Bringing back the aftermarket for H3s

[rsc]

Derian06, I had the same thoughts as you about the exo cage. I don't want a full cage like I've seen on some Jeeps, but I like the ideas you've mentioned. Can't wait to see you put your ideas into metal!

 

[derian06]

Derian06, I had the same thoughts as you about the exo cage. I don't want a full cage like I've seen on some Jeeps, but I like the ideas you've mentioned. Can't wait to see you put your ideas into metal!

Since I dont have rocker panels I was going to build a set of rocksliders that make a cage up to where the doors come out then cut holes where some 2"x2" square tubing could slide in then put a bolt through to lock it in place that way it's removable and isnt that hard to put in. The fenders would be a separate permanently welded part and the sliders and cage would be removable. Now this isn't 3-D imaging but should be understandable

but this won't happen for a couple of years probably

 

[adventr]

I probably won't ever get around to making tube fenders or an exo cage, but I do plan to make a set of really nice bolt-on sliders that tuck up high and flow with the OE rocker panel.

 

[RamRod]

And those reservoir mounts for the 5160's don't forget!! [emoji3]


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[ABNTROOP]

I have been debating on cutting holes in my hood and making the nonfunctional Louver functional. That being said a kit to mount to the underside of the hood with a manually adjustable set of gates to close her up and minimize water intrusion during the winter months would be cool. It'd just be nice to vent the engine compartment on the hot summer crawls.

 

[chad]

I have been debating on cutting holes in my hood and making the nonfunctional Louver functional. That being said a kit to mount to the underside of the hood with a manually adjustable set of gates to close her up and minimize water intrusion during the winter months would be cool. It'd just be nice to vent the engine compartment on the hot summer crawls.

Now I really like that idea! Having the option to close during the wet times would be nice. Finding a good looking louver is hard or way over priced so if you came up with a nice one that looks oem at a good cost would be pretty high on my list to get.

 

[ABNTROOP]

See, and all I'm talking about is a close blue vent kit with a flange around the edge to pop rivet to the underside of the hood. Then we can cut the hood ourselves, install mesh, and modify the stock plastic Louver with vent slots.

 

[adventr]

Good ideas!

 

[USMC_315]

not sure if it's been mentioned, but tube doors or half doors would be an awesome product that I'd be interested in

 

[rsc]

See, and all I'm talking about is a close blue vent kit with a flange around the edge to pop rivet to the underside of the hood. Then we can cut the hood ourselves, install mesh, and modify the stock plastic Louver with vent slots.

This can be found and made yourself pretty easily without spending a ton if you are willing to make it yourself. Get a set of generic louvered vent panels and trim to your liking (like these: http://www.zoro.com/hoffman-louver-plate-kits/g/00233235/ ), a push/pull choke cable (Dorman P/N 55195 is $10.75), an appropriately sized rectangle or two of aluminum sheet (Lowes, Home Depot), some DIN rail material to cut to the length of the hole in the hood to hold the aluminum plate up tight. Add some automotive felt edge seal or 1/4" strips of the loop side of some velcro glued onto edges of the aluminum to make the piece slide easily but still seal well. Run the choke cable through the firewall up to the aluminum plate to pull it clear and push it closed. Just stay away from self-tapping screws, brown speaker wire and black electrical tape...those make it look like poo. Do it cleanly and everyone will ooh and ahh at your craftsmanship.

This fall/winter I think I will make an aluminum plate the size of the holes in the hood and hold them in place with rare earth magnets above and a strip of steel from above under my hood louvers to keep the heat in and weather out.

 

[H3HummerLineX]

I'm going to do this mod next. I removed the rubber seal at the back side of the hood this weekend during wheeling. The temps came down a good 6 degrees or so. Getting the hot air out definitely helps.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[ABNTROOP]

This can be found and made yourself pretty easily without spending a ton if you are willing to make it yourself. Get a set of generic louvered vent panels and trim to your liking (like these: http://www.zoro.com/hoffman-louver-plate-kits/g/00233235/ ), a push/pull choke cable (Dorman P/N 55195 is $10.75), an appropriately sized rectangle or two of aluminum sheet (Lowes, Home Depot), some DIN rail material to cut to the length of the hole in the hood to hold the aluminum plate up tight. Add some automotive felt edge seal or 1/4" strips of the loop side of some velcro glued onto edges of the aluminum to make the piece slide easily but still seal well. Run the choke cable through the firewall up to the aluminum plate to pull it clear and push it closed. Just stay away from self-tapping screws, brown speaker wire and black electrical tape...those make it look like poo. Do it cleanly and everyone will ooh and ahh at your craftsmanship.

This fall/winter I think I will make an aluminum plate the size of the holes in the hood and hold them in place with rare earth magnets above and a strip of steel from above under my hood louvers to keep the heat in and weather out.

yes, I could make them myself. And might. But the point of this thread was voicing ideas of kits we would like available...

 

[USMC_315]

Been playing around with some ideas for more storage. One thing that I noticed on my H3, was how unusable those rear side windows are... Plan on changing that.

I think those are really cool, definitely would buy

 

[adventr]

I think those are really cool, definitely would buy

Thanks! I think they'll be pretty slick on a H3 that's setup for overland style travel. Gives you more places to store your junk.

 

[H3HummerLineX]

Be cool to have it setup for rotopackx


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[humvee]

I don't know everything about how our front differentials are, BUT..
Would it be feasible to fabricate parts that allow us to bolt on an existing aem differential? A unit with higher gearing so we can match it at the rear diff.

I'd cancel my plans for an expensive (and illegal) engine swap

 

[adventr]

I don't know everything about how our front differentials are, BUT..
Would it be feasible to fabricate parts that allow us to bolt on an existing aem differential? A unit with higher gearing so we can match it at the rear diff.

I'd cancel my plans for an expensive (and illegal) engine swap

Realistically, it would be better to just do a solid-axle swap at that point. All of the GM 2500/3500 stuff is driver side diff, and I don't know of anything passenger side diff that would be any better than the cast iron e-locker H3 diff.


Also, still trying to get setup as a vendor before I offer parts for sale...

 

[derian06]

I don't know everything about how our front differentials are, BUT..
Would it be feasible to fabricate parts that allow us to bolt on an existing aem differential? A unit with higher gearing so we can match it at the rear diff.

I'd cancel my plans for an expensive (and illegal) engine swap

From what i've read you're better off just going to a SAS.

 

[adventr]

How about some high clearance rock rails? Strong, and relatively light (50lbs each). Won't rub the back of your pant let when climbing in or out of the truck.

Also working on some quick-disconnect steps for these, and will be capping the ends for better aesthetics.

These can also be made specifically for the H3T if needed.














And with the body removed:

 

[H3HummerLineX]

Looks great. Just. About like mine. The design will work well!!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[humvee]

Thanks for that! I guess I'll be doing that engine swap end of the year.

How about some high clearance rock rails? Strong, and relatively light (50lbs each). Won't rub the back of your pant let when climbing in or out of the truck.

The OEM sliders leave an unattractive gap when the daystar body lift is installed. Would be nice to close that gap as an option with these.

 

[derian06]

Thanks for that! I guess I'll be doing that engine swap end of the year.



The OEM sliders leave an unattractive gap when the daystar body lift is installed. Would be nice to close that gap as an option with these.

^^agree, i'd be willing to trade or sell the oem ones if that were an option.

 

[humvee]

I already have the oem sliders and a long list of mods in mind, so count me out of this one



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[amrg]

^^agree, i'd be willing to trade or sell the oem ones if that were an option.

I believe that 1" gap is perfect as it gives some space before the slider grabs onto the body in hard hits.
As for moving them up, I think the holes in the mounts can be drilled abit lower and as a result raise the sliders abit.

 

[adventr]

I could accommodate any amount of body lift you may have. That's no problem.

Still working on the removable steps. They're a must for me, as my wife will complain if it's difficult to get in and out of!