When changing spark-plugs on I5 H3 for first time-What other parts should be changed

[ski.dive]

When changing spark-plugs on an I5 H3 for the first time-What other parts should be changed?

 

[mjferencak]

Well that all depends. While your changing your plugs take the time and look at the condition of your coil packs, serpentine belt, air filter, radiator coolant, power steering fluid, brake fluid reservoir, throttle body, MAF sensor, trans fluid, and engine oil. If any of those need attention then your list will grow and your wallet will lose some weight. It’s not a bad idea to get your truck up in the air and check for worn suspension parts too.


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[ludevick]

I cleaned up my coil packs and did another MAF and throttle body cleaning while I was at it.


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[alrock]

It also depends on mileage and what other services were done. Transfer case oil, diff oil may need to be changed. If you're only talking about a spark plug job, no other parts need to be replaced if only replacing spark plugs i.e. no coils need to be replaced or other wiring.

 

[Jeepwalker]

...speaking of underneath, are there certain items (besides the usual ball joints/steering) which a guy needs to look at in particular? Especially items that one might not think of, or easy to overlook?


Thanks

 

[JPaul]

suspension bushings, CV joints/boots, differential bushings, front differential crossmember (check the bushing and check the mounting points at the frame to make sure they are still solid, sometimes they will crack on the crossmember itself), wheel bearings, brakes, etc.

 

[Jeepwalker]

Thanks! I'll give those things a look.

 

[alrock]

Motor mounts, particularly the passenger side. And steering rack mount if it has not been upgraded.

 

[ludevick]

When inspecting motors mounts is it pretty obvious if they are in bad condition?


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[alrock]

Here's a pic of a new one next to one that's not quite failed, but very close. The rubber is starting to tear. I took this one out as we had the diff out anyway so access was easy. The second pic is one from before that's further along. With either one, you're looking for rubber that's torn around the edge allowing the center section (which bolts through the engine mount) to flop around. I don't think I have any pics of ones that are completely destroyed.

The metal insert is not connected to the rubber bulge - it's designed with a gap between those pieces. But you can see how that gap has grown in the old one vs the new one. I wouldn't worry about the gap itself, just the tearing.

 

[ludevick]

Perfect! I’ll climb under this week and see what I can find. I’m gonna re check my torsion bars so may as well.


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