LS12FAST4U
Well-Known Member
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- 80
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- Idaho
I will see if I can get it cheap. If not I will keep looking. Thanks for the info.
All great info MaxPF. I actually got a line on a 10-bolt and I'm going to look at it Monday. Its got an Eaton E-locker, 4.56s, chro-mo shafts, and Warn lockouts....allegedly on a fresh rebuild. I assume its a 30-spline version but, I'll know once I take a closer look. It's a 3/4-ton, 8-lug version.
Normally I don't mess with 10-bolts but, this one is already loaded with great parts and its basically a slam-dunk for a H3 swap...simply needs some ABS hubs and 3-link bracketry. Dimensionally...the corp-10 and Dana 44 are identical, and they share the same parts out at the knuckles.
But, I prefer the Dana 44 simply because their are so many goodies out there for them. Danas came in GM, Ford, Dodge, Jeep, International, blah blah...so there are many more sources to get parts from (especially used parts). Corp 10's only came in GM trucks, and you rarely find used off-road parts so you are more likely to be forced to buy all new stuff which gets expensive.
I run the early Dana knuckles exclusively...casting numbers C36519 & C36520. These are the flat-tops with the top-down taper that you speak of. I've tried a couple different times, and I cannot get high-steer to fit on an H3 with the box I run, so I just use low steer with a cross-over drag-link. The top-down tapered knuckles place the tie rod up high enough, that I don't see the need for a true high-steer.
Around here, Corp 10s and Dana 44s (GM & otherwise), are like dandelions. If possible try to find one with some goodies in it...it will be much cheaper in the long run. If you start with a bone stock axle, you'll end up with $3000 by the time you're done pimpin it out. Locker, chro-mo shafts, gears, bearings, cover, knuckles, lock-outs, etc....add up quickly. You don't necessarily need all the goodies but if you plan to wheel with 35" or 37"...the shafts in particular, is money well spent.