Rear quick disconnects

[954paulo]

Anyone running the WJ quick disconnects? Or any other alternative?


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[jakesz28]

I think those are my exact ones. I had to shorten them because I'm not lifted. They would fit a 4" lift. Just find the right size die and use oil to thread it before cutting it down.

 

[RamRod]

do you have a link to what you are talking about?

Making a disconnect setup is on my list of "To do's"

 

[Best4x4]

Yeah I wouldn't mind picking up a set and shortening them myself. How much did you take off?

 

[954paulo]

Jks quicker disconnects pn3100 for a 99-04 Wj jeep front end 0"-3.5 lift


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[SuperBuickGuy]

I took the rear sway bar off and never have missed it.

 

[Best4x4]

Yeah I'm kinda thinking about doing the samething SuperBuickGuy. I tried it on my TJ, but it was to light and it would have rolled over. The H3 is a much heavier rig and I don't drive like an idiot in the first place. Only time I'd have to sling it would be to avoid an idiot on the road.

 

[954paulo]

How's the ride


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[4speedfunk]

I've been driving around for a year without sway bars (3-link coil-sprung SAS front & SOA rear). I think the rear sway bar's influence on the truck's handling is minimal. But the front is definitely needed. I have a few other projects to get to first but, adding a front sway bar is on my list this summer. Do to the SAS...my front sway bar is posing quite a few headaches. But the rear is a piece-o-cake. Just bolt it back onto the axle and make some longer links.

The ride is, well..."sway-zy" without them.

 

[06 H3]

I have my sway bar quick discos on the rear and have left them unconnected without much difference in ride. Sometimes I feel like it rides nicer without it. I have driven on the street with no sway bars front and back with 4 blown rancho shocks. ****IN SCARY. Its not as bad with 4 bilsteins. Still I recommend the front on with the IFS

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

I have my sway bar quick discos on the rear and have left them unconnected without much difference in ride. Sometimes I feel like it rides nicer without it. I have driven on the street with no sway bars front and back with 4 blown rancho shocks. ****IN SCARY. Its not as bad with 4 bilsteins. Still I recommend the front on with the IFS

someday, I'm going to replace all the shocks with magnetic shocks and a gyroscope - then completely remove the sway bars.... but yeah, that'd be scary without any kind of dampening. I have a friend who built a MB with a 3 link front/rear suspension. He had 48" of travel, but if he sat in the vehicle, it'd lean - he never did (to my knowledge) solve that issue without a sway bar - after all, you would need some additional spring rate to counter-act lean on any kind of side hill or uneven weights in the passenger compartment. With IFS, you can mitigate that to an extent - but it's always good to remember that you need at least 3 points of contact to stay off your lid. That's the theory behind what I did. I can get a lot of travel in the rear; and still have a driveable vehicle by leaving the front bar connected

 

[Portager]

I took the rear sway bar off and never have missed it.

I've been driving with my rear anti-sway bar disconnected for several months. I notice that the back end feels loose at freeway speeds and I feel like a sudden jerk of the wheel, such as an emergency maneuver, could cause it to break loose and try to pass me. I'm planning to install the Quicker Disconnect soon.

So, just to make sure, with part # 3100 http://jksmfg.com/i-13306778-grand-cherokee-wj-1999-2004-quicker-disconnect-fits-0-3-5-lift.html you don't need to shorten it?

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

make sure it's the sway bar - the way that system is designed, it shouldn't help you track straight - it sounds like a spring or a bushing is going

 

[954paulo]

So these could work also? If I'm going to cut something that's 170 bucks why not get a similar product that's only 69 bucks!

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[SuperBuickGuy]

I'd be concerned about the shear strength of those - not to mention those would be a PITA to remove. The other style uses a larger pin/bolt at the attachment point; thus you just swing the connector rod up and out of the way (no clunking allowed). Those small pins would not be terrible strong, but oh good lord they'd be a pain to reassemble after a day of wheeling.

 

[Portager]

Since I've had my rear anti-sway bar linkage replaced 4 times under warranty, I know the difference between driving with a broken anti-sway bar linkage and driving with a good one. There is no difference when you're going straight, but if I jerk the steering wheel I can feel the backend swaying back and forth. The amount of sway is proportional to how hard you move the wheel and how fast I'm going. I barely notice it at 55 mph, but it is very noticeable at 79 mph. I have also noticed the backend swaying in gusty crosswinds (25 mph crosswind is barely noticeable, but gusting to 50 mph is very noticeable). The other place I noticed it was driving too fast on winding mountain roads.

 

[Portager]

It is consider a poor design practice to have the quick release pin carrying the load. In JKS design the quick release pins just keep the linkage from coming off the beefie horizontal pins (i.e. a retainer). The no-name ebay special has the pins carrying the load. As a Mechanical Engineer I would not recommend that linkage to anyone except my ex-wife. :wink:

 

[954paulo]

Rubicon express is a no name company? I understand the stress on the pins is definitely a bad design flaw. I'm just hoping for a cheaper alternative to the jks ones. But I have to admit they are damn beefy guess I'll be getting the expensive ones


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[SuperBuickGuy]

Since I've had my rear anti-sway bar linkage replaced 4 times under warranty, I know the difference between driving with a broken anti-sway bar linkage and driving with a good one. There is no difference when you're going straight, but if I jerk the steering wheel I can feel the backend swaying back and forth. The amount of sway is proportional to how hard you move the wheel and how fast I'm going. I barely notice it at 55 mph, but it is very noticeable at 79 mph. I have also noticed the backend swaying in gusty crosswinds (25 mph crosswind is barely noticeable, but gusting to 50 mph is very noticeable). The other place I noticed it was driving too fast on winding mountain roads.

you drive a different vehicle - there is no difference with mine; but off-road there is a substantial, positive gain.

but somehow the question I asked wasn't answered - how does the sway bar affect those issues you relate? On an GM a-body, the rear sway bar does two things: prevent body roll, and center the axle. That isn't what the bar does on the H3. My point is, there are a number of things that can affect how a car handles, and removing the band-aid can make a car handle worse - but it's not the cause of the issue. Things like worn upper control arms, steering rack moving, or (as I mentioned before) worn/broken springs or worn bushings can be the root cause of the issue. The sway bar being disconnected just makes it more noticeable.

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

Rubicon express is a no name company? I understand the stress on the pins is definitely a bad design flaw. I'm just hoping for a cheaper alternative to the jks ones. But I have to admit they are damn beefy guess I'll be getting the expensive ones


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Build one yourself replacing the through-bolt with a hitch pin (for example, no idea whether that particular solution would work). Still, you're not saving money with a product that doesn't work.

 

[Portager]

you drive a different vehicle - there is no difference with mine; but off-road there is a substantial, positive gain.

True, I drive an H3T which has a longer wheelbase than the H3. That could cause the difference. Also, mine is heavier than stock due to the weight of the SlantBack and the cargo slide.

but somehow the question I asked wasn't answered - how does the sway bar affect those issues you relate? On an GM a-body, the rear sway bar does two things: prevent body roll, and center the axle. That isn't what the bar does on the H3. My point is, there are a number of things that can affect how a car handles, and removing the band-aid can make a car handle worse - but it's not the cause of the issue. Things like worn upper control arms, steering rack moving, or (as I mentioned before) worn/broken springs or worn bushings can be the root cause of the issue. The sway bar being disconnected just makes it more noticeable.

Since we are talking about the read anti-sway bar, I think we can rule out worn upper control arms and the steering rack moving. BTW, I just replaced the steering rack bushings and installed the ScoprWorks steering rack support bracket. The anti-sway bar linkage is still broken and the problem remained.

The first time I broke my rear anti-sway bar linkage the truck had less than 20,000 miles on it so, I don't think worn out rear leaf springs or bushings were the source of the problem. Also, each time I had the anti-sway bar linkage replace handling returned to normal.

 

[backcountryislife]

Just curious, why disconnect the rear at all? I disco'd the front, but the rear reached full flex (had extensions, shackles & 5100's) with the rear swaybar in easily. The front is the one that is MUCH stiffer, and limits travel significantly.

I disconnected the rear once, but honestly it made very little difference aside from smaller higher speed stuff... it smoothed that stuff out a little better.

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

The first time I broke my rear anti-sway bar linkage the truck had less than 20,000 miles on it so, I don't think worn out rear leaf springs or bushings were the source of the problem. Also, each time I had the anti-sway bar linkage replace handling returned to normal.

It's devilishly hard to diagnose the issue with your truck from Seattle.

I race, and I've broken sway bar links - but it took a lot of doing to do that... I've also raced with and without a rear sway bar (IRS) and found on tight tracks, that I didn't need the bar at all rather, I was faster.

backing up just a bit, you say you broke the links - what broke? how?

Just curious, why disconnect the rear at all? I disco'd the front, but the rear reached full flex (had extensions, shackles & 5100's) with the rear swaybar in easily. The front is the one that is MUCH stiffer, and limits travel significantly.

I disconnected the rear once, but honestly it made very little difference aside from smaller higher speed stuff... it smoothed that stuff out a little better.

weight on the corners, the best traction comes from keeping all tires with equal pressure on the ground. The sway bar changes that dynamic because it's resisting flex

 

[Portager]

The H3T's seam to have issue with breaking the rear anti-sway bar linkage on extreme terrain. I've never heard of an H3 breaking one. This is probably magnified on my truck because I'm carrying more weight that most due to the weight of the SlantBack and the cargo slide. I've broken 4 linkages and the dealer wants around $115 to replace the next one. I'd rather pay $175 for one I can disconnect when I go offroad and void breaking another one.

 

[Bigunit]

I have broken the one on the rear driver-side. Snapped and popped right off at the joints while doing some rock crawling and wheeling over some extreme Sonoran desert terrain. Replaced them both with OEMs. Looks like they just get weak and tired and break.

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