Modifications

[QC_Hummer]

I am going to have around $3800 this summer to spend on the H2. I want everyone's opinion on what I should do in order of preference.

Right now is basically bone stock, besides some minor painting. I don't really know where to start.


Ready. ....Set....Go

 

[Cyouincourt007]

Hmmmmm where to even begin....

 

[3Hummers]

Big, broad question. You thinking Offroad mods or tv screens and stereo type mods.

 

[Renagade132]

Yes, maybe tell us in order of importance to You, and then we can throw you suggestions brother!

 

[QC_Hummer]

Reinforced suspension parts, improved horsepower, stuff that will help me go offroad without breaking stuff. No interior, mall crawler crap.

 

[Synthetickiller]

Not that I'm an expert, but everyone seems to break tie-rods.
Here's a ton of overbuilt options: http://dmaxstore.com/products/?route=product%2Fsearch&search=tie+rod
If you get the most expensive option, that's just under 1/3 of your budget (it's more than just tie rods).

 

[3Hummers]

Do you currently have rocker panel protection? That would be high on the list. Good tires, spare tie rods/upgraded tie rods and a spare half shaft. If the budget allows a winch would be nice.

 

[QC_Hummer]

I got the stock rocker bars

 

[Cyouincourt007]

Don't have a deuce so not sure of options but maybe some ucp, suspension air bags if yours has them are they in good shape...cb radio, light bar, cubes, roof rack, a tune , just throwing stuff out there, got a high lift, winch, straps, general maintenance, save some for a hummer rainy day

any thoughts out there...

 

[Renagade132]

I would definitely suggest the Dmax Tie Rods and Upper Control arms. They make a huge difference, and well worth the piece of mind knowing that you won't run to a bad situation often, and they are also guarenteed for life to the original purchaser!

 

[USMC_315]

Try getting a Diablo Tune, Scarsman got one for a relatively cheap price and supposedly works quite well. I'm planning on doing it on both my 2 and 3 for increased torque and hp. Also add a new intake, that will help your engine breath better. I currently have an AEM Brute Force intake which from what I can tell is doin pretty well. As far as UCP, I haven't run into any issues with the stock UCP so I don't know much there.

Wheels is something I'd also take a swing at, upgrade to 37"s if you're serious about offroading. I have 35" Trail Grapplers which work well, but I'm definitley goin to upgrade to 37"s once these are shot. Also I'd like to agree with the posts above, yes upgrade your tie rods as well as the power steering pump (only if you are upping the size of your tires).

Hope this helps and be sure to post up some pics of what you end up doing!!

 

[USMC_315]

Here's the link...

http://www.hummer4x4offroad.com/for...ustom-Tune-Results-review&p=164541#post164541

 

[Scarsman]

If I was just starting to build up another truck now this is the order I would follow:

Kryptonite tie rods, idler, and idler support = $860
These first because the tie rods are just weak and bend and break, and the GM idler and support are crap and wear out fast.

Better UCP and frame protection. Price depends on what you get, and may need to be custom.
These next because my frame is beat on the bottom. I've built a better trans skid for mine, and will soon have a replacement for the aluminum front one, an additional one for the transfer case, and frame rail guards.

37" tires = $17-1900
These are after the skids because if you are really off roading, you are going to bang and scrape the bottom no matter what tires you have. Bigger tires will just let you try harder stuff. Your undercarriage won't know the difference! Price can vary a lot on these depending on what you get, and if you change wheels or not.

Diablosport Trinity tuner and DiabLew custom tune = $695 ($495 if you just go with the inTune and custom DiabLew tune) You can also find the tuners used sometimes for way less. Or an older Predator for even less. Just saw one on Craigslist for $100.
This becomes most important after upping your tire size.

Winch. $400-$1500
This could go either before or after tires. And again, price can vary widely.

And of course the list goes on from there!

 

[Bigunit]

Great info for anyone who owns or is thinking if owning an H2.

 

[Fish]

If I was just starting to build up another truck now this is the order I would follow:

Kryptonite tie rods, idler, and idler support = $860
These first because the tie rods are just weak and bend and break, and the GM idler and support are crap and wear out fast.

Better UCP and frame protection. Price depends on what you get, and may need to be custom.
These next because my frame is beat on the bottom. I've built a better trans skid for mine, and will soon have a replacement for the aluminum front one, an additional one for the transfer case, and frame rail guards.

37" tires = $17-1900
These are after the skids because if you are really off roading, you are going to bang and scrape the bottom no matter what tires you have. Bigger tires will just let you try harder stuff. Your undercarriage won't know the difference! Price can vary a lot on these depending on what you get, and if you change wheels or not.

Diablosport Trinity tuner and DiabLew custom tune = $695 ($495 if you just go with the inTune and custom DiabLew tune) You can also find the tuners used sometimes for way less. Or an older Predator for even less. Just saw one on Craigslist for $100.
This becomes most important after upping your tire size.

Winch. $400-$1500
This could go either before or after tires. And again, price can vary widely.

And of course the list goes on from there!

what is the idler support you mentioned. I've replaced my idler and pitman but more support is always nice.

edit: so I just googled it and saw what's out there. Just nice to hear some first hand experience

 

[Scarsman]

what is the idler support you mentioned. I've replaced my idler and pitman but more support is always nice.

The idler support is the piece that is mounted to the frame that your idler arm mounts to. It's also called an idler pivot. The stock one just has a bushing inside it, which wears very quickly. Especially with hard wheeling and oversize tires. The Kryptonite one has two ball bearings and is completely rebuildable.

http://dmaxstore.com/products/?route=product/product&product_id=383

Only thing is the bracket on the frame of the H2 is different than on the trucks. It has a "top" on it that needs to be cut out for the Kryptonite one to fit in.

You will see they also have a support gusset to weld to the frame. Don't get this, as our frame is slightly different than the truck frames and it won't fit. I am going to make a gusset for my truck.

 

[Scarsman]

Here is a pic of the stock idler and support/pivot vs the Kryptonite ones.




Here is the idler itself. The idler also has a bearing instead of bushings, and is rebuildable.

 

[Polar Bear]

I would start by regearing your H2, even if you are running stock rubber. Huge gains both on-road and off!

While you are in there install a front Eaton E-Locker.

Contrary to what every says, DO NOT UPGRADE your Tie Rods! Upgrade Every Part inside the frame rails. Use the new MOOG HD Steering parts and the cognito braces and at most sleeves on your stock tie-rods. You Want fuses off road. A Tie-rod is fast and Easy to replace a steering box or pitman IS NOT! I choose what breaks on my H2. That is why my Tie-rods are stock. Trust me, I run big 39inch XMLs and this has been the winning formula for me! They break when I do something stupid but a quick replacement and I am back up and running.

Next, would be Engine Upgrades.

Start with a good Air Intake. Gibson Headers and Exhaust and some Granettelli Wires.

Get a good Tune from some one like PCM of NC to get everything working amazingly well!

Just my 2 cents.

 

[Scarsman]

I understand what you are saying about the tie rods, however I have been running them for a long time, and know a lot of people who have, and I don't know of anyone who has broken other parts because of having upgraded tie rods. But I know a lot of people who no longer bend or break tie rods!

Regearing certainly helps for power, but there can be costs. I think it should be well thought out first. In my case, after looking into it, I have decided to stay with the stock gears, and here is why:

Our transmissions (the 4L65E ) are barely adequate for our trucks, and don't survive well with lots of added power. I tow. One should NEVER tow in 4th gear with these trannys. It builds heat which will kill it in time.

3rd gear is straight through 1:1 drive. I have my trans set to lock in 3rd. So towing in 3rd with it locked there are no moving parts to wear out. No heat build up, no clutches slipping, nothing to break. Right now I can tow in 3rd at 60 mph at 2500 rpm. If I am pulling a really steep pass, I can run in 2nd gear and be inthe maxpower rangeof themotor, and still be able to hold decent road speed. If I regeared lower then I would be running much higher rpm to try and keep highway speeds in 3rd, and dropping to second on steep hills would make me quite slow. Not as good on the motor, and sucking way more gas.

For my application the stock gearing actually works out pretty well. As far as offroad, I've never felt handicapped from my gearing. It's just never been an issue.

Definitely not saying don't regear, I'm just saying it should be something that is well thought out and done with a specific purpose and goal in mind.

 

[Polar Bear]

I understand what you are saying about the tie rods, however I have been running them for a long time, and know a lot of people who have, and I don't know of anyone who has broken other parts because of having upgraded tie rods. But I know a lot of people who no longer bend or break tie rods!

Regearing certainly helps for power, but there can be costs. I think it should be well thought out first. In my case, after looking into it, I have decided to stay with the stock gears, and here is why:

Our transmissions (the 4L65E ) are barely adequate for our trucks, and don't survive well with lots of added power. I tow. One should NEVER tow in 4th gear with these trannys. It builds heat which will kill it in time.

3rd gear is straight through 1:1 drive. I have my trans set to lock in 3rd. So towing in 3rd with it locked there are no moving parts to wear out. No heat build up, no clutches slipping, nothing to break. Right now I can tow in 3rd at 60 mph at 2500 rpm. If I am pulling a really steep pass, I can run in 2nd gear and be inthe maxpower rangeof themotor, and still be able to hold decent road speed. If I regeared lower then I would be running much higher rpm to try and keep highway speeds in 3rd, and dropping to second on steep hills would make me quite slow. Not as good on the motor, and sucking way more gas.

For my application the stock gearing actually works out pretty well. As far as offroad, I've never felt handicapped from my gearing. It's just never been an issue.

Definitely not saying don't regear, I'm just saying it should be something that is well thought out and done with a specific purpose and goal in mind.

For the steering parts, I never bent or broke a tie rod with my 37inch Toyo MTs but the 39 XMLs broke them on the 3rd trail I did with them...now I have sleeves and no more issues!

To give you an idea, our H2s are under geared from the day they were built!

For 35s we should've had 4.56 gears from the start as a minimum. For 37s you should be running 4.88s or higher.

I run 5.38 gears with my 39s and my H2 is a rocket ship and sips fuel like a much smaller vehicle! Gearing = efficiency. Better gears mean you will simply reduce strain on all parts especially the engine and transmission! Everyone thinks low gears will screw over your mileage but this is wrong. Low Gears increase mileage and reduce wear and tear.

A couple of important things to note. Once upon a time Transmissions had no Overdrive and Truck engines made peak torque around 2200-2800rpm so low gears where not your friend! Fast Foward to the present and we have transmissions with around a 25-30% Overdrive and our engines make peak torque around 4400rpm! So what was true then is not true now! First off you need a engine to be in it's power band. At 1600rpm our stock H2s running on the highway at 60mph we are far from being in the engines power band! Ever notice how often your H2 downshifts to 2nd for seemingly nothing overpasses! My H2 runs 2400rpm at 65mph and I easily pull hills in overdrive! At the most the truck will unlock the TCC but most hills the truck just takes it in stride!

I will give you a great practical example, Think of a Bicycle!

If you are in a High Gear, your legs are not turning fast but boy you are sure getting a workout! In the low gears, your legs are spinning fast but you are not working hard. This same principle applies directly to our Hummers! I can average between 16-18mpg on my 9000lbs H2, so gearing is your friend along with engine tuning and power adders! They all help!


On a side note, I love the winch plate you installed on your Deuce! Nice Work!

 

[Fish]

Good info Scarsman and Polar Bear :cheers:

 

[Scarsman]

Just to be clear, are you saying you get 18 mpg on 39" tires with a 6.0? If that is correct I would certainly rethink regearing. I did a lot of searching and the most I saw anyone claim for mpg improvement was 1-3. The vast majority of the ones I found lost some, and most were getting 8-10 mpg running tires from 37-40".

And thank you, on the winch mount!

 

[Polar Bear]

Just to be clear, are you saying you get 18 mpg on 39" tires with a 6.0? If that is correct I would certainly rethink regearing. I did a lot of searching and the most I saw anyone claim for mpg improvement was 1-3. The vast majority of the ones I found lost some, and most were getting 8-10 mpg running tires from 37-40".

And thank you, on the winch mount!

Yes! But it took 9 years to get my H2 to it's current state, some stuff worked and a lot of stuff that was supposed to provide huge gains was plain crap! Gearing is only a part of the equation, a major part, but still only a part!

I will average 13-14mpg if I include some offroad or if the temps are below 0degrees Celsius. If the temps are below -18C my mileage will drop to around 10-11mpg...but that is due to the cold and the fuel we need to run in Canada in the winter and the fact that the truck works much harder to get to operating temperature and the TCC takes forever to finally lock-up!

So we don't hyjack QC_Hummers thread...I will start a new post and start to go thru everything that has lead to the mileage increase...The List is Very Extensive!

Here is the link to the new thread; http://www.hummer4x4offroad.com/for...e-Boosting-Tricks-and-Tips-that-actually-Work!

 

[Scarsman]

That would be great.

 

[USMC_315]

I will definitely be interested in this as well!