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What did you do with your H3 recently? NEW

Romeo

Well-Known Member
Messages
166
Location
New York City
What year are those from Romeo?
I just did my spark plugs and your coil packs look totally different from mine. Or are those from the V8 and you just happened to only show 5 of them to confuse me? :)

My truck is a 2006. I ordered these coil packs from Amazon which I thought were a great deal since they also come with lifetime warranty with proof of purchase
Pack of 6 Ignition Coils for Chevy Chevrolet GMC Isuzu Olds Saab Compatible with UF303 C1395 UF-303 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00M07GQO0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_uglpybB8JQ2Z3

And these are the spark plugs
ACDelco 41-103 Professional Iridium Spark Plug (6 Pack) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01JQ2L5DS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_SjlpybA2VQNYQ


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Romeo

Well-Known Member
Messages
166
Location
New York City
Romeo...thanks for posting those pics. I work on H3's quite a bit, and I've found this same issue on nearly all of em. As soon as someone complains of a rough idle or gets a random misfire code...I automatically look at the coil paks first. I believe this problem is amplified by the holes in the hood (for the goofy fake louver thing), so I removed mine a long time ago and came up with a really beautiful and high-tech fix.

I put electrical tape over the holes, so rain water won't collect and get funneled directly onto the top of the motor (and into the plug wells). Recently my electrical tape has curled up, so I need to either fix it properly by welding the holes shut, or apply some new electrical tape! The last patch was good for 2-1/2 years.

LOL, yea the clip from the top portion of my louvre all broke away from the louvre. I need to gorilla glue the suckers back and also silicone around the clips to hopefully prevent water coming in.


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amrg

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,317
Location
Qatar
Quick update on the griffin double row radiator:

On the highway (70 mph) with 86* ambient, the truck will run @ 180*

I have a huge trans cooler blocking 1/3 of the radiator and running a 3200 stall TQ putting more heat than stock setup.
I have to say never seen the temp gauge on the alpha drop to 1/4.
 

Shrubf4

Well-Known Member
Messages
101
Location
Central Texas
Hey Shrubf4,

I just put a new set of 315/71r16 Courser MSTs on my stock H3 wheels. Pick a tire that suites your style of driving and if you're worried about mileage stick with the stock tires. I chose the MXTs mainly because I live in the woods and hate being stuck anywhere due to poor roads. So to put 35s on I only cranked the t-bars 2 complete turns and had enough space for the tires to clear when the frame contacted the bump stop.
Schwarttzy has an excellent lay out for t-bar cranking and an in depth of how to here: http://schwarttzy.com/lifting-the-h3-hummer/
Hope this helps.

Thanks man!
I decided to play things safe this set and went 295/75/r16's. I can still do the lift as well as daily it.
I'll be using that how-to though.
 

High Five H2

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,627
Location
West Texas
I finally got my ECU reprogrammed for 35s. I've been driving it like that for at least 6 months. What a pain - constant gear hunting on the highway, no power, etc. It feels closer to stock now. I guess the older 4 speed H2s have about the same setup that I have now. Same differential ratio, transmission, and tires so it will work. Fuel economy seems to be pretty bad, but I hear that it takes a few miles before the ECU adjusts. Also, they way they reprogrammed it, my speedo shows that I'm going 6-7% faster than I really am. I compared with my GPS and my brother's. Kind of disappointed, but I can live with it.

Here pretty soon I'm going to redo my retrofits. you may remember (although I hope not) that I used RHD projectors because I am stupid.
 

chaos254

Well-Known Member
Messages
577
Location
United States
51f70b2f528154ace2f38a49074ff8e9.jpg


Finally got my bilsteins installed. 103k on the stock shocks so it was definitely needed.

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USMC_TOP

Well-Known Member
Messages
491
Location
Muir Michigan
Fuel pump rusted out on top and started leaking fuel, bad. Took it in to be replaced and my mechanic noticed a rear axel seal leaking. Then he noticed a front axel seal leaking, then he noticed my front diff bushing was shot, then he checked out a cel that was a cam sensor. $1,200 bucks worth of repairs being done tomorrow. 2 weeks ago I just dumped $1,700 into a new t case and still need new tires for winter. Anything else little h3? Dammm


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chaos254

Well-Known Member
Messages
577
Location
United States
Fuel pump rusted out on top and started leaking fuel, bad. Took it in to be replaced and my mechanic noticed a rear axel seal leaking. Then he noticed a front axel seal leaking, then he noticed my front diff bushing was shot, then he checked out a cel that was a cam sensor. $1,200 bucks worth of repairs being done tomorrow. 2 weeks ago I just dumped $1,700 into a new t case and still need new tires for winter. Anything else little h3? Dammm


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That sucks. I've noticed mine has a fuel smell when I stop and turn the truck off. Can't smell anything while driving but I was worried mine was rusted at the top as well. Can't see any leaks from undernesth

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3rdH3

Well-Known Member
Messages
218
Location
Blacksburg, VA
GMPP Major Guard is replacing both front Bump Stops and the 2 Rear Speed Sensors. They are leaking gear oil where the enter the axle.
 

USMC_TOP

Well-Known Member
Messages
491
Location
Muir Michigan
That sucks. I've noticed mine has a fuel smell when I stop and turn the truck off. Can't smell anything while driving but I was worried mine was rusted at the top as well. Can't see any leaks from undernesth

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That's how mine started, a slight fuel smell that I thought was the cel issue


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4speedfunk

Well-Known Member
Messages
4,250
Location
Tardville
Weeping rear speed sensors is common. NAPA sells some o-rings that fit slightly tighter than the stock ones. Ten cents each...two minutes to change.


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Kyle

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,707
Location
Santa Clarita, CA
ada804f15022c96d5ddd570c00c03627.jpg
Wired up some Led Pods to the reverse lights, helps with backing up a ton! Also got some rigid industries light bars for the roof, I'll be posting pics once I finish that install!


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GreatDaneHummer

Well-Known Member
Messages
994
Location
Chicago
After dropping off the wife at work early morning on Sunday a Jeep Grand Cherokee crossed the center line after the guy fell sleep and hit me. Only traveling about 25 mph at the time of the hit the H3 fared pretty well. The front bumper/plastic crap, the hood etc messed up. My nice pretty CSF radiator is dead, air bags gone off. Frame looks to be unbent (to the best you can see from just a visual look). I have a sore shoulder in a sling. The Jeep you might ask? Totaled and the guy is in the hospital. These H3's are pretty tough cookies.
 

JPaul

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,436
Location
Way up north, UT
I think that is the difference between having a full frame and having a unibody. I think you're almost always going to total a unibody, and having a full frame allows you to resist impacts better, thought you might be a bit more sore due to the energy transfer.

Glad you're OK.

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GreatDaneHummer

Well-Known Member
Messages
994
Location
Chicago
I am sore but after getting checked out at the hospital and just having my arm in a sling to help my shoulder heal after the seat belt a good bottle of whiskey has made all things right in the world again. Crown hold the Coke.
 
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