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Modifications

Big2dabank

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,220
Location
Central Florida
Yes! But it took 9 years to get my H2 to it's current state, some stuff worked and a lot of stuff that was supposed to provide huge gains was plain crap! Gearing is only a part of the equation, a major part, but still only a part!

I will average 13-14mpg if I include some offroad or if the temps are below 0degrees Celsius. If the temps are below -18C my mileage will drop to around 10-11mpg...but that is due to the cold and the fuel we need to run in Canada in the winter and the fact that the truck works much harder to get to operating temperature and the TCC takes forever to finally lock-up!

So we don't hyjack QC_Hummers thread...I will start a new post and start to go thru everything that has lead to the mileage increase...The List is Very Extensive!

Here is the link to the new thread; http://www.hummer4x4offroad.com/for...e-Boosting-Tricks-and-Tips-that-actually-Work!

That is crazy. I am very interested in how you managed to dial your rig in. I'll definately be following your other thread.

As far as modifications, I agree with Scars on the tierod issue, I would break the factory tie rods constantly which would also lead to a broken CV once the tire turns past the CV angle. I upgraded to HD tie rods and have broken far fewer shafts. I still break them, but I am locked up front and they are super easy to change and with the lifetime warranty from auto zone they just hand me a new one overtime I bring in a broke shaft.

I would start with the following upgrades for an H2 that will be used for some decent wheeling.

The factory rubber is actually pretty decent for everything but mud and probably snow for your northern guys, but we don't get any of that white stuff in Florida, so I would max out the life of them before you upgrade them.
1. I do agree with re gearing as a first step, I went with 4.56 when I locked the front but I wish I would have gone to 4.88 as a minimum to start. You don't really need to lock the front, and I don't use the front locker often, but it does come in handy and makes some tough climbs pretty easy and takes some stress of the rest of the driveline, you just have to be careful with wheel spin while the front is locked, the cvs can break if the wheels are spinning and then find traction.
2. I would also work on the stance of the rig. I am not a fan of lift kits, but I would add coil spacers or longer coils in back and keys up front and then upgrade the shocks, they limit travel quite a bit. For me the ideal H2 stance is to gain about 2" front and rear, keeps the CG low and get your decent clearance for some decent wheeling.
3. I would still say upgrade the tie rods, centerlink, idler and pitman, etc.. they are crap. If your pitman/idler is worn that is a good time to do this mod, super easy to do, well except for removing the pitman that is a royal pain in the ass and another story.
4. I would upgrade the rear trailing arms, the factory ones are rubbish, but replacements are hard to find, but they are out there. I have been looking at the Spohn kit, but don't know anyone with it installed. http://www.spohn.net/shop/2000-2006-GM-SUV-Suburban-Tahoe-Yukon-Avalanche-Escalade-Hummer-H2/
5. I would not worry about the UCP or factory rock rails yet, they do bend easy, but you can beat the hell out of them for while before you need to worry about that, so that would be pretty far down on my list. I would address gear storage next, roof rack, interior cargo management, etc for tools and trail/camping gear.
6. Once the ball joints need replacement on the front, I would upgrade the UCA to something a little better, i.e. cognito, d-max, camburg, etc..
 
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QC_Hummer

Well-Known Member
Messages
62
Location
Coal Valley, IL
Well, $1500 gone. Cracked rear case of the transfer case, new slip yoke, output seal, gaskets, transmission mount and u-joint. Also had the muffler seam break and spent $200 cutting it out and putting glasspacks in.

I did gain about 1.5 mpg though. Traveled a little the past 2 days, and got 14.5 mpg going down Rt. 69 and Hwy 75 in Ok and Tx. Noticed a difference.
 

taylorblake831

Well-Known Member
Messages
323
Location
western washington
Well, $1500 gone. Cracked rear case of the transfer case, new slip yoke, output seal, gaskets, transmission mount and u-joint. Also had the muffler seam break and spent $200 cutting it out and putting glasspacks in.

I did gain about 1.5 mpg though. Traveled a little the past 2 days, and got 14.5 mpg going down Rt. 69 and Hwy 75 in Ok and Tx. Noticed a difference.

69? 75? Where do you live? I'm from Sherman


-TEXAS FOREVER-
 

QC_Hummer

Well-Known Member
Messages
62
Location
Coal Valley, IL
I'm from Illinois. I was traveling to Mckinney to see a friend. I went from Big Cabin in OK straight down 69 to Hwy 75 in Texas to Mckinney.
 
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