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What did you do with your H3 recently? NEW

Portager

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Messages
1,506
Location
Silverado
I installed a PCM/TCM tune/swap to compensate for the 35" wheels and I'm very satisfied. I figured that since I have the Alpha (V8) I had enough power to handel the oversized wheels, but the engine would bog down before the transmission would shift and when I tow my camping trailer it is even worse. The PCM/TCM tune completely restored the drivability. I also installed an electric trailer brake controller. Happy camper! :)

P.S. We have also been working on our Adrenalin Camper. We installed a Propex HS2211 propane heater under the trailer where it doesn't take any space and it is tucked inside the frame so it doesn't reduce ground clearance. We added a secondary water pump and water/propane plumbing for an external Camp Chef tankless water heater. Then we replaced the tongue support jack with the Trailer Valet which has a chain drive and a hand crank which helps move the trailer and makes connecting the coupling pins infinitely easier. Also upgrades the battery onboard to an 80 AH Lifeline GPL-24T AGM battery.
 
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gfbh3t

Well-Known Member
Messages
140
Location
Lockport, NY
IMG_1258.jpgIMG_1263.jpgChanged wheel bearings, greased big red up, waxed it for the very first time. Now loaded up and heading to Windrock.
 

awalsh

Well-Known Member
Messages
349
Location
New Jersey
Actually, replacing CVs is pretty straightforward. The hubs would have been easy as well except that mine were seized by rust in the knuckles. I soaked them with PB Blaster and beat the holy crap out of them and they did not move so I removed the knuckles. My buddy has a press in the shop where he works and I took him the knuckles with hubs still in them. He said it gave the press a work out for sure.LOL Amazingly, the dust shields were both intact and I re-installed them with the new hubs. I highly suggest that if you are going to replace the CVs, obviously do both sides and re-torque the new axle nuts TO SPEC. Many shops ( and youtube videos) will use the air impact to tighten the axle nuts. This is a sure-fire way to a premature death of your hubs. Put on your man pants, grab a torque wrench and torque them the correct way to spec. LOL
The next project will be removing and replacing the front diff bushing.

H3 wolf- Just a side note you don't have to remove the hubs to replace the cvs, it's a pita without doing it but mine were also frozen to the knuckle so I did without. Either way was still a simple job


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H3Wolf

Well-Known Member
Messages
192
Location
United States
H3 wolf- Just a side note you don't have to remove the hubs to replace the cvs, it's a pita without doing it but mine were also frozen to the knuckle so I did without. Either way was still a simple job


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I was going to do it this weekend.hopefully I don't get called into work.

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H3Wolf

Well-Known Member
Messages
192
Location
United States
Interesting, I'm just now getting close to 120k miles and starting noticing this noise as of the last week. Thinking something up with the trans since it only happens at low speeds near a shift. No hard shifting or anything, just vibration and grinding. Any similar sounds from yours? link (might need to turn volume up): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RmLOKSNkPZY&feature=youtu.be
Have you figured it out, mine just started making this noise around 30mph coasting and sometimes 30 with the foot on the pedal slightly.

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rascole

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,843
Location
Bellflower, CA
If you are referring about the sound at :02 and :03, that sounds like a heat shield vibrating. I had the same and I either tighten the bolts or put another bend by hand in it to make it rigid.
 

H3Wolf

Well-Known Member
Messages
192
Location
United States
If you are referring about the sound at :02 and :03, that sounds like a heat shield vibrating. I had the same and I either tighten the bolts or put another bend by hand in it to make it rigid.
The one that you took a video of

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650Hawk

Well-Known Member
Messages
546
Location
SoCal
Got a call from a neighbor/family friend that had gone out and rolled their Jeep Cherokee. Had to drag it around, then flip it back onto it's wheels, then get it turned back up the road. Finally, towed it about 5 miles back out to the pavement.:cool:2a.jpg3a.jpg4a.jpg6a.jpg
 

awalsh

Well-Known Member
Messages
349
Location
New Jersey
Have you figured it out, mine just started making this noise around 30mph coasting and sometimes 30 with the foot on the pedal slightly.

Sent from my Moto Z (2) using Tapatalk

Just found out the hard way that this noise is a bad cat in the exhaust manifold. I have 0 heat shields left and my h3 has been making this same noise for a good bit of time, check engine finally popped on and cat code completed my suspicions


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H3Wolf

Well-Known Member
Messages
192
Location
United States
Just found out the hard way that this noise is a bad cat in the exhaust manifold. I have 0 heat shields left and my h3 has been making this same noise for a good bit of time, check engine finally popped on and cat code completed my suspicions


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Damn, well I guess I'll be getting a new one when it goes out. Hopefully it's not too expensive

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lowtrac

Well-Known Member
Messages
222
Location
Georgia
If you are referring about the sound at :02 and :03, that sounds like a heat shield vibrating. I had the same and I either tighten the bolts or put another bend by hand in it to make it rigid.

Which heat shield? Mine is making a similar sound sometimes. I am getting a cat code, I think P0420. It does sound like a heat shield to me, but sounds like it's coming from under the driver's side floor.


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rascole

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,843
Location
Bellflower, CA
Rear diff breather.

I have several small projects going on now with my 3. I pulled off half the top plastic trim to repaint to match the other side. In doing so I decided the void behind the right rear brake light is a good place to run the rear diff breather. During my last service the breather was plugged solid with mud so this should keep it clean with easy access.

20180512_114947 (622x1280).jpg
 

awalsh

Well-Known Member
Messages
349
Location
New Jersey
Damn, well I guess I'll be getting a new one when it goes out. Hopefully it's not too expensive

Sent from my Moto Z (2) using Tapatalk

Oem is $800 for a new manifold but you can get other options with 50k warrants for around $300, I'm just going to buy the spacers for the o2 sensors to complete inspection.. Nothing is "wrong" with having a bad cat other than the ratting noise, as long as yours isn't leaking


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H3Wolf

Well-Known Member
Messages
192
Location
United States
Oem is $800 for a new manifold but you can get other options with 50k warrants for around $300, I'm just going to buy the spacers for the o2 sensors to complete inspection.. Nothing is "wrong" with having a bad cat other than the ratting noise, as long as yours isn't leaking


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It's not, however I think I'll just replace the cat with a piece of exhaust and get some o2 sensor diod adapters to fake the computer into thinking it has one.

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Korby7

Well-Known Member
Messages
434
Location
Utah
Had a fun first run with the Alpha. Hells Revenge, Dome Plateau, and Fins & Things. Felt a bit more confident this year with the additional front locker, disconnected front sway bar, added clearance with the 35s and thanks Schwarttzy for the skid plates. I used them plenty and can’t imagine the amount of damage that I would’ve done without them. Also had my new sliders but didn’t need to use them. Only casualty was the rear license plate. I can live with that.
2A30D99F-B25A-40D0-AEB3-5D7AF2C6C3C0.jpeg
 
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