Rear quick disconnects

[SuperBuickGuy]

The H3T's seam to have issue with breaking the rear anti-sway bar linkage on extreme terrain. I've never heard of an H3 breaking one. This is probably magnified on my truck because I'm carrying more weight that most due to the weight of the SlantBack and the cargo slide. I've broken 4 linkages and the dealer wants around $115 to replace the next one. I'd rather pay $175 for one I can disconnect when I go offroad and void breaking another one.

I have broken the one on the rear driver-side. Snapped and popped right off at the joints while doing some rock crawling and wheeling over some extreme Sonoran desert terrain. Replaced them both with OEMs. Looks like they just get weak and tired and break.

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I wonder if the fundamental cause is soft, leaf springs. I always felt the H3 wallows at speed (I've owned 2), I just put in an add-a-leaf in my spring pack and my review of that mod is it changes the vehicle into a much better driving rig.

So basically, in your cases, there's too much drop in the spring and the first "limiter" is the sway bar - sounds like a great case for a disconnect. What shocks are you using? I'm really starting to dislike the ranchos because they aren't long enough; but they do limit drop :roll:

 

[954paulo]

Just curious, why disconnect the rear at all? I disco'd the front, but the rear reached full flex (had extensions, shackles & 5100's) with the rear swaybar in easily. The front is the one that is MUCH stiffer, and limits travel significantly.

I disconnected the rear once, but honestly it made very little difference aside from smaller higher speed stuff... it smoothed that stuff out a little better.

What did you use on the front? Your not worried about breaking a shaft?



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[Portager]

I wonder if the fundamental cause is soft, leaf springs. I always felt the H3 wallows at speed (I've owned 2), I just put in an add-a-leaf in my spring pack and my review of that mod is it changes the vehicle into a much better driving rig.

So basically, in your cases, there's too much drop in the spring and the first "limiter" is the sway bar - sounds like a great case for a disconnect. What shocks are you using? I'm really starting to dislike the ranchos because they aren't long enough; but they do limit drop :roll:

Could be. I think that due to the weight I'm carrying I should consider stiffer leaf springs. I'm still running the stock Tomp low profile shock mounts, which effectively give additional downward travel,but reduced upward travel.

 

[Portager]

It's devilishly hard to diagnose the issue with your truck from Seattle.

backing up just a bit, you say you broke the links - what broke? how?

My truck isn't from Seattle. I'm in SoCal.

I've broken the linkage rock crawling where one wheel is up and one down. They always break at the lower joint with a loud bang, so you know the exact spot that caused it.

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[SuperBuickGuy]

soft springs could also cause the wandering at speed

 

[06 H3]

soft springs could also cause the wandering at speed

That may be true. Believe it or not h3t springs are softer then H3 springs. 4speedfunk found this out when testing out different springs after his SAS/SOA Brand new never used T springs were sagging more then his used and abused H3 springs. It's probably due to little amounts of weight in the back bed of the T but it seems like portager would benefit more from an H3 spring with the cargo slide and snug top. Even then I am not sure how much firmer the 3 spring will be. Bebes mod with the Chevy 2500 spring in between the spring back would be best or air bags with a daystar cradle to avoid limiting down travel.

 

[Portager]

I went to place my order for the JKS Manufacturing part # 3100 and I noticed that they said they gave priority to orders placed through authorized distributors. So I checked Amazon and I got it for $156.80 with free shipping.

Once I receive mine I'll post an install thread. I got the one for a 0" to 3.5" lift, so hoping I don't have to mod it.

 

[backcountryislife]

What did you use on the front? Your not worried about breaking a shaft?



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I just unbolted them... didn't have quick discos. I wheel a LOT (most trails I run are a couple min from my house, and when i had the 3 I was wheeling 3-4 days a week getting to know more & more of the trails that connected the two counties from my house) so I only re-connected them to go to the chity (Denver) or to head to Moab.
I broke a few steering racks, but never a shaft. I'm not the type to spin my way up stuff though... IMO that's a big factor in shafts.
SBG,

I understand the idea of why to disconnect the rear, I should have phrased differently, why disconnect the rear, when it already is so soft. The front is so much stiffer that in comparison, the rear might as well not even be there. The rear will reach full flex without pushing the swaybar at all... where the front can have all the weight of the truck on one side, and it barely flexes. Remove the front, and you gain about 10" or more of flex.

 

[06 H3]

I wheeled disconnected front and rear for almost a year now and it makes a HUGE difference off road.

 

[RamRod]

I wheeled disconnected front and rear for almost a year now and it makes a HUGE difference off road.

Do you just unbolt the front sway bar or have you made quick disconnects for the front too?

 

[06 H3]

I made front discos, I think I have a thread on it.

Cheap and easy. I did lose a pin on the trail so I need to go back and buy some spares so last time I bolted and unbolted them when airing down with 2 adjustable wrenches.

 

[954paulo]

I made front discos, I think I have a thread on it.

Cheap and easy. I did lose a pin on the trail so I need to go back and buy some spares so last time I bolted and unbolted them when airing down with 2 adjustable wrenches.

Can you link up to your thread on this?


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[digglesworth]

One thing to consider is 06H3 has a Rancho.... The links are longer aren't they? Although the concept remains the same. You'll have to find links that are the right length before you mod em. I wanna do this for the front for sure. I may do it for the rear too if I do ext shackles and leaf mounts just to be sure not to break anything and put it back together for the street.

 

[poncho1965]

Would the JKS parts Portager ordered work on the front?


Mike

 

[06 H3]

No one has tried it yet mike. I'll look into it

 

[Portager]

When I get mine I look and see if they would work in the front.

 

[backcountryislife]

Keep in mind that running longer links isn't the end of the world either.

If you run the "right" length links on a rubi... they turn into nice little S shaped pieces of metal... real cute like! You have to run them longer on the rubi so they don't over extend (center disconnect means they stay connected) I've run my swaybar "flat" like it's supposed to be, and now angled up... can't feel any difference.

Chris, you're saying you felt an improvement being disconnected in back after disconnecting the front? I found that with the rear disconnected, the torsion springs were so much stiffer than the leafs that the front overpowered the rear keeping the front almost level, BUT if I disconnected front, and left rear connected, it was much more balanced.

Obviously with the rancho setup & SOA it's never going to be apples to apples, but I find it interesting to see what you found compared to me, as I know you go about things the same way I do, lots of testing different options with a little less deference for the status quo than average. For me it was definitely a decrease in performance disconnecting the rear.

 

[06 H3]

Did I say that? I gotta go back and read...I ran the rear discoed and saw a small difference but disconnecting the front made a huge difference. The H3 front sway bar is fat, much bigger and thicker then a JK sway bar. If you throw an H3 front sway bar on any other rig around its size (JK, FJ, 4runner etc.) they wont flex for **** either. That sway bar overpowers the front end. Disconnect that bitch and you will be much happier in the rocks.

 

[06 H3]

some used the JKS JK wrangler 4in lift disconnects for the front #2034. It requires drilling out the hole to sway bar 1/2in though.

That was for a rancho lift though, if you order a shorter one it may work. Lastly, he mentioned some issues of breaking the bolt sway disco things. My brother broke one once on his JK, I know you can order just parts, I wonder if one for a WJ or ZJ will work and might be stronger seeing its a heavier rig, not sure though.

 

[06 H3]

http://jksmfg.com/i-13306780-grand-cherokee-wj-1999-2004-quicker-disconnect-fits-4-6-lift.html

These ones look like they could work with some modification. First problem is that they use grade 5 bolts. You can easily upgrade them to grade 8. One one end of the WJ should work perfect. The lower looks like it needs some modifying of the bracket spacer.

 

[jakesz28]

A grade 8 bolt might just snap were a grade 5 could just bend. Just something to think about.

I could not find a way to make disconnects for the front. Without being lifted everything is tight and no room there. Then the cv boot is right there and I did not want anything to tear it. So I decided to just remove one side on the front when needed.

 

[atvspeed4]

A grade 8 bolt might just snap were a grade 5 could just bend. Just something to think about.

I could not find a way to make disconnects for the front. Without being lifted everything is tight and no room there. Then the cv boot is right there and I did not want anything to tear it. So I decided to just remove one side on the front when needed.

That is not true about grade 8 vs grade 5. On another forum we went off about this for a long time... Look at the tensile/ yield

 

[chaos254]

this seems like it would work with some modification and isnt very expensive. They are for a TJ

http://www.roughcountry.com/sway-bar-disconnects-1129.html

Also like 06h3 said maybe the jks would be better

http://www.roughcountry.com/sway-bar-disconnects-1029.html


What happens if the swaybar links are too long?


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[backcountryislife]

What happens if the swaybar links are too long?


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The the swaybar sits above level, which changes the leverage ratio, making the front end a little stiffer, as it can't exert the same torsional force on the swaybar.

Being that you're going to disconnect off road... the effect is solely to make the truck slightly stiffer on the road, which is a good thing IMO. On my JK, mine sit at an angle out of necessity because of what I've done with my suspension, and when I made that switch, I noticed NO change in road handling at all, and obviously I'm disconnected when wheeling, so that's a non issue.

In other words, if it's close (obviously, if you crank that bar to something like 45 degrees there WILL be negative consequences) it's not a big deal if the angle isn't perfectly flat.


Another factor to consider is that if you run stock links, and only disconnect one side, the swaybar will hit the a arm when the opposite side is at full droop. Running a longer swaybar link will avoid this, allowing you to only disconnect one side when you wheel.


FYI, not mine, but this is how mine sit.

If you look, you can find ones like these:

But the ones that use typical threaded rod, that you can cut down to any length. This is how mine are made, and they're ideal in the fact that you can make them however long you want to dial them in.

 

[Highatop]

Ok, leavin soon...06Base, just protection and 35s...If, I was to disco my swaybars...What kinda trouble I'm lookin at( brakelines for one). I am goin to work it an use it what I got and drive back home. Already know, wheel spin bad an traction good...