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35x12.50r20 Cooper STT Pros. 20x10s -19 lots of rubbing on full lock going in reverse. may need a 1.25" body lift

Man, I'm jealous on those headlights.

new AC Delco CV joints at $200 per is a good deal. Not to mention who knows how long they'll be still available. Good to have a spare.

Trans was rebuilt about 30k miles ago. No, it's not slipping. I'd know that for sure. Changed its fluid anyways and all looked fine.

Not sure on a T, but one needs to remove the seat belt upper mount, and a screw behind a round cover. I just pulled it enough for me to get to the drain plug w/my hands; didn't remove the whole panel.

Always a decision to go with NEW or rebuild what you got. IMHO, if the cosmetics and interior and electrical is PRIMO, but just needs mechanical bits replaced, probably is better to just rebuild. You buy a $60k SUV, and right when you drive off the showroom floor, you've already lost $5k. And...

https://www.hidprojectors.com/products/05-10-hummer-h3-headlights-with-monster-shrouds $$$

Thanks. No codes. I guess I'll try some fuel treatments. Temps are normal. Right below the middle line. Hmm...

So I bought this H3 with a rebuilt engine. Seems going up hill, it just doesn't seem to have the beans I would expect it to have. At 167k miles, with 30k on the engine, do you think maybe my cats are clogged? Or all H3 Alphas seems kinda....slow-ish?

Probably a switch.

glovebox light? I know, I had to retrofit a light for the glovebox, but maybe it's something offered on Colorados, but not Hummers. Did you put a test light on it? Always on? Only on ACC? Run position?

Amen. I don't know why Hummer forums are so anal about this. I belong to about 20 different forums and only the Hummer forums are nazis about old thread bumping.

I don't understand. Did GM replace the shift fork on 2008 or later H3s? Or were ALL 2006-2010 use plastic forks?

Besides Dorman, why not get this??? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IU576OO/?coliid=I39YV7HMDMZGHV&colid=2MPX7N1NBJQ9G&psc=1&ref_=list_c_wl_lv_ov_lig_dp_it

If it's stuck in 4H Lock, you can ruin your whole Txfer case if you drive it on hard pavement for long. Get it checked out ASAP. You may need as aforementioned, another one of these...

Switch it back and forth between 4HI and 4HI Lock to see if you can hear anything or feel anything changing.

only kit now available still: https://whipplesuperchargers.com/i-2053-gm-gmc-chevy-2007-2014-5-3l-truck-suv-supercharger-intercooled-complete-kit-w140ax-2-3l-wk-1111.html?fitment=2009%7CHummer%7CH3%7CAlpha

$3500 is standard rate. Hope that includes a torque converter. If possible, have them install heavy duty parts on it while they're in there. Maybe ante up for a 6L80E from True Blue: https://truebluemotorsport.com/%24hop/ols/products/2006-2011-gmt365-i5-v8-h3

Interesting is from a standing stop, and I accelerate rather briskly; no thump. And if I'm going >40mph, and I accelerate, hardly if at all, noticeable. It's most noticeable at 15-20 mph then hitting the gas. Front driveshaft doesn't look OEM, but who knows? Could be a POS causing this issue.

I don't understand. If the rear end is "loose," then you should be able to line everything up when jacking up the diff. I.e. push the diff forwards towards the front of the truck to line up w/the dowels.