SMA roof lights

[SolidusJ]

OK so the SMA lights come with one harness for both the lights and each light having it's own relays. The kit came with one switch to turn on one light bar on at a time, well I gave each light bar its owns switch and was able to have the front bar on and the rear at the same time..... now I know why the kit came with one switch. So what now how can I unF$%$# this mess I have?

 

[alrock]

I'm a bit confused. Did the original kit have a three position switch - Front, Rear and Off? And it shares one wiring harness but then you replaced the one switch with two independent switches?

 

[Ron46]

Looks good! :cheers:Ive always like the sma roof lights, just never found a good deal on one lol.

 

[SolidusJ]

I'm a bit confused. Did the original kit have a three position switch - Front, Rear and Off? And it shares one wiring harness but then you replaced the one switch with two independent switches?

That's the switch was front, off, rear. The wires to the switch was red for the front yellow for the rear and white for the ground so all I did was put two wires from and ground and had and on and off switch for the lights. I upgraded and power and ground wires to 10G because this is not the first time this has happen, last time it was the main power and ground wire that was F@$?!. Now it's just the wires that links to the relays.

 

[SolidusJ]

Looks good! :cheers:Ive always like the sma roof lights, just never found a good deal on one lol.

I like them I just wish they were more powerful, maybe one day I'll pick up 6 10" R.I. LED light and remove the old lights on the bar and intstall the LEDs and have the middle one point froward and the outter two angle to point some what out wards for both the light bars. But if the harness is going to fry with 8 littles lights how the hell with it hold up to 6 10" light bars????

 

[Gunner_45]

Ouch ! ! !

That is gonna be a pain in the ass to replace those burned wires from front to back on that harness (I know I would not trust a sectional repair).

Is it just the SMA harness that got shorted or is it the factory stuff as well?

 

[SolidusJ]

Just the SMA harness, should I upgrade all the wires to 10G?

 

[SolidusJ]

Upgrade all the wires to 10G but now I think my relays are popped. Lights still work when I tap them to the battery, anyway I can remove the relays or are they a must to have?

 

[alrock]

You need to have relays unless you have really big clunky switches that can handle the amp load

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[SolidusJ]

So this where I stand right now, the new power wire has a 30amp fuse so i don't melt the harness again. I've matched the front light switch to the front light bar and the same for the rear here's where things don't add up. With new relays in only thing I'm not sure of is the placement of the light bar wire and the wire to the switch, with the relay in I should be getting 12V of power to the end of the light switch wires but I'm getting nothing. I have a good ground because and I tap the end of the wire that links to the relay on the battery the other end of the wires comes up with 12v. I'm getting power all the way to the fuse on the new power wire but after that I get nothing. Is that 30 amp fuse not enough to turn on the lights or should I just forget on trying to put in a fuse????

 

[alrock]

Along the lines of what Gunner said, it may be a heck of a lot easier to wire this thing from scratch, assuming at least the wires coming from the light bars are fine. You'll probably spend less time putting in a new set of wires that fixing a damaged set.

30W fuse should be adequate as your amp draw is probably around 18 amps or less per light par (assuming 4 lights at 55 watts each.) If those are 35 watts you are likely at about 12 amp draw. With the relay in you'll get 12V to the end of the wires at the lights only if

1. fuse isn't blown
2. relay isn't blown
3. switch isn't blown (and is turned on)
4. all wiring is done correctly, both in the order of the wires at the relay and quality of connection. Double check your relay wiring - I keep a chart with me when I do it to make sure I don't swap wires
5. no other breaks in the wires
6. grounds for switch, relay and lights are all intact

Where did you put that fuse? Between the battery and the relay? And you have 12 volts on one side of the fuse but not the other? If so you either have a bad fuse, bad fuse holder or a bad connection (depending on where you are measuring). Verify that the fuse isn't blown and is fully seated.

 

[SolidusJ]

Trust me its a control mess lol. The fuse is before the relay and I have the power wire to the fuse box with the E-fan. Fuse is good to go so the next thing I'm going to do is poke the power wire with the fluke meter after the fuse and see what I i get..... I'm getting 12V after the fuse and all the way to the where the wire plugs into the relay. I'm really ticked!!!!!

 

[Gunner_45]

Damn dude!

You have a Sentinel from the Matrix under your hood !

 

[SolidusJ]

Damn dude! You have a Sentinel from the Matrix under your hood !

LMAO that just made my morning!!!! I need to trim up the wires just a little bit but trust me I know what every wire is made to do!!!!

 

[Gunner_45]

That is almost one of those situations where you need to get a sheet of plywood and some nails to make you a wiring jig.

Figure it out, measure it out then tape/shrink it up and call it a done deal.

Out of curiosity, do you have two wires (positive/ground) for each of the eight lights or do the bars use a common ground?

 

[alrock]

Question - isn't it better for relays to be in a vertical position, at least over the long term? As (most) are mechanical (electro magnetic) I heard they will last longer when vertical and would be less prone to failure. Could be a myth.

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[SolidusJ]

That is almost one of those situations where you need to get a sheet of plywood and some nails to make you a wiring jig.

Figure it out, measure it out then tape/shrink it up and call it a done deal.

Out of curiosity, do you have two wires (positive/ground) for each of the eight lights or do the bars use a common ground?

Right out of the light bar there is one power wire and one ground wire. I'm losing my damn mind over this!!!!!!

 

[ReconH3]

You're a lot braver than I would ever be. I'm electrically deficient.


"Ex Umbris Venimus"

Sent from my iPhone

 

[SolidusJ]

You're a lot braver than I would ever be. I'm electrically deficient.


"Ex Umbris Venimus"

Sent from my iPhone

I try, nothing worst like having off road light that are just for show.... :sigh:

 

[ReconH3]

I couldn't agree with you more.


"Ex Umbris Venimus"

Sent from my iPhone

 

[Gunner_45]

I would have thought some of the 12v gurus would have piped in by now and offered up some advice.

OK, four wires, two per bar......A lot simpler that I expected.

Must be a lot going on inside that lightbar connection wise.

Another stupid question......Where are you getting power for the "trigger wires" to the relays?

Maybe the relays are not getting the juice they need to energize the circuit.....

 

[SolidusJ]

The mean harness cam with 3 wires for the switch. Red for the front, yellow for the rear and white for the ground. Now when I have the switch power to the relay the end of the wires should be pulling 12v at all time like in the pass but now nothing. I have to remove the switch wire from the relay and tap it to the battery to pull 12v at the other end. Only thing I can think is bad relays....

 

[SolidusJ]

I THINK I SLOVED IT!!!!! Nothing has been done because it dark and my wife had enough of be playing with the T for today but after a closer look at my pictures I seen that the power wire from the fuse box there are 2 wire that links to the relay AND power with that go to the damn switch!!!!!! If the damn switch doesn't have damn power it can't tell the relay to close the system and trun on the damn lights!!!!!! The switch wires always had 12v no matter if it's plug in the relay or not because there is a main power wire was also link to the switch!!!!!!!! Tracking or is this as clear as mud?

 

[alrock]

Hopefully you end up with something like this

For my switch supply in the center stack I tapped into the 12V accessory wires since they are always on.

 

[SolidusJ]

hopefully you end up with something like this

for my switch supply in the center stack i tapped into the 12v accessory wires since they are always on.

thank you so damn much i've been looking for something like your picture high and damn low!!!!