• Welcome to H4O! For a reduced ad experience, please login or register with the forum.

What did you do with your H3 recently? NEW

Korby7

Well-Known Member
Messages
434
Location
Utah
I’ve had a plasti-dipped grill for a few years but end up redoing it every spring as the small rock chips allow water behind the plati-dip which turns to ice in the Utah winters and pushes the plati-dip off. May not be as much of an issue in warmer climates. I plan on going to bed liner after this winter. It’s kind of a PITA process to re-do that often. I also have behind the fake hood vent blacked out with plasti-dip and it has held up better where it doesn’t get the direct impact of road debris but is still getting chalky after roughly 2 years.
 

lowtrac

Well-Known Member
Messages
222
Location
Georgia
My H3’s previous owner plastidipped the mirrors. It’s been peeling since I got it, so I stripped it off this past weekend. Trying to decide if I like the black or chrome better. I’m thinking the chrome is a bit much since I’ve got so much black going on.

249414dab373662f5faa29f9c9c69f46.jpg


484198c115b945643b04efe02d3edc1f.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Lauren

Well-Known Member
Messages
127
Location
English in Dubai, UAE
It depends on your idea of survival. Its not an alternative to paint (which when done well would last 10+ years) but if you want an easy do it yourself thing and cheap then this is the way to go.
Paint it, wait to dry, dnt like it? Peel it (not easily but its peelable). It will probably last more than a year.

mmm okai, paint it is then! I'm about 99% sure I'll prefer it black. My H3 is a "gold" colour, and the previous owners stuck chrome on everything, and I mean stuck it... literally super glued the covers on :| .. but when I bought it I already knew that would be turned black because it's just a little too "glitzy/ bling" for my taste so just trying to find the best way to do it.
 

Lauren

Well-Known Member
Messages
127
Location
English in Dubai, UAE
I’ve had a plasti-dipped grill for a few years but end up redoing it every spring as the small rock chips allow water behind the plati-dip which turns to ice in the Utah winters and pushes the plati-dip off. May not be as much of an issue in warmer climates. I plan on going to bed liner after this winter. It’s kind of a PITA process to re-do that often. I also have behind the fake hood vent blacked out with plasti-dip and it has held up better where it doesn’t get the direct impact of road debris but is still getting chalky after roughly 2 years.

I see.. maybe the sand will cause the same effect here..? I don't know, I just want to do it in a way where it will last and I won't have to keep worrying about it. I have other things I need to fix on her first though (manifold sensors, y pipe, axle leak, diff bushes, sway bar needs replacing, starting issue... the list goes on)
 

Lauren

Well-Known Member
Messages
127
Location
English in Dubai, UAE
My H3’s previous owner plastidipped the mirrors. It’s been peeling since I got it, so I stripped it off this past weekend. Trying to decide if I like the black or chrome better. I’m thinking the chrome is a bit much since I’ve got so much black going on.

249414dab373662f5faa29f9c9c69f46.jpg


484198c115b945643b04efe02d3edc1f.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk




I think keep it all black.. like a stealthy ninja
 

derian06

Red Rockett
Messages
1,866
Location
Madison, AL
Rebuilt a trailer, new rear bumper being made. As a side note does anyone have the wiring schematics for our stock backup camera? I ripped the pins out on accident and don’t know which colors go in which slot.
42c53fa46e7091e4f99a6f45f99e08ad.jpg
badb5dc914d88e1a9343d73c0737aea0.jpg
a8dba73b67ae7f036550123b6293c3fb.jpg
443bc9c6a63468064725c33b63922ecd.jpg
 
Last edited:

humvee

Well-Known Member
Messages
507
Location
Doha, Qatar
Added another inch of lift by stacking another daystar set courtesy of amrg, old rockstars and 37” AT3s
fb7cbac0aa54d1684fe97f6380904654.jpg

a4ed72da4535c1315859bbe6ec3daa5c.jpg

09961f48feb132abd1191b0b54204ca2.jpg

7e73233e2e739ad0b06980263f9dd232.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

lsv_palana

Well-Known Member
Messages
383
Location
Kamchatka, Russia
My dear Amirican friends.. I am sorry for off topic but i need your help. i trying to register account on some amarican forums about goose and waterfowl hunting, but something wrong every time - confirmation email did not get to me - maybe because i am not in America... can you help me and register account for me and tell me login and password ? thank you...

Отправлено с моего SM-N950F через Tapatalk
 

Ghostbuster

Well-Known Member
Messages
862
Location
United States
I’m in the process of performing surgery on the H3.

I’m going to install new lower ball joints, bushings pretty much everywhere, upper control arms, tie rod ends, a cv axle, both axle seals, new hub assemblys, rotors and pads all the way around, and new brake fluid. I think that’s it, until I find something else to replace while I’ve got it torn apart.
I’m also going to re-paint the calipers.

Please wish me luck lol. If you have any tips or tricks, I’m all ears.


36376f91cc1b6f8bed84b6264de04978.jpg




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

lsv_palana

Well-Known Member
Messages
383
Location
Kamchatka, Russia
Hello dear friends ! I still have problem with knock 2 bank 2.. i replaced sensor, check harness connector to sensor. error still presist. It appears when i enter to water. i think there is some connector that have corroded contacts and water makes error.. who knows where else i can find connector that lead to knock sensor 2 bank 2 ? THANKS !

Отправлено с моего SM-N950F через Tapatalk
 

rascole

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,833
Location
Bellflower, CA
I’m in the process of performing surgery on the H3.

I’m going to install new lower ball joints, bushings pretty much everywhere, upper control arms, tie rod ends, a cv axle, both axle seals, new hub assemblys, rotors and pads all the way around, and new brake fluid. I think that’s it, until I find something else to replace while I’ve got it torn apart.
I’m also going to re-paint the calipers.

Please wish me luck lol. If you have any tips or tricks, I’m all ears.


36376f91cc1b6f8bed84b6264de04978.jpg




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Goodluck with the LCA rear bushing. PITA to remove.
 

H3V8

Well-Known Member
Messages
95
Location
Texas
What's your fender to center of hub measurements? Front looks a bit higher.

You're right. It's a little uneven. The front is a hair under 28 inches and the rear is only 27.5 inches. It may be the gear in the back weighing it down or the dreaded rancho sag I've seen people post about, who knows. I was thinking about maybe getting some Schwarttzy extended shackles to even it out.

My real issue is keeping the rear even (left-to-right). Since I bought the truck, one side always seems like it sits uneven. Sometimes the it seems back passenger side is lower, sometimes back driver side is lower. After the lift, it seems like the back passenger is lower most of the time. :huh:
 

lsv_palana

Well-Known Member
Messages
383
Location
Kamchatka, Russia
Thank you, but not that.. I mean where is the place in the car where is located connector from knock sensor 2 bank 2 ? First connector located on sensor... i have checked it twice ! it is good... no rust, contacts ok.. from this connector goes two wires and they hide in big pack of wires. My question is - where in the car i can find the connector to which these two wires from the knock sensor 2 bank 2 go ? I think only an electrician can help me. Or someone who know well electric scheme of hummer h3.... Thank you for reading my crazy writings... sorry for bad english.

Отправлено с моего SM-N950F через Tapatalk
 

citiboy

Well-Known Member
Messages
223
Location
Quebec
Thank you, but not that.. I mean where is the place in the car where is located connector from knock sensor 2 bank 2 ? First connector located on sensor... i have checked it twice ! it is good... no rust, contacts ok.. from this connector goes two wires and they hide in big pack of wires. My question is - where in the car i can find the connector to which these two wires from the knock sensor 2 bank 2 go ? I think only an electrician can help me. Or someone who know well electric scheme of hummer h3.... Thank you for reading my crazy writings... sorry for bad english.

Отправлено с моего SM-N950F через Tapatalk

Here's the schematic diagram for the knock sensors. Hope it helps.
 

Attachments

  • H3 Alpha Engine Performance Circuit.pdf
    92.2 KB · Views: 613
  • Knock Sensors Schematic.pdf
    128.8 KB · Views: 387
Last edited:

rascole

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,833
Location
Bellflower, CA
With the help of a great mechanic friend we replaced steering rack, power steering pump, idler pulley, tensioner pulley, both motor mounts ( bad shape), and both CV's. All were not too much of a PITA but it's always easier with a master mechanic. The motor mounts while inplace didn't look bad but a preemptive decision was a wise one. Both were bad, couldn't see the tears until after they were removed. If you have an I5 with over 100k you should consider replacing the motor mounts, vibrations are reduced a lot.
20190907_091817 (1280x720).jpg
20190907_091826 (1280x720).jpg
 

jphh20

Well-Known Member
Messages
173
Location
CT
Did you use an engine hoist to support the motor when replacing the engine mounts? How did you end up supporting the engine?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Bowser-II

Well-Known Member
Messages
270
Location
Hagerstown, Maryland
Did you use an engine hoist to support the motor when replacing the engine mounts? How did you end up supporting the engine?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yeah that’s a good question, some cars it’s easy to prop the motor up, high clearance 4x4’s maybe not so easy.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Top