Snap, Crackle, POP!

[07Custom]

So apparently those elf fuks from the rice crispy commercials are living in my truck somewhere. Ahhh!!! :no:

There's an awful popping sound when I try to take off. Almost no speed gain...then a harsh jolt and POP! I can, however let the transmission just pull me along. Sometimes, when attempting to give the truck a little throttle the gears don't catch and I get High RPMs and no movement....awful grinding sound. I'm thinking transmission.

I wasn't even able to drive it up my almost flat driveway. I unlocked my hubs up front and popped it into 2hi locked and it went up without any noise, but I didn't drive it fast enough or long enough to see if the issue returned. I have already checked the gears in my ARB and they're fine. The U-joints seem okay, the drive shafts are stiff as well.

Maybe my hubs are toast? Would that cause a lack of movement, grinding and popping? I really don't want my transmission to be shredded.

What else can I check before calling it a day and going broke?! Dual vehicle issues are killing me!

 

[Ghostbuster]

So you put it in 2hi lock and got no noise. So it shouldn't be the hubs right? I mean they are turning no matter what, so you should have heard it if they were to blame.

So my best guess is t case and or tranny, since you checked everything else.

Best of luck to you.

Maybe now is a great time to upgrade some parts while your at it.

 

[07Custom]

it's definitely my end goal to have the truck as safe and operational as possible, only issue is that I'm in a battle with a auto company in California regarding my car...long shiity story. Plus the holidays coming up, funds are going faster than they're coming in. Frustrated to say the least.

 

[rsc]

I would have said your transmission is slipping and grinding, except you said that part about locking out the front in Hi-Lock. That leads me to believe it is the transfer case, does it only happen when the front hubs are locked?

 

[07Custom]

I would have said your transmission is slipping and grinding, except you said that part about locking out the front in Hi-Lock. That leads me to believe it is the transfer case, does it only happen when the front hubs are locked?

I'm definitely going to have to check it out more. My truck's differential is taken apart righ now so I'd have to seal it and fill it to test it more. It reminded me so much of a transmission issue, it hurt my heart :whaa:



I am wondering where to start, maybe reconnect the differential cover and take it for a test drive?

would I have to take the diff apart a gain to check other things, I don't want to keep pouring money into fluids and bla bla if I'm might need a transmnission.

 

[4speedfunk]

Does it sound like this?

Stop! Stop!...

[video=youtube;C-xHaFZcTcY]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C-xHaFZcTcY[/video]

 

[CaseyS]

What is 2hi locked? What transfer case are you running in that custom rig?

 

[06 H3]

Here are the reasons its not a tcase. His t case is stock. If he is not moving in 4hi unlocked that leads me to believe it is the front axle. Remember if you have a blown front axle (I know many of you have!) and try to move in 4 hi unlocked the t case will send power to the axle with the least amount of resistance, which means you wont move because its going to the blown axle. Now if you put it in 4 hi locked and you move its an axle issue not t case issue, if its in 4hi locked and you still dont move its a t case or trans issue, most likely t case.

Now you put it in 4 hi locked and you move just fine, I am 99.9% sure its not a t case issue. I am willing to bet you its the front axle. Most common is hubs, If you have revving up and you dont go anywhere or you move just a tad then its probably a stripped hub, if you move a tad it might be because its grabbing but at the same time it wont grab fully because its stripped. Hubs are 100 bucks. Part # is 299090 from warn. Now if your tight on time and cash you go ahead and unlock the hubs put it in 4 hi lock and drive around you will be fine.

CJ and I are here to help but we can only do so much. Hubs are 100 bucks and there are youtube videos of hub install the The big snap ring has to go in. The little one on the axle shaft itself probably wont fit on yours. It does on some axles but not all. Mine doesnt and CJ's dont and thats just fine.

[video=youtube;txoD4_kQ-3I]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=txoD4_kQ-3I[/video]

now onto your other issues...The steering will get fixed eventually but for the safety of yourself and girlfriend go work on ABS first. There is no point in buying used rotors. Go to any auto parts store, get some rotors and brake pads when you can afford it. Then store them in the garage, closet, anywhere. When you have some extra cash, buy some calipers those your chances of used calipers are slightly higher but you still might have to buy off of rock auto. Remember OEM is best and with the core charge of others its a wash. Then store that, then when you have some more cash work on CJ's ABS hubs. Then when you get it all together install it! Then you can slam on your brakes at 80 mph and not risk death, or atleast lower your risk by a metric **** ton.

After all that then we will work on your steering.

Leave the lotus alone for a bit and fix the damn hummer! :wink:

 

[4speedfunk]

Yup. I'm in complete agreement...not the tranny or the t-case. But, what I can't figure out is all the other symptoms described in the original post. Brakes not working...then working. Smoking. Metal shavings. Caliper hanging. NONE of those would be caused by a simple stripped hub. I suspect something along these lines...

D'oh!