Mod idea - good or bad???

[Paladine71]

:giggle: Yeah, be selective!

 

[M22KLARS]

Man there is a lot of chrome on that site!! :whaa:

:giggle: Yeah, be selective!

OMG I haven't been on the site in a while... Now I remember why... Some of the stuff they have is absolutely ridiculous.

 

[Hunner]

My experience in the rain in the past was that high output coils when sprayed with, whatever is too much water, even coming up from below, and spark plug wires arc and the high capacitance charge gets grounded before doing it's full discharge to the plugs. Back when we ran distributors those did not do well with condensation from water hitting the hot engine components, but then that's an old story and we did try to keep them sprayed with water repellent compounds and wrap them in rubber boots.
Double check those measurements as some of my links have died but this one worked. Shop prices they vary. I removed the louver on mine (I did not let them do the recall) and measured this to fit inside a line around the slots cut into the hood for the clips. My louver is thru bolted using handles for the top side.
I was going to make a carbon fiber shroud around the edges of the fan with provisions to secure the louver with quick releases.
I just might still do that someday, in all my spare time.:d

Here is the fan I found for my idea that never has happened.
http://performanceparts.com/part/Flex-a-lite/330
It's back to grinding rack mount sleeves for now .............................hmmm there is my air shears nibblers

 

[HUMMER INVESTMENTS]

Very informational thread! Once i get my list of things to do with all the things i have standing around this is definetaly a project!

 

[Paladine71]

A guy over on HF just made a recommendation that would solve the water issue for the most part, a sliding shutter to close in heavy rain. Interesting...

 

[theBroken]

I was messing around with this thing I made it sometime ago. I molded it after the RD scoop but I changed a few things. I put a center piece in it with the idea of mounting lights to it and I made it so it bolts to the hood and not just snap in. With Hunners idea I bet you can take something like this larger hood scoop and hide fans in it much easier than trying to fit them under the hood. You can hide all the servos and relays for the fans in the scoop and just make a quick disconnect for the wires to be able to quickly remove and install it has you need.


Extracting heat from the engine bay will make a difference with the aluminum blocks the Hummer 5.3 has.

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You can see here that I didn't get the holes perfect but a little more sanding and you would never tell.

 

[Portager]

What is an amazine hood scoop theBroken and I could see a LED light in there. However, I have trouble seeing over the hood when I'm off roading. Would that obstruct more of the view?

 

[theBroken]

Would that obstruct more of the view?

Yes but not that much.

 

[4speedfunk]

Larger fan does not necessarily equal more cooling. The thermostat controls engine temperature...regardless of how much air you blow through the radiator. Most likely your thermostat is closing to maintain the setpoint...probably around 200F. Try installing a thermostat for the temperature you want to run...185F to 190F. Thats sort of hard to determine considering GM gave us "H" and "C" on the gauge, instead of real numbers. You can pull your old one out and it should have a temp stamped on it, or you can test it in a pan of water on your stove, to see what temp it opens and closes at.

 

[Portager]

I don't like the idea of opening the hood because it is going to allow rain and $#!t to get into your engine compartment. If you need better cooling, I'd start with pressure washing the radiator to remove any blockage. Then take it to a radiator shop and check for internal blockage. If all else fails add another coil to the radiator or a double fan.

theBroken: (my apologies for hyjacking your thread Paladine71) I really like the idea of mounting a light on the hood, but I'd like to minimize the blockage of the line of sight over the hood. Here is a picture from my driver’s seat view taken at my normal eye level.

and another taken with the camera against the head liner.

In the first shot the hood louver is blocking the view and it is 1 and 7/8” high. In the second shot you can see the base plate and my Grille Guard which shows there isn’t much more height available in the front. My preference would be a light mount that replaced the hood louver and was less than 1 7/8” high.

To do this I’d start with the Rigid Industries SR (single row) LED light bar, either the 20” http://www.rigidindustries.com/product-p/srseries20.htm or the 30” http://www.rigidindustries.com/category-s/130.htm . I think the 30” would look the best. These lights are only 1.5” high so they would meet my 1 7/8” height goal. The 30” SR series light only draws 104 watts and provides 9,600 lumens of light output. The LED light bar would need airflow over the cooling fins, so I think it would be best to leave it uncovered. Wind noise might be a potential issue.

If someone were to build a well designed hood louver replacement LED light bar mount I buy one.

 

[rsc]

Let's try looking at this from a different angle. I understand that the Efan uses a pretty high cfm rating so airflow across the radiator core might not be the entire issue. The transmission cooler is located inside the radiator for more efficient heat transfer to cool the transmission, but that also heats up the engine coolant more- 250F vs 200F for the two fluids. At 100F+ ambient temps I notice the radiator is getting to the limits of it's ability to shed heat, especially noticeable when running the A/C. Above 105F I have to cycle the A/C to balance engine temps with interior comfort around town below about 55 mph. I agree that hood louvers will shed engine bay heat, but by also adding an inline transmission cooler you might be able to shed some of that transmission fluid heat before it heat soaks the radiator. ???

 

[Paladine71]

You're speaking above my level of mechanical knowledge, but it sounds great!

So, you think that the best approach is to add an inline transmission cooler, vent the louvers, and have an adjustable damper/shutter to limit the water during heavy rain?

 

[rsc]

I think that those 3 things would git 'er done. When I decide to do this I'm not going with adjustable louvers, but will probably put a plate or plug in the hood holes or louvers for winter only. I think that lowering the transmission temp will help lower your engine coolant temps during "extreme useage". I have heard that the external transmission cooler by itself (not run inside the radiator) doesn't shed enough heat on long, uphill, summer runs but if added in addition to the stock setup it might take away enough heat to make cutting the holes in the hood unnecessary. But they sure look cool and that's enough of a reason right there to keep them!

 

[theBroken]

I put a trans cooler on Kevin's H3T alpha. Ask him if he notices if it runs cooler now than before the cooler was installed. I don't know what it ran at before the cooler.

Here's the cooler I installed, I wrapped all the lines in aluminum wrapped fiber glass. I also put hydraulic quick connects just in case a rock hits it.

You can see above it that there's plenty of room for the electric fan on top of the cooler.

Here's some video of how it comes in and out.

 

[MUTAINT]

Brodie, did you run the trans cooler/fan before or after the trans cooler in the radiator and why did you choose the way you did it?

 

[Paladine71]

Details, bro. What is required, costs, connection, waterproof, etc.? :corn:

 

[theBroken]

Brodie, did you run the trans cooler/fan before or after the trans cooler in the radiator and why did you choose the way you did it?

After. I ran it after becuase it will cool the fluid rite before it gets to the trans.

 

[Hunner]

Part of heat generation is the torque converter slipping as most do by design to make it smooth. I had a triple lock torque converter made for my Cummins and a double deep finned aluminum pan. Too bad we don't have room for that added fluid. I also installed a tranny temp gauge and it rarely gets off the peg at 100 degrees, even towing heavy gross, like 27,000 lbs it stays below engine temp. It's also a low stall tranny and juiced up fluid drive so when it shifts it shifts positive.
Brodie have you installed one of those trannys you do those mods to? If so, does it keep low temps? Did you do any mods to the torque converter?
I have considered getting with the guys that did my truck to think about a triple lock for the tranny we use when the time comes. They also have a method of widening the standard torque converter face plate to more surface area and milling the fins on the fluid vanes.

 

[theBroken]

Brodie have you installed one of those trannys you do those mods to? If so, does it keep low temps? Did you do any mods to the torque converter?
I have considered getting with the guys that did my truck to think about a triple lock for the tranny we use when the time comes. They also have a method of widening the standard torque converter face plate to more surface area and milling the fins on the fluid vanes.

Read through this.

http://www.hummer4x4offroad.com/forum/showthread.php?579-recent-upgrades

The temp stayed down but since it's a alpha I have nothing to gauge it on.

 

[theBroken]

Details, bro. What is required, costs, connection, waterproof, etc.? :corn:

I think the cooler with the fan was less than 200$. Then the angle I used is glavanized cold rolled and cost about 40$. Then cutting and welding it in, drilling the holes took about 4 hours. The protection tube that I welded in is 2" DOM and that little piece cost 17$. Then to notch it and weld it in place took about 2 hours. The 2 90 degree hydraulic connections that are on the cooler are pressed hydraulic fittings which cost 20$ each. Then the tube is all 3/8" hydraulic hose. The heat wrap is aluminum shielded fiberglass. I used all 4' and it was only 20$ for the 4'. I ran it up and over the Tcase to the trans. There's a heat shield on the driverside underbody of the T, I'm sure the H3 alphas have it to. It's for the exhaust and down pipe. I unbolted just the back end of that and ran the hose up over it, then bolted it back down and it holds the tube real snug. I did put a little piece of dynomat where the heat shield was pulled away just so it wouldn't vibrate over time. Then the quick connects are for a snow plow, they are 20$ a set. I installed them male female and female male so if the cooler got damaged somehow you can just use the quick connect to plug into each other. Then for the switch I ran the wire up along the gear selector cable into the same grommet the cable uses into the cab. Then I put the switch on the dash. I was going to have it always on but after I seen how cool it ran I decided to make it so it only runs when you need it to run. So when sitting in traffic and when your on the trail you can leave it on.

 

[rsc]

Awesome!

 

[Paladine71]

I think what Brodie is trying to tell me is to gather some cash and pay him a visit.... :wink:

 

[theBroken]

I think what Brodie is trying to tell me is to gather some cash and pay him a visit.... :wink:

Anyone can do this. The only special tool needed is a brake line flare.

 

[MUTAINT]

I like this mod, I may do it in front of the radiator and bypass the trans lines going to the radiator all together. I have been hearing about the rads failing and mixing the trans fluid and coolent a lot lately. Since I'm going to be out of the 50K B2B warranty soon and GM won't cover the trans if this happens it seems like good insurance for around $250.

 

[Paladine71]

Anyone can do this. The only special tool needed is a brake line flare.

Come on now, Brodie. You know me. I can barely find the tires on the truck, mechanical stuff is not my expertise. :shame: