beautiful rig and super rare.
2009 best year (doesn't have that VVT crap)
I would have sprung for an H3T like this if it could fit in my garage.
Good luck and decent price!
I have a feeling all they do is take aftermarket housings, split the cover off headlight part, and splice in a new headlight and "seal" it back in. Probably for a $1k profit.
Pulled vacuum.
Let it sit overnight. Held.
Charged it until got about 26psi on cold, about 155psi on hot side.
Air is cold.
Next day...hot air, no pressure on either.
How do I have such a huge leak, but able to hold vacuum????
I had dye in the freon, but seems there's fluorescent dye...
Putting in a used rear end is a big gamble.
I can't imagine it being THAT expensive to rebuild. Hopefully just needs new seals and bearings. No gears or locker (if you have one) replacement hopefully.
Right, but I can't find anyone who has run that.
So for a bit more money, getting one exactly built like from this thread:
https://hummer4x4offroad.com/forum/threads/everything-you-wanted-to-know-about-h3-front-driveshafts-and-more.13068/page-2
is that a total of 29.5" collapsed WITH the adapter?
Also, what size of tubing (diameter and thickness) do you recommend?
Is it balanced with EVERYTHING on it? Including the adapter?
Going to be an expensive driveshaft. $700 in parts alone (not including the metal tubing) plus labor for...
OK, so found the issue.
Removed the front driveshaft. twisted the cv joint and rest of the driveshaft in my hand. can definitely feel/hear a click.
Drove the rig without it. NO CLUNK!
Guess I'll be buying all the Spicer parts to build a double cardone driveshaft and have one made.
PO put on Ranch RS5000 shocks on the rear and I think they suck.
Way too stiff; any bumps in the road, my rig wants to bounce around and go sideways seems like.
I put on OME on the front and they seem OK. Tried to order OMEs for the rear; all out of stock.
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