locker

[4speedfunk]

A wobble socket is exactly that. It fits a standard drive but it "wobbles"...much like a u-joint except it takes up less space. I got a set of em, and they come in real handy especially on bell housing bolts...an almost impossible to reach area.

 

[Woodtick]

That's what I thought. In these parts we call them pivot or knuckle .

 

[4speedfunk]

Diggle...just get a "master install kit". This will come with all new bearings, pinion seal, crush sleeve, shims, marking compound, and cover gasket. Some come with new ring gear bolts as well. I re-used my ring gear bolts when I re-geared but, I think GM may be using TTY bolts...and they should only be used for one install. Not sure about that.

NOTE: The 8.6 uses LEFT HAND ring gear bolts....righty-loosey, lefty-tighty. If you are a caveman...you'll need new ring gear bolts anyway because you'll snap them during dis-assembly.

 

[digglesworth]

Is that something gm offers cj....?

 

[4speedfunk]

Nah get em from the diff supplier (some master kits come with them). It usually works best to get everything you need from a single source. Less chances of screw-ups that way.

 

[CaseyS]

I'm sure there is a FAQ somewhere here on changing the transfer case out, but just in case you don't know. The encoder motor needs to come off to allow clearance to pull the transfer case. 4 10mm bolts. I spent an extra hour and a half when I gutted my truck for the engine swap trying to figure out how to get that thing out.

Also if you sit on your butt and prop it between your knees you can get it down without a jack or anything. I guess it weighs about 100 lbs or so. Same way going back in, it can be manhandled into place.

 

[06 H3]

yea, the install of a tcase isnt tough its the damn bolts that are a PITA to get to. I have a harbor freight close by. They sell the perfect tools for those type of jobs. If you are using a wobbly socket and dont wanna spend much that is the place to go. When we pulled out my brothers t case and tailhousing of the trans to do a rubicrawler (like a doubler t case setup) nothing would work to get the bolt out except the shortest little wrenches I have ever seen. They did the trick. I would look into those or wobbly sockets.

CJ is dead on for mentioning righty loosey and lefty tighty. Its the opposite and I learned that the hard way when installing my locker. After breaking almost every bolt I learned its the opposite and extracting those bolts are a PITA. I dropped it off at a local rear end shop and let them extract the bolts then finished the install in the driveway. Added a lot more hassle on the install.

 

[digglesworth]

I just gotta decide on the locker. CJ brought up ox lockers so I've been looking at those. A little more $$ but they don't have some of the issues the Eaton has.

 

[06 H3]

Ox lockers are ****in awesome!!!! My brother has one and they are kickass

 

[digglesworth]

I like the fact that they don't disengage when you change direction, if you have to back up... And they might engage quicker than the elocker. Not positive on that though. They are a little more pricey but so much that it's not an option.

 

[Renagade132]

I'm sorry to sound so ignorant but 1) what do "lockers" do? 2) How do they improve the truck? And 3) do they make them for H2's?

 

[Zach]

I'm sorry to sound so ignorant but 1) what do "lockers" do? 2) How do they improve the truck? And 3) do they make them for H2's?

Your 2 has a locker in the rear. It helps you get out of tough situations and steep climbs. On the fence of adding it to the front. I'm locked in the front. Got me out of a ****ed deal on Moab Rim, and help from Neo. But also blew a halfshaft probably due to it.

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

I'm sorry to sound so ignorant but 1) what do "lockers" do? 2) How do they improve the truck? And 3) do they make them for H2's?

1 - they make it so both wheels spin at the same rate, an open differential sends power to the wheel with the least traction
2 - you don't get stuck as often
3 - yes

 

[Highatop]

I like the fact that they don't disengage when you change direction, if you have to back up... And they might engage quicker than the elocker. Not positive on that though. They are a little more pricey but so much that it's not an option.

Ok, this is the first I've heard this. Maybe, I wasn't payin attention or wasn't askin the right questions. So, the elocker will disengage when changin gears or reverse? Also, is the Ox locker elec?

 

[digglesworth]

The ox locker can be configured for air, electric or manual engagement... It's your choice when ordering. And no, supposedly they don't unlock when you change directions. The eaton elocker, by design, will unlock when you back up. I think it will relock after a couple revolutions but will again unlock when you start forward again. The manufacturers of elocker are trying to design them with faster engagement so you don't need such a long run to get them fully engaged. The new Eaton design allows engagement in 1/4 turn of the ring gear as opposed to 1/2 turn of the previous design.

 

[4speedfunk]

Here's a vid of an Eaton E locking and un-locking. You can see how it works and why it needs some spin time to engage....

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a4io_6kavWM

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

I have my lockers run by two switches that bypass all computer control - there is no lag in locking the differential, and reversing, you don't notice it lock and unlock. What digs is talking about is the instructions which say it can take as much as 1 revolution for the locker to fully engage. In real life, it's not really the case.

 

[digglesworth]

Talked to a rep at Jegs. They are shipping the latest and greatest version of the elocker. It's $699 w/ a $70 rebate. I'm not sure if I can pass that up.

 

[Highatop]

Very temptin...

 

[4speedfunk]

I have my lockers run by two switches that bypass all computer control - there is no lag in locking the differential, and reversing, you don't notice it lock and unlock. What digs is talking about is the instructions which say it can take as much as 1 revolution for the locker to fully engage. In real life, it's not really the case.

False. It is the case. Watch the video. I can send you another video of mine...but it would look just like that. It has nothing to do with the vehicle's computer. I have a factory rear E-locker and an add-on front E-locker (wired direct like yours), and they both require a rotation to engage. There is no lag in the switch light coming on...and there is no lag in the coil being energized...but there is a lag inside the diff before it is truly locked. Sometimes you can hear the coil "click"...sometimes you can't. But the "click" is just the coil and it does not mean the diff is locked. It still takes a full turn to be locked. The notion of "instant lock" when you press the button, is not possible. I think many H3 owners don't realize this, and thats why there are so many issues with the pins inside the factory units getting rounded off. You can't just push the button and pour the pedal to it.

Also when you change direction...the Eaton will dis-engage. This doesn't mean it shuts-off at the switch...the coil is still energized. It just means you have have un-spun it, and you will once again need to spin it back the other way one full turn, to be truly locked. The intermediate time between pushing the button and spinning it to fully locked...is where you can do some damage. So anytime you push the button (or back-up)...make sure you allow ten feet of travel to get the diff fully locked. Its probably less than one full turn, if you are rolling in a straight line. But if you are in the middle of a turn, (with the wheels traveling at different speeds)..it could take up to a full rotation for the pins to align. Obviously, we rarely have room to travel 10-feet to engage a locker...but keep this in mind when you are wheeling an Eaton.

Many ultra-hard-core Jeepers frown on the Eaton E for this reason. If you want to stand your locked rig on its bumper, rev it back & forth between forward and reverse, all the while spinnin & grinnin...you need the ARB or the OX. Crash-locking an Eaton will guarantee an early failure.

 

[06 H3]

To prove the theory 4speed described get the rear wheels off the ground and engage the locker spin it forward it will lock then spin it back and it will unlock then relock

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

To prove the theory 4speed described get the rear wheels off the ground and engage the locker spin it forward it will lock then spin it back and it will unlock then relock

get all wheels off the ground

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

False. It is the case. Watch the video. I can send you another video of mine...but it would look just like that. It has nothing to do with the vehicle's computer. I have a factory rear E-locker and an add-on front E-locker (wired direct like yours), and they both require a rotation to engage. There is no lag in the switch light coming on...and there is no lag in the coil being energized...but there is a lag inside the diff before it is truly locked. Sometimes you can hear the coil "click"...sometimes you can't. But the "click" is just the coil and it does not mean the diff is locked. It still takes a full turn to be locked. The notion of "instant lock" when you press the button, is not possible. I think many H3 owners don't realize this, and thats why there are so many issues with the pins inside the factory units getting rounded off. You can't just push the button and pour the pedal to it.

Also when you change direction...the Eaton will dis-engage. This doesn't mean it shuts-off at the switch...the coil is still energized. It just means you have have un-spun it, and you will once again need to spin it back the other way one full turn, to be truly locked. The intermediate time between pushing the button and spinning it to fully locked...is where you can do some damage. So anytime you push the button (or back-up)...make sure you allow ten feet of travel to get the diff fully locked. Its probably less than one full turn, if you are rolling in a straight line. But if you are in the middle of a turn, (with the wheels traveling at different speeds)..it could take up to a full rotation for the pins to align. Obviously, we rarely have room to travel 10-feet to engage a locker...but keep this in mind when you are wheeling an Eaton.

Many ultra-hard-core Jeepers frown on the Eaton E for this reason. If you want to stand your locked rig on its bumper, rev it back & forth between forward and reverse, all the while spinnin & grinnin...you need the ARB or the OX. Crash-locking an Eaton will guarantee an early failure.

the last 3 or so seconds, when the ignition is turned off. The tires aren't spinning and it disengages. the tires don't need to spin for that ring to move....

and here's why I doubt you. I was on pavement, parked, and one of my pups put his foot on the front locker switch that engaged it (while I was out of the vehicle, engine off). I hadn't moved an inch, I had the wheels turned because I'd backed into the spot and went to move forward.... very loud clang and I didn't move at all. It was engaged and I hadn't moved.

 

[digglesworth]

The way I understand it is the the pins are not always perfectly lined up with the holes they slide into. When you push the button and energize the coil, it pushes the pins against the ring with the holes. You have to roll a little to rotate the ring til it lines up with the holes and slides in to lock... This is not always the same amount since those rings are always in different positions. Sometimes the pins are closer to the holes (takes less rotation) and sometimes they're further away (takes more rotation)... They base the engagement time on worst/longest case scenario.

I think for what I do, the elocker should be ok. I understand it's quirks and think i can take them into consideration when using it.

 

[4speedfunk]

Exactly. If everything is in perfect alignment...I suppose it would engage while sitting still. I've had 4 or 5 E-lockers roll thru my shop, and I bench test all of them. I connect a 12v source to them and usually get nothing. I have to insert one shaft into the carrier and rotate it by hand to get any action. Sometimes its only 10 degrees of rotations...other times its a full turn. SBG...your dog may have just hit the lottery that one time! My front locker seems to hit it once in awhile but, its dead quiet.

I had just the opposite happen at the Badlands last week. I had just climbed a steep ledge (while locked), and then immediately I un-locked (so I could turn). I drove about 20-30 feet put the truck in park and shut it off. We stood around and watched Diggle make the same climb...and eventually decided to line up our rigs and take a few poser pics. So I jumped in...put the truck in drive...and pulled forward about 15 feet to the edge of the cliff. Then...a very loud and harsh CLANK! sound. That was the rear locker finally "un-locking". I think I hadn't rolled far enough in a straight line for it to release. I was mid-turn, when I shut the truck off...and apparently things were still in a bind...and stayed that way, until I re-started, straightened out, and rolled far enough for it to release. I think the entire crowd heard it!

Regardless...they do work great. But I always try to limit how much I use them, and I always lock-early if it looks like I'm going to need it.