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That particular E-locked front diff is long gone. I do rebuild a lot of Hummer H3 front diffs. Grinding on take off could be any number of issues...most likely pinion bearings and/or broken teeth on the gearset. The front E-locker parts are non-existent, and nearly all of them I tear down...

Nope. Not planning a kit. Its not too difficult, though. All off-the-shelf parts and the only real mod is drilling and tapping the output shaft of the t-case. If you are running a spring-over or a bunch of lift, its a great mod.

First...The steering wheel must not turn when disconnected from the rack. Tie the steering wheel to the brake pedal to keep if from turning. Failure to do this will be lots of time & money to fix. Easily avoidable. Second...the front diff is held in with three bolts. Take those out, and...

Latest mod is a slip-yoke-eliminator on my BW4494. For quite some time, I have noticed that the standard rear driveshaft was running at a pretty extreme angle. Not only is this bad for the u-joints but, it also causes the factory slip-yoke to eventually wear out the bushing in the t-case...

Greaseable joints are hollow. The zirk threads into an "X" shaped hollow passage, which leads to the four cups that contain the bearings. In theory, the solid joints would be stronger because there is no grease tunnel in the middle of them. Almost all new vehicles have non-greasable (sealed)...

Might be able to pull out the broken pieces, and get a new one milled out of a steel billet.

I just put a new one on my rig. Sold the old one to a guy in PA (it got dirty). I have one more remaining on the shelf. The last one.

All great comments. Looks like I should just pull one apart...see what failed...rebuild it myself...put it back in. Probably the cheapest, highest quality fix available. Plus, there would be no need for chasing down swap parts, since I would be going back with exactly the same parts I took apart.

Yup. Got two left $1499, as of May 31, 2025.

I have several customers that are looking for motor swap info on their H3's. Nearly all of them have experienced: -oil pressure warning lights -random misfires -failed compression tests (one or more cylinders less than 80psi) -oil in the intake -leaking front and/or rear main seals -blown head...

Not much left. A nice set of wheels/tires.

Also…just like any 4x4 vehicle, don’t drive around on dry pavement in 4HI-Lock mode. Transfer cases hate this! The binding that occurs will put a tremendous load on the entire driveline. 4x4 vehicles (all of them) depend on sand, dirt, gravel, snow, ice, etc. to safely operate in a locked...

There is no 2WD. The H3 has (3) t-case modes. 4HI is the normal mode that includes variable output and torque splitting between front and rear axles. Basically…the front axle gets reduced power during cornering to prevent binding in the driveline. The split is preset at 60/40 but it can...

Airbags! It’s the ONLY way to properly support extra payload. Beefier springs, shackles, or shocks…are all band-aides. This because the spring mounts, shackles, and bushings, as well as the upper shock mounts, are not designed to be overloaded. During an overload, the springs will flatten...

I have the same exact issue. It’s not from water. My 08 has 54k miles and sits in the garage 99% of the time. The BCM is bone dry and has never been touched until I took it out last week. Because the H3 is such an electronic retard, it will often drain a battery if it sits for a month or so...

You don’t need lift keys. There should be plenty of thread left. Most likely your keys are not indexed properly…very common problem. This often happens when the suspension is disassembled to replace worn parts and doesn’t get put back together correctly. To fix this issue you must remove the...

Replace the passlock dohinky inside the steering column. You can get it on Amazon for around $90. Good for another ten years.

Sbc350's comment "Your welder should be able to fabricate a perch for the body mount. Pretty straight forward." is a good assessment. However, you must have something to actually weld-to! My experience with patching H3 frames is that you just keep blowing holes thru rotten metal every time you...

I am going to recommend that the owner remove all the seats, console and carpet. Flip the carpet & pad upside down and lay it in the sun for a week. Drop the headliner and inspect the connections at the sunroof (add hose clamps if necessary). Clean the drain tubes out (with plastic weed-eater...

I recently did this procedure to a customer’s T, and determined that most likely the hoses are not connected at the sunroof. There is staining at all four corners of the headliner, and the interior smells like a wet dog. After some head scratching I have decided to leave this task up to the...