High Five H2
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- West Texas
why the xterra steering box?
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Squeaky SAS thread
- Thread starter 06 H3
- Start date
4speedfunk
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- Tardville
Looks great. Make sure to test fit your wheels several times as you proceed and remember...TACK ONLY until you know for sure that all is good. It would suck hard to discover your tires rub after you burned everything in permanently.
Btw-That plumb line doesn't do much if your truck (and driveway) is not level. All the same...love to see a DIY job in a driveway...at night...with a shop light. Hell yes! That's what it's all about. Keep up the good work.
Btw-That plumb line doesn't do much if your truck (and driveway) is not level. All the same...love to see a DIY job in a driveway...at night...with a shop light. Hell yes! That's what it's all about. Keep up the good work.
SuperBuickGuy
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- Woodinville, WA
excellent work
how much travel do you expect?
how much travel do you expect?
06 H3
a.k.a. "The Jackal"
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- 9,505
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- Meridian, ID
14in travel shocks I have right now...who knows if they will work lol
CJ, the plumb line is not linear Lol basically when the h3 hub is at 26.5 that is when it's stock wheelbase. Then it gets shorter. The difference is minimal and the Johnny joints have about 5in of adjustability. Which "pocket" does your axle end upper link mount fit in? Can I see a picture of it?
I have tacked everything. I will then tack the buckets and everything else then go to town welding when it's all done.
CJ, the plumb line is not linear Lol basically when the h3 hub is at 26.5 that is when it's stock wheelbase. Then it gets shorter. The difference is minimal and the Johnny joints have about 5in of adjustability. Which "pocket" does your axle end upper link mount fit in? Can I see a picture of it?
I have tacked everything. I will then tack the buckets and everything else then go to town welding when it's all done.
05Mudiak
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- Lake Charles, LA
I am taking notes. One day hopefully sooner than later. Just got done with my second foot surgery.
4speedfunk
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- Tardville
Not sure what you mean by "pocket". I'm on the top hole of the upper link-tower. I'm on the middle hole of the upper link frame bracket (if you have an adjustable one).
zackcrum
Well-Known Member
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- 543
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- Corinth MS
Maybe where is fits between the engine and frame?
06 H3
a.k.a. "The Jackal"
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The "pocket" between the motor mount and frame
zackcrum
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- 543
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- Corinth MS
Yea I saw that on the YouTube videos cj made.
4speedfunk
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Oh I get it. Yeah...the pocket between the engine and the frame. Uh...its between the engine and the frame. :wink:
Once you get the axle under the truck...you'll see there is really only one place to put the upper tower, so it makes your choices very easy. It must lean back about 12 degrees or so, and there is not much room on either side of it. There is a clear alley from the tower rearwards, to the crossmember. This is where the upper link must go. It runs at an angle and connects to the inboard face of the drivers-side frame rail. You'll have to re-work the brake lines in this area as well. The link is a tight fit and when you see it in place, you'll realize why nobody does a 4-link on the H3! There just isn't room on the passenger side for another upper link. Before you tack the tower in place...make sure you have your axle exactly where you want it, and also make sure your caster angle (4-6 degrees) and pinion angle (whatever) is set to your liking. Center the tower bracket in the "pocket" and tack it to the tube. Then you can install all three links...install your track bar...cycle the suspension up and down...and make sure the tower stays within the pocket. You should also check the track-bar travel and make sure it doesn't hit the diff cover or oil pan. Bolt the tires on and do some "lock-to-lock" checking during the articulation. Its easier to check all this stuff before you install the coil springs or shocks.
You have longer links than me, and they will connect to the frame further back than mine. Because of this, you may have to put a bend in the upper link. I'm sure it will be very close to the frame rail. Afterwards...you will be able to make slight adjustments to the wheelbase and caster angle but, you'll be limited unless you want to cut this tower loose and re-weld it. I know there seems to be a bunch of emphasis on travel and articulation but, the more travel you want...the more space you're going to need around all this stuff. In all honesty...the SAS-H3 is an absolute beast even with very little travel. My next one will be even lower, stiffer, with less travel, and smaller tires.
Once you get the axle under the truck...you'll see there is really only one place to put the upper tower, so it makes your choices very easy. It must lean back about 12 degrees or so, and there is not much room on either side of it. There is a clear alley from the tower rearwards, to the crossmember. This is where the upper link must go. It runs at an angle and connects to the inboard face of the drivers-side frame rail. You'll have to re-work the brake lines in this area as well. The link is a tight fit and when you see it in place, you'll realize why nobody does a 4-link on the H3! There just isn't room on the passenger side for another upper link. Before you tack the tower in place...make sure you have your axle exactly where you want it, and also make sure your caster angle (4-6 degrees) and pinion angle (whatever) is set to your liking. Center the tower bracket in the "pocket" and tack it to the tube. Then you can install all three links...install your track bar...cycle the suspension up and down...and make sure the tower stays within the pocket. You should also check the track-bar travel and make sure it doesn't hit the diff cover or oil pan. Bolt the tires on and do some "lock-to-lock" checking during the articulation. Its easier to check all this stuff before you install the coil springs or shocks.
You have longer links than me, and they will connect to the frame further back than mine. Because of this, you may have to put a bend in the upper link. I'm sure it will be very close to the frame rail. Afterwards...you will be able to make slight adjustments to the wheelbase and caster angle but, you'll be limited unless you want to cut this tower loose and re-weld it. I know there seems to be a bunch of emphasis on travel and articulation but, the more travel you want...the more space you're going to need around all this stuff. In all honesty...the SAS-H3 is an absolute beast even with very little travel. My next one will be even lower, stiffer, with less travel, and smaller tires.
06 H3
a.k.a. "The Jackal"
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- Meridian, ID
There are two pockets. One before the motor mount and one behind. I assume the one behind because if it was in front the link mount would the motor Mount? I can get a pic if necessary
zackcrum
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- 543
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- Corinth MS
06h3 and Cj can for sure answer this better but I believe it was chosen because the way it's made lets it mount far forward and the bulk of it stays above the frail rail. Plus it has the power to turn the tires and it can bolt to the stock steering shaft with minimal altercation.
06 H3
a.k.a. "The Jackal"
- Messages
- 9,505
- Location
- Meridian, ID
06 H3
a.k.a. "The Jackal"
- Messages
- 9,505
- Location
- Meridian, ID
Lol I was talking to my parents and they are shocked how much work it takes but have been supportive
Panzer07
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- Ontario, CA
Out of topic here.
But I just wanted to give a big Tank You to Chris, for his willingness to leave what he was doing and come to my aid, without even asking, due to the fact that my 3 was giving me some problems on my way back from Bakersfield. Fortunately I was able to get a hold of one of my wife's friends who lives closer to where I was, and was able to keep driving.
Anyways many thanks chris, and it is good to know we got each other's back. :thumbs:
But I just wanted to give a big Tank You to Chris, for his willingness to leave what he was doing and come to my aid, without even asking, due to the fact that my 3 was giving me some problems on my way back from Bakersfield. Fortunately I was able to get a hold of one of my wife's friends who lives closer to where I was, and was able to keep driving.
Anyways many thanks chris, and it is good to know we got each other's back. :thumbs:
Woodtick
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- Ilanoid, UP MI
I bet this young mans parents are proud. This is a major mod and takes a lot of skill and engineering . I hope you end up in a mag,to help inspire other folks that it can be done. Doing it in your parents driveway makes it that more impressive. Great Job!!!!
06 H3
a.k.a. "The Jackal"
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My parents are proud. I think the drive to continue while the end goal is so far out is what they find most amazing. Same with my neighbors, the guy neighbors...lol when you sit there with bare framerails and you have so much **** to do it's very easy to get overwhelmed. For 4 days my neighbors would drive by and from what they saw it was no progress. It was one step forward 2 back the whole time. Frustrating as hell. The swap isn't that bad but the crossmember was hell for me. I couldn't of done it without my buddy.
Also taking little steps to make it better. For example, last night, I had it at full compression. The upper link mount hits the motor mount. Instead of stopping there and saying ok this is where my uptravel will end Instead this morning I will move and angle the mount back a tad to miss the motor mount and trim the top. Every little bit counts.
Lastly 4speedfunk is a huge help. Plenty of FaceTime, texting and emails going back and forth. One day I just about had it. I felt stumped...to be honest I would of been quite fine rolling up in a ball in the driveway to cry. He
told me it's just metal, with a grinder and welder you can fix any problem...make the metal your bitch, that's why I am making this thread. So I can share my problems to help anyone else and to lower his phone bill lol.
When I facetimed him on Friday night there's a reason he said he was happier to be sitting in the yard with his wife and dog having a cigar and a drink compared to being under a truck on a Friday night. It is a lot of work!
Lastly no prob Torres! Glad you stopped by. Any 4wheeler sitting at the top of Frazier with no trans fluid I would make the drive in a second. Your wife's friend was closer and made it but if not I would of gone. Panzers camo paint looks awesome. I couldn't see the whole thing seeing it was covered in mud but from what I saw it was awesome. He also picked up some parts. He now has spare tie rods, halfshafts and the steering rack brace that I used to run. Great thing to have when your pushing your truck. My steering was **** free with it.
Also taking little steps to make it better. For example, last night, I had it at full compression. The upper link mount hits the motor mount. Instead of stopping there and saying ok this is where my uptravel will end Instead this morning I will move and angle the mount back a tad to miss the motor mount and trim the top. Every little bit counts.
Lastly 4speedfunk is a huge help. Plenty of FaceTime, texting and emails going back and forth. One day I just about had it. I felt stumped...to be honest I would of been quite fine rolling up in a ball in the driveway to cry. He
told me it's just metal, with a grinder and welder you can fix any problem...make the metal your bitch, that's why I am making this thread. So I can share my problems to help anyone else and to lower his phone bill lol.
When I facetimed him on Friday night there's a reason he said he was happier to be sitting in the yard with his wife and dog having a cigar and a drink compared to being under a truck on a Friday night. It is a lot of work!
Lastly no prob Torres! Glad you stopped by. Any 4wheeler sitting at the top of Frazier with no trans fluid I would make the drive in a second. Your wife's friend was closer and made it but if not I would of gone. Panzers camo paint looks awesome. I couldn't see the whole thing seeing it was covered in mud but from what I saw it was awesome. He also picked up some parts. He now has spare tie rods, halfshafts and the steering rack brace that I used to run. Great thing to have when your pushing your truck. My steering was **** free with it.
cbetts
NERD!!!
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And others like myself would not benefit in reaping in all of your discarded parts! :champ:
06 H3
a.k.a. "The Jackal"
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- Meridian, ID
4speed is the dude who made it possible. I am just documenting it and following his instructions while changing things here and there to experiment.
06 H3
a.k.a. "The Jackal"
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- 9,505
- Location
- Meridian, ID
Just about got everything done today minus the track bar. Decisions decisions on that one. I can make the track bar short which is less then ideal and make high steer work. I can make the track bar like 4speedfunk did and high steer wont work. I am shooting for 4-5in of uptravel with staying under 5.5in of lift (would like 27 hub to fender, stock is 22.5) CJ is 28 hub to fender. Things I have done to aim for that uptravel and low ride height. I moved the upper link mount inboard a tad bit more and angled it back a tad more. Pitman arm, I will try to see if I can flip it, AM4x4 said most have tapers in them on the splined side but if I can just take it off flip it and put it back on. That would have it swing just under the framerail and give more clearance. Other then that I would have to work on the drag link and track bar from hitting the pass side framerail. Does that mean notching the frame? I would rather not it seems intimidating. lol
So now I am going to dinner but basically I am all done minus the track bar. Then I have a days worth of welding everything that is all tacked. drop it on the ground then screw with brakelines, regearing the rear to match the front and steering box line adapters. :cheers:
ill get pics later.
So now I am going to dinner but basically I am all done minus the track bar. Then I have a days worth of welding everything that is all tacked. drop it on the ground then screw with brakelines, regearing the rear to match the front and steering box line adapters. :cheers:
ill get pics later.