Upgrade to Alpha.... to adventure package or no?

[Airborne]

Ok gentlemen after much deliberation and exhaustive efforts to squeeze every hp I could out of the I5 the time has come....
This time around I am going to do it right.
I am coming from a base 07 non adventure package. You may be able to tell from my sig that I have tried every thing I could aside from a turbo and supercharger to improve the setup I have now. It runs infinitely better than before. Much much more power. My buddy has a V8 tundra and I can pull on him pretty easily now. Granted he only has an intake and cat back exhaust.

However more displacement to work with is what I really want. My end goal is to make a nice dd/crawler with: spring over rear, rancho up front, 35-37 in tires, nice winch, etc etc etc. Most of you already have those set ups. The I5, after what I have done to it, could handle all that very easily. But....I would like to have all that AND tow as well. Utah is by no means flat. If you aren't going up you are going down.
So I NEED the V8
I have looked at the H2's but the mpgs really really kill me. Less than 10 mpg standard is rough.

I have been looking at Alpha's for a few months now. Every day.

To sum it up.... For those of you that have the rear lockers do you find that you really use them a lot? I am very happy with the way my 3 performs off road right now. Miles ahead of my last Grand Cherokee. Which was a V8 .
My dad also has a 3 an 08 but with the adventure package. He has used his locker exactly 1 time in the last 3 years.

I need the V8 with a tow package. But do I need the locker? If I can't get one with a locker, how difficult is it to throw one on later?
They are just very few and far between. The people that have them always want $5000-7,000 more than a truck without it. Even if they don't even know what the hell it is or if the truck has one.

 

[06 H3]

If I could do it all over again I would do 5.3L V8, Front/rear lockers, Rancho front, spring over rear, 4:1 t case, regear diffs from alpha ratio (4.10) to I5 ratio (4.56) PCM tune, and run 345/75/16 (37in KM2s)

But instead I am now trying to figure out how to make my I5 run with bigger tires, I.E. deal with it, regear by ditching the front diff and run 5.13s, supercharge the I5 (wont happen to costly) save yourself the headache if your not far into it.

 

[cgalpha08]

I'd say get it with lockers if you can swing it...your going to end up paying over a grand for one installed anyway

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

 

[Chocflip201]

If you are really lucky you will find a dealer who doesn't know they have an adv. package. But most of them go off VIN numbers for resale value anyways.

In my opinion. An alpha would be nice, but I don't regret getting the I5 for sure, but the adv package is definitely a must.

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

I used my lockers yesterday, still had to winch once, but I'm not giving up my lockers.

 

[Highatop]

If your really wheelin your rig then, yes adv package. Me, I wheel mine and wish I had that adv package. If you feel your not goin to did lockers, then put that money into your tow package w/ the V8. Also, take off all your mods you can before tradin it in( if you still have the OEM parts). That will save you some money and the dealer will not give you much for your mods anyway. Good luck

 

[3Hummers]

The 4:1 in the offroad package is a huge benefit even if you never use the locker.

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

also, without starting yet another debate - I'll add this, and won't argue the point - the electric lockers are better than an ARB, especially for occasional use because there aren't seals to leak or a compressor to buy.

 

[RamRod]

also, without starting yet another debate - I'll add this, and won't argue the point - the electric lockers are better than an ARB, especially for occasional use because there aren't seals to leak or a compressor to buy.

Plus are more affordable!

 

[Airborne]

If I could do it all over again I would do 5.3L V8, Front/rear lockers, Rancho front, spring over rear, 4:1 t case, regear diffs from alpha ratio (4.10) to I5 ratio (4.56) PCM tune, and run 345/75/16 (37in KM2s)

But instead I am now trying to figure out how to make my I5 run with bigger tires, I.E. deal with it, regear by ditching the front diff and run 5.13s, supercharge the I5 (wont happen to costly) save yourself the headache if your not far into it.

Like this one?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hummer-H3-S...81398127552&pt=US_Cars_Trucks#ht_19224wt_1068

I look at it every day hoping a bag of money is going to fall out of the sky. I'm tempted to sell the 50 cal to support this buy.

 

[Airborne]

So it looks pretty unanimous that the locker if I plan to wheel it. Which I do. I am in UT of all places. The guys that have it say its a must, the guys who don't say it's a must and jealously look on..

Moving back, how difficult is it to to add an e locker later? I can't rebuild an engine (then again I haven't tried) but I am decently mechanically inclined and have zero problems doing things my self. Any ideas of an after the fact added locker and 4:1 T case as in: cost and pitd-ness? (cough....) Mr. 06 H3?? Or any others that have experience or knowledge of doing this or maybe you have looked into yourself....

 

[3rdH3]

Like this one?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hummer-H3-S...81398127552&pt=US_Cars_Trucks#ht_19224wt_1068

I look at it every day hoping a bag of money is going to fall out of the sky. I'm tempted to sell the 50 cal to support this buy.

I would jump on that one in a second if it checks out okay. It is a Championship Edition that someone has put an Alpha Badge on the tailgate. The tale tale sign is that "Alpha" is not embroided in the headrest. The Championship Edition came with fender flares, red calipers, brush guard, black vinyl on the hood, a V8 and lockers. I think UCP and Rock rails also even though this one has nerf bars. It is either a genuine CE or someone has gone to a lot of trouble to make it look like one.

 

[Bigunit]

It is indeed a rare CE - at a great price. It won't last long.

Sent from my XT1080 using Tapataint

 

[Airborne]

Son of a bitch you guys are right I didnt even pay attention to the headrests. I just thought it was odd that it didn't have the alpha symbol on them but didn't even consider it was a CE.
Now I would really love to make it happen... Who wants to by a 50 cal????

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

So it looks pretty unanimous that the locker if I plan to wheel it. Which I do. I am in UT of all places. The guys that have it say its a must, the guys who don't say it's a must and jealously look on..

Moving back, how difficult is it to to add an e locker later? I can't rebuild an engine (then again I haven't tried) but I am decently mechanically inclined and have zero problems doing things my self. Any ideas of an after the fact added locker and 4:1 T case as in: cost and pitd-ness? (cough....) Mr. 06 H3?? Or any others that have experience or knowledge of doing this or maybe you have looked into yourself....

electric lockers cost ~ $500 each and cost ~$500 to have installed (each).
a 4:1 transfer case can be had on ebay for between $1,000 and $2,500 - the last one I bought was 1k, but I've not found another that low-priced since.

 

[skeptic]

My perspective - the reason I have an H2 is because I gave up trying to find a local H3 Alpha w/offroad package. I don't get sub 10mpg, I get 12.2 mpg. Plus, an '07 or older H2 can be found significantly cheaper than an H3 Alpha, and they are easy to find. I'm not trying to talk you into an H2, I'm just saying don't let the $$ part of the mpgs be the deciding factor.

Assuming you can pick up an H2 for $5k less than an H3 Alpha/offroad, the H2 gets 12mpg, the H3 gets 16mpg, and gas is $4/gallon it's going to take more than 60,000 miles before the H3 becomes cheaper in the long run (all else being equal).

 

[Airborne]

electric lockers cost ~ $500 each and cost ~$500 to have installed (each).
a 4:1 transfer case can be had on ebay for between $1,000 and $2,500 - the last one I bought was 1k, but I've not found another that low-priced since.

So I'm looking at maybe... $2,000-$3000 realistically? Just for the rear and T case. That isn't so hard to swallow.
I'm a little mad at my self now because I have passed on some killer deals for alphas but was holding out waiting for one with the locking rear.

 

[Airborne]

My perspective - the reason I have an H2 is because I gave up trying to find a local H3 Alpha w/offroad package. I don't get sub 10mpg, I get 12.2 mpg. Plus, an '07 or older H2 can be found significantly cheaper than an H3 Alpha, and they are easy to find. I'm not trying to talk you into an H2, I'm just saying don't let the $$ part of the mpgs be the deciding factor.

Assuming you can pick up an H2 for $5k less than an H3 Alpha/offroad, the H2 gets 12mpg, the H3 gets 16mpg, and gas is $4/gallon it's going to take more than 60,000 miles before the H3 becomes cheaper in the long run (all else being equal).

Then Jack comes along with his damn sound logic. So Jack do you notice that the H2 is that much bigger than the your 3T was? I really like the SUT's but they just seem so much bigger than the 3's. That's one of the main reasons why I like the 3 more a little bit more agile and can fit into tighter spaces. Correct me if it's not like that.

 

[3Hummers]

The H2 is considerably larger than the H3 or T. Sometimes on the trail it seems even larger. Very capable and comfortable 4x4 though.

 

[4speedfunk]

Yeah...I like the small Hummer. Trails around here are very tight, and taking an H2 off road will certainly result in some scrapes & dents. Mileage?....seriously, who cares! If you have any interest at all in mileage you wouldn't even be on this forum. My 5-cyl. H3 gets 13mpg...period. No matter how you drive it. Its highly modified and I consider 13mpg very good for a vehicle that can do what it can. I'm a hard-core ADV PAK believer. However, its really not expensive or difficult to add the two key components the AP gives you: Lockers and 4:1 t-case.

4:1 TRANSFER CASE
I just bought a brand new AP t-case from GM...$1230 out the door (with tax). Shop around online for the best deal. Installation was really easy...it practically jumped out of the box and onto the tailshaft of the tranny!

LOCKERS
On the lockers...I feel they are much less critical than the 4:1 t-case but, they still make a huge improvement in certain spots. I have Eatons installed in both axles, and my attitude is...if you have the axle apart for some reason...by all means add a locker. But, I'm not sure I would mess with it unless I was doing a rebuild or repair. If you have broken parts (like a ring & pinion or bad bearings)...then it makes more sense to upgrade to a locker. If you can score a good, used, pre-assembled AP axle assembly for $700 or so (front or rear)...its cost-effective to swap the entire axle out. This very easy and cheap because you are not cracking anything open. You don't need any special tools or expensive internal parts...just un-bolt your existing axle...kick it out of the way, and bolt the new one in. Rear axles with lockers are very common...in 4.56 and 4.10 versions. Fronts with lockers are more scarce...09-up only.

Its important to note that if you wish to install a brand new Eaton E-locker in the 8.6" 10-bolt rear....get the newer version. The ones that came from the factory (with the AP option), have been discontinued and Eaton has replaced them with a better design. This news has made me re-think my hard-core stance on finding a factory AP when Hummer shopping. I would rather focus on finding the H3 I want in the condition I want...and then I can add the AP stuff myself. Don't get me wrong...the AP is still a "big harry deal" and it's definitely a big improvement over the base model. But, I won't be paying any extra money for one...it too easy and cheap to make your own.

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

Assuming you can pick up an H2 for $5k less than an H3 Alpha/offroad, the H2 gets 12mpg, the H3 gets 16mpg, and gas is $4/gallon it's going to take more than 60,000 miles before the H3 becomes cheaper in the long run (all else being equal).

so you're one of "those guys" who my wife uses to illustrate that I drive too fast.... you create a lot of discord in my home (I claim it's the higher alcohol in our gas - but still, discord... stop it )

The only way a H2 gets 12 or an H3 Alpha gets 16 is the same. On a tow rope behind my 83 Chev diesel truck (it gets 13 towing an H2, 16 towing an H3... believe it or not, I know this by experience). Real world - h2 gets 9 or 10, H3 alpha gets 12-14 (and 14 is pretty rare).

 

[chaos254]

Most dealers around here dont even know what trucks have the adventure package. thats how I got a great deal on my 08 adventure

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

 

[Airborne]

Yeah...I like the small Hummer. Trails around here are very tight, and taking an H2 off road will certainly result in some scrapes & dents. Mileage?....seriously, who cares! If you have any interest at all in mileage you wouldn't even be on this forum. My 5-cyl. H3 gets 13mpg...period. No matter how you drive it. Its highly modified and I consider 13mpg very good for a vehicle that can do what it can. I'm a hard-core ADV PAK believer. However, its really not expensive or difficult to add the two key components the AP gives you: Lockers and 4:1 t-case.

4:1 TRANSFER CASE
I just bought a brand new AP t-case from GM...$1230 out the door (with tax). Shop around online for the best deal. Installation was really easy...it practically jumped out of the box and onto the tailshaft of the tranny!

LOCKERS
On the lockers...I feel they are much less critical than the 4:1 t-case but, they still make a huge improvement in certain spots. I have Eatons installed in both axles, and my attitude is...if you have the axle apart for some reason...by all means add a locker. But, I'm not sure I would mess with it unless I was doing a rebuild or repair. If you have broken parts (like a ring & pinion or bad bearings)...then it makes more sense to upgrade to a locker. If you can score a good, used, pre-assembled AP axle assembly for $700 or so (front or rear)...its cost-effective to swap the entire axle out. This very easy and cheap because you are not cracking anything open. You don't need any special tools or expensive internal parts...just un-bolt your existing axle...kick it out of the way, and bolt the new one in. Rear axles with lockers are very common...in 4.56 and 4.10 versions. Fronts with lockers are more scarce...09-up only.

Its important to note that if you wish to install a brand new Eaton E-locker in the 8.6" 10-bolt rear....get the newer version. The ones that came from the factory (with the AP option), have been discontinued and Eaton has replaced them with a better design. This news has made me re-think my hard-core stance on finding a factory AP when Hummer shopping. I would rather focus on finding the H3 I want in the condition I want...and then I can add the AP stuff myself. Don't get me wrong...the AP is still a "big harry deal" and it's definitely a big improvement over the base model. But, I won't be paying any extra money for one...it too easy and cheap to make your own.

Ya the mileage thing was just a because I used to get 13 all the time too but then did all the stuff in my sig and it's quite a bit more. I was only semi-concerned about mileage as it is my DD.

Based on the answer to the T case that sums it up for me. I am confident I can do that pretty easily. It might not jump out of the box for me but after I give him a few beggan strips I might be able to coax him on to the tranny.

I really like that idea of adding a better locker later on because like I said I have passed on some killer deals on alphas. Locker or not Alpha with a tow package is what I will look at. I will throw on the T case soon after and then decide if I need the locker.

4Speed when the time comes for the T case I will pick your brain a bit to see the best way to go about it if that is ok with you...

 

[skeptic]

Then Jack comes along with his damn sound logic. So Jack do you notice that the H2 is that much bigger than the your 3T was? I really like the SUT's but they just seem so much bigger than the 3's. That's one of the main reasons why I like the 3 more a little bit more agile and can fit into tighter spaces. Correct me if it's not like that.

I haven't had a chance to wheel the 2 yet so I can't really comment on how it is on trails. As far as in town, the 2 is wider but not as long as the T and the ~12" shorter wheelbase for the 2 is very noticeable. To be honest, I'd put them about equal for being a PITA for parking. Obviously when just driving down the road neither one has any issues. My old H3 was MUCH easier when it comes to parking lots and tight spaces so if you were to go with an H3T or an H2 you WILL notice the difference.

I'm quite happy with my H2, but ignoring cost and availability I still believe an '09/'10 H3 Alpha w/offroad package is the most practical and capable Hummer overall. The H2 gets the nod for the nicer ride and more interior cargo room. Now that I've owned an H3, H3T, and H2 I would not recommend any one over any of the others - it all depends on your needs. The only two recommendations I will make are to get something with a V8 (I'll never buy an I5 H3/T again), and if you want to wheel a 3 or 3T get the offroad package with a strong preference for '09/'10 for the front locker.

so you're one of "those guys" who my wife uses to illustrate that I drive too fast.... you create a lot of discord in my home (I claim it's the higher alcohol in our gas - but still, discord... stop it )

The only way a H2 gets 12 or an H3 Alpha gets 16 is the same. On a tow rope behind my 83 Chev diesel truck (it gets 13 towing an H2, 16 towing an H3... believe it or not, I know this by experience). Real world - h2 gets 9 or 10, H3 alpha gets 12-14 (and 14 is pretty rare).

According to the trip computer, I get 12.2. I reset it when I first bought it in December, and it quickly stabilized at 12.2. A couple weeks ago I reset it, and within a week it was at 12.2 where it has stayed. Granted, I'm essentially stock - even has stock sized BFG AT KOs. Roughly 50/50 city vs highway, normal starts and stops, and generally 5-7 mph over the speed limit. Not sure what you are running for tires, but I have no doubt that if I ever get around to buying more aggressive 37" tires my mpg will drop.

In any event, the general point is still valid. The price per mile difference for fuel is somewhere in the neighborhood of a dime or less meaning it will take 10,000+ miles to make up each $1k difference in purchase price.

 

[4speedfunk]

One more comment.

I noticed that once I dropped to 13mpg...it seemed to stay there. No matter what. I'm now running 6"+ of lift, 37" tires, 5.13 gears, bumpers, full-time solid front axle, etc....and it STILL gets 13mpg. That's only slightly less than it got with the Rancho, 4.56s, and 35"s. So I guess you could call that a plateau...however awful it might seem. I have not checked but, it also probably gets the same mileage with my small trailer in tow.