BW_Hummer H3
Well-Known Member
- Messages
- 1,090
- Location
- Texas
What wheels are on your truck? Those are sharp.
Method Race Wheels
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What wheels are on your truck? Those are sharp.
I like them mesh inserts. I made some for mine about a year agoNew shoes - Cooper Discoverer STT Pro's
View attachment 23907
Installed the Daystar Body Lift! Pretty easy weekend project to do.
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Removed the chrome side trim today
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Looks good, and I like the photoshop skills![]()
Some tube doors with safari nets. Still needs some work to install the front of the rear fender and also tighten up the nets. Been driving with just the tube doors for a few weeks and been loving it.
Ordered a JL sub and sub box that I think might work in a T with a little massaging and not take up a rear footwell like the current setup. Upgrading the audio has been kind of low on the priority list. Hoping I can fit something under the seat that sounds decent, has enough airspace for the sub, and is out of the way in otherwise useless space. Figured while I have it all apart to move the amp I will throw some sound deadener on the rear wall and doors. I was never really sold on sound deadener until I helped a buddy do an H2, If it wasn't for the headers you would think you were riding in a coffin.
have you replaced your door speakers? i think mine in the t are starting to go
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Looking really good! Just throwing out an idea here, but another modification you could do is to add rear door fender flare panels like on the orginal orginal door.
Long time ago. Polk components in the front, 6x9 in the rear. The stock paper speakers are junk.
did you put a sub in the truck? i have an older pioneer headunit and thinking about replacing everything with newer stuff and adding a small sub
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I tried my best to fit a box with a slim mount sub under the rear seat of my T. Unfortunately, even doing a custom box with a fiberglass bottom in order to get the correct volume, the seat would still contact the sub if someone sat on the back seat. So I ended up scrapping that idea, and went with a JL Power Wedge. That way I can take out, or move around if I needed the space.Ordered a JL sub and sub box that I think might work in a T with a little massaging and not take up a rear footwell like the current setup. Upgrading the audio has been kind of low on the priority list. Hoping I can fit something under the seat that sounds decent, has enough airspace for the sub, and is out of the way in otherwise useless space. Figured while I have it all apart to move the amp I will throw some sound deadener on the rear wall and doors. I was never really sold on sound deadener until I helped a buddy do an H2, If it wasn't for the headers you would think you were riding in a coffin.
I tried my best to fit a box with a slim mount sub under the rear seat of my T. Unfortunately, even doing a custom box with a fiberglass bottom in order to get the correct volume, the seat would still contact the sub if someone sat on the back seat. So I ended up scrapping that idea, and went with a JL Power Wedge. That way I can take out, or move around if I needed the space.
I also put Dynomat Extreme on the floorboards, back panel, inner and outer door panels and ceiling. Also added DynoPad to the floor, ceiling and door panels for 50% more noise reduction. Along with new door seals and vents in the back panel, it was a great investment for the new sound system i added. Drastically cut down on the road noise and improved sound quality.
Since I have no plans of getting rid of my T anytime soon, I figured do it right with the sound deadening and sound reduction from the get go.
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Yeah. Chuck a stick of this in a lathe and make whatever thickness you need. The stuff cuts like butta...any shop with a lathe can make em in 45 minutes. If you make em thicker, you’ll need longer body bolts...prolly 14mm.