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Question About Higher Mileage H3s

Acer4LO

Well-Known Member
Messages
801
Location
Illinois
So I recently got a buddy of mine into wheeling and he is considering buying an H3 Alpha. We searched around and have seemed to find a decently priced one. His only worry is that it has 135k miles on it and now is hesitant to pull the trigger. Has anyone with the 5.3 had any problems with the engine, trans, or anything else? Do you guys think that is too high to get started? He is probably going to use it primarily for wheeling but may also drive to work (Less than 20 miles round trip).
 

Enter Hummer

Well-Known Member
Messages
244
Location
Southwest
Mines an I5 but I bought it at 185k no questions asked, mainly because Im familiar with high mile trucks (every toyota has 1/4 million miles or more). Mine is on its way to 200k and still running strong. Chevys are known to go way longer than 135k miles if properly taken care of. I dont even know if anyone considers 135k high miles.
 

Happy Hummer

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,462
Location
Wisconsin
There is NO possible, plausible way to guarantee that a certain H3 will be good, not good. To many variables. Who the OP was. How they maintained it. How they drove it etc.....
Any high mileage vehicle comes with extra responsibility. I'd say if you're friend is mechanically inclined and willing to take on the responsibility go for it. Personally after working on two H3's for a number of years I'd be more apt to purchase a Ford Raptor or the like if off roading was my goal. JK unlimited fully built. Toyota Tacoma etc.... These are brands have excellent industry support and huge following that parts are big time available in aftermarket.
If I want a great all around vehicle with lower initial buy in I'd get a lower mileage H3. Do be aware that Hummer aftermarket industry support is nearly non existent.
Jmho
 

lowtrac

Well-Known Member
Messages
222
Location
Georgia
I have no experience with Alphas, but I have owned two (still have one) vehicles with the 5.3 Vortec and have gotten high miles out of both. I sold my 2002 Avalanche to partially fund the H3, and it had a little over 320,000 miles on it. I still own a 2001 Tahoe with 263,000 miles. I consider that engine pretty much bulletproof. Like Happy Hummer mentions though, your friend should still be prepared to deal with some stuff.
 

4speedfunk

Well-Known Member
Messages
4,250
Location
Tardville
I actually think the V8 motor is probably the most robust component on the entire truck. At 135k miles...the motor is the least of your worries.


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cgalpha08

"Like Nothing Else"
Messages
3,713
Location
Indianapolis, IN
At 135k, expect to rebuild the front diff at the very least. I am sure various bushings here and there are worn and will need to be replaced as well.
I've have /had 4 vehicles with the 5.3 in it.
02 suburban with 112k, no problems
08 alpha with 69k, no issues
09 alpha with 29k, no issues
15 Silverado with 19k miles no issues

Point it as others have said the engine is probably the least of your concerns.

Mind posting up which one he's looking At? I thought about going the high mileage way after I wrecked my last h3.

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Ghostbuster

Well-Known Member
Messages
862
Location
United States
My dad owns an oil change shop and I've personally seen the same motor in Chevy Silverados with 300k+ miles on them.

It is a lot better than the I5 motor.

But like others have said, you have other things to worry about at higher mileage.

It is always a great idea to crawl under the rig and inspect for leaks, and other things like worn bushings etc. you just have to know what you are looking for.

A couple of things that are easy to check would be the fluids.

Also, test drive it and get it up to operating temp. Then turn it off, pull the oil cap. If a lot of gasses come out when you take the cap off, then that is a sign of blow by gases. Which usually is a sign of worn piston rings, because the gases are getting past the rings. Worn piston rings might indicate a motor that was neglected, and if the motor was neglected who knows what else was neglected on the rig.

There are so many things to check when buying a used vehicle.

You just have to know what and where to look for it.

Good luck.



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rascole

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,830
Location
Bellflower, CA
Mileage aside, the 5.3 is one of the cheapest motors to replace when it goes bad. Half the price of the I5, when my 3.5 dies I'll be swapping in the 5.3.
 

Acer4LO

Well-Known Member
Messages
801
Location
Illinois
**UPDATE
Thanks for all the feed back you guys. Alright need your guys opinions and expertise with one more thing! Is this truck worth it? My buddy doesn’t think so. **Please read everything if you want to respond!!
Here is the vehicle in question:
https://www.cargurus.com/Cars/l-Used-Hummer-H3-Dallas-d843_L33702#listing=177099590

It obviously has a lot of extras on it.
- Gobi ranger roof rack with lockboxes
- 4X PIAA lights and 2x rear PIAA lights
- Rocky Road Outfitters Rock Sliders
- 16” Hutchison Beadlock wheels with spare
- Boulder accessories bumper with steel cable winch
- 35in tires
- Adventure package - Rear Locker + 4.10
- Monsoon
- OEM Roof lights
- Possibly a rubber duck diff cover and some skid plates

Obviously it seems like a pretty nice build from someone who is not apart of the forum community (Unless I’m mistaken). I didn't want to post it right away because we searched the entire Internet before we settled`upon this one and I didn’t want a guest viewer snatching it up before we looked into it. The reason we consider buying a build over a stock vehicle and building it ourselves is mainly because my friend just doesn’t have the time to do it. He works some long hours and he doesn’t want to spend the little free time he has building/researching. Also he doesn’t want to sink to much money into it just incase he needs to sell it because you won’t get back the money he put in. H3s are definitely gonna be harder to sell. Recently saw a 3.7 build with Rancho, Gobi with everything, 35s, RRO, and ARB Bumper drop from 18K to 13K on craigslist.

So anyway back on topic. The dealer considered letting it go for 16k. We were seriously considering buying this truck so we called the dealer to get a independent mechanic take a look at it. (We live in Illinois and the truck is in Texas so we needed to have this done before we did anything else). After a day or so the mechanic had some bad news:

- AC wasn’t blowing cold (Could mean the AC needs to be reloaded and if that isn’t the problem that is gonna be one expensive bill)
- Brakes and Rotors need to be replaced
- Needs steering alignment
- Seepage around oil pan
- Seepage around Trans pan
- Front diff leaking
- Needs new tires

So we figured 2.5 k to 3k to get everything squared away. (Feel free to correct me if I am wrong)
- 1k for wheel alignment and new seals done by shop
- Few hundred to do all brakes/rotors ourselves
- 1K + for new 315s (Maybe DuraTracs or MTRs)
(That doesn’t include the extra 1K to 1.5K it will take if the AC is beyond repair)

Now add Texas State Tax (6.25%) + $900
Shipping to IL + $800

Can't come up with an exact figure for the recommendations you guys gave me right now

So maybe 22K to 23K at most?

So what do you all think? Sorry for such a long post!
 
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cgalpha08

"Like Nothing Else"
Messages
3,713
Location
Indianapolis, IN
Hey man, I looked at this one and actually talked to the salesman the dealership before I found mine. They took the listing down once due to multiple leaks underneath saying it wasn't worth it to fix and that they would just auction it off. It was originally at a Ford dealer and now at this one. If you pm me your email I can forward you the email chain if you want.

I would buy this, yes it looks sweet and has nice additions but will probably need a lot of tlc, and it's probably need wheeled a good bit

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Enter Hummer

Well-Known Member
Messages
244
Location
Southwest
Hmmm thats a tough one. Yes 16k is a lot of money, but its right in line with other alpha's PLUS it has some goodies. The problems described by acer4lo exactly describe my truck. The seepage dosn't sound like a big deal unless it is dripping.

Bottom line, I think this would be a better truck for someone who has time for it. If he has no time for it and can't afford it, it will likely suffer badly from something. He might have to wait for a better deal, more time, or look for an I5. They typically run about 12k for a really nice low mile one (at least around me).
 

Acer4LO

Well-Known Member
Messages
801
Location
Illinois
Hmmm thats a tough one. Yes 16k is a lot of money, but its right in line with other alpha's PLUS it has some goodies. The problems described by acer4lo exactly describe my truck. The seepage dosn't sound like a big deal unless it is dripping.

Bottom line, I think this would be a better truck for someone who has time for it. If he has no time for it and can't afford it, it will likely suffer badly from something. He might have to wait for a better deal, more time, or look for an I5. They typically run about 12k for a really nice low mile one (at least around me).

Completely agree. My buddy is looking for a trail ready alpha. Bonus points if it has some extras. I just didn't like how the dealership boldly stated "There are not any problems with the vehicle as it drives amazing" and it has "Ice cold A/C" when it was the complete opposite. Wasted both our time and his money!
 

Enter Hummer

Well-Known Member
Messages
244
Location
Southwest
Completely agree. My buddy is looking for a trail ready alpha. Bonus points if it has some extras. I just didn't like how the dealership boldly stated "There are not any problems with the vehicle as it drives amazing" and it has "Ice cold A/C" when it was the complete opposite. Wasted both our time and his money!
Oh I must have missed that part. If I see dishonesty I gladly leave for no reason lol.
 

rascole

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,830
Location
Bellflower, CA
There is at least 4k worth of accessories already on it. I would definitely buy it for 16k. The only item on the list that can't be done with basic tools is the motor pan. Everything else is a fairly easy job for anyone with the tools and some time. I wouldn't completely trust an unknown mechanic either.

- AC wasn’t blowing cold (Could mean the AC needs to be reloaded and if that isn’t the problem that is gonna be one expensive bill) Ice cold AC? The mechanic should have used a thermometer instead of his calibrated finger to judge the quality of AC.
- Brakes and Rotors need to be replaced. Less than $400 for a quality rotor and ceramic pads for all 4 corners.
- Needs steering alignment. $60 with a coupon.
- Seepage around oil pan. Gasket replace $500 max by a shop.
- Seepage around Trans pan. You're going to drop the pan and replace the filter and gasket anyway so the price is pointless.
- Front diff leaking. Diff cover gasket $15, axel seals $12 each.
- Needs new tires. Thats a judgment call based on tread depth.
 

Ghostbuster

Well-Known Member
Messages
862
Location
United States
**UPDATE
Thanks for all the feed back you guys. Alright need your guys opinions and expertise with one more thing! Is this truck worth it? My buddy doesn’t think so. **Please read everything if you want to respond!!
Here is the vehicle in question:
https://www.cargurus.com/Cars/l-Used-Hummer-H3-Dallas-d843_L33702#listing=177099590

It obviously has a lot of extras on it.
- Gobi ranger roof rack with lockboxes
- 4X PIAA lights and 2x rear PIAA lights
- Rocky Road Outfitters Rock Sliders
- 16” Hutchison Beadlock wheels with spare
- Boulder accessories bumper with steel cable winch
- 35in tires
- Adventure package - Rear Locker + 4.10
- Monsoon
- OEM Roof lights
- Possibly a rubber duck diff cover and some skid plates

Obviously it seems like a pretty nice build from someone who is not apart of the forum community (Unless I’m mistaken). I didn't want to post it right away because we searched the entire Internet before we settled`upon this one and I didn’t want a guest viewer snatching it up before we looked into it. The reason we consider buying a build over a stock vehicle and building it ourselves is mainly because my friend just doesn’t have the time to do it. He works some long hours and he doesn’t want to spend the little free time he has building/researching. Also he doesn’t want to sink to much money into it just incase he needs to sell it because you won’t get back the money he put in. H3s are definitely gonna be harder to sell. Recently saw a 3.7 build with Rancho, Gobi with everything, 35s, RRO, and ARB Bumper drop from 18K to 13K on craigslist.

So anyway back on topic. The dealer considered letting it go for 16k. We were seriously considering buying this truck so we called the dealer to get a independent mechanic take a look at it. (We live in Illinois and the truck is in Texas so we needed to have this done before we did anything else). After a day or so the mechanic had some bad news:

- AC wasn’t blowing cold (Could mean the AC needs to be reloaded and if that isn’t the problem that is gonna be one expensive bill)
- Brakes and Rotors need to be replaced
- Needs steering alignment
- Seepage around oil pan
- Seepage around Trans pan
- Front diff leaking
- Needs new tires

So we figured 2.5 k to 3k to get everything squared away. (Feel free to correct me if I am wrong)
- 1k for wheel alignment and new seals done by shop
- Few hundred to do all brakes/rotors ourselves
- 1K + for new 315s (Maybe DuraTracs or MTRs)
(That doesn’t include the extra 1K to 1.5K it will take if the AC is beyond repair)

Now add Texas State Tax (6.25%) + $900
Shipping to IL + $800

Can't come up with an exact figure for the recommendations you guys gave me right now

So maybe 22K to 23K at most?

So what do you all think? Sorry for such a long post!

Lol. No. Just no.

Based on what you said, your friend sounds like a total tool sack. Why are you doing all the research for him?

Why can't his pansy self spend a couple hours at night researching like every other person with common sense?

When you spend $20k on a vehicle you think someone would put in a little effort..

It took me like 1 minute to come to the conclusion that your friend should not buy that H3 and he should buy this one.


http://m.ebay.com/itm/2009-Hummer-H...%3A7f43eeb815d0a7f234582bd6ffff35ef%7Ciid%3A2

Reasons:

1. Rare special edition H3
2. Priced as normal H3
3. Looks like it has never been rock crawling.
4. Has a V8.
5. Profit.

Good luck...







Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Acer4LO

Well-Known Member
Messages
801
Location
Illinois
Lol. No. Just no.

Based on what you said, your friend sounds like a total tool sack. Why are you doing all the research for him?

Why can't his pansy self spend a couple hours at night researching like every other person with common sense?

When you spend $20k on a vehicle you think someone would put in a little effort..

It took me like 1 minute to come to the conclusion that your friend should not buy that H3 and he should buy this one.


http://m.ebay.com/itm/2009-Hummer-H...%3A7f43eeb815d0a7f234582bd6ffff35ef%7Ciid%3A2

Reasons:

1. Rare special edition H3
2. Priced as normal H3
3. Looks like it has never been rock crawling.
4. Has a V8.
5. Profit.

Good luck...







Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Mainly helping him because he has no idea what he is doing and he is a close friend. I actually don't mind looking at the market from time to time. The Championship Edition you found on ebay must have been newly listed because I knew about that truck for months. We actually went in saw this one ourselves. Got to drive it and everything. Carfax came out good. We did not do a mechanic inspection so that would still need to be done for serious buyers. Originally came from MI. Before Highline owned the 3, it was for sale at a small dealership called cars147. Probably sat there for 7 to 8 months. The dealer was basically giving it away at 15k and my buddy was gonna offer 14k but he sat on it too long and the dealer just sold it off to auction and Highline bought it. I know, I know big bone headed move on his part. I did tell him multiple times that this was a Unicorn-Like deal, but he thought otherwise. After a week or so, my buddy realized the deal he just missed out on and called the new dealer to see if they would bring it down. Of course they said "Have a nice day." So now he's mad and would look elsewhere before buying it. (This is when we first started searching and thought he could get everything for cheap).
 

Acer4LO

Well-Known Member
Messages
801
Location
Illinois
Thanks everyone for the input about the 08’ Alpha. My buddy is probably gonna pass on this deal because of how shady this dealership is. They claimed that there was no problems even though there were. On top of that cgalpha08 emailed me his back and forth email chain with the last dealership that owned it and basically the ford dealership would not even retail it because it did not pass there inspection. This might be a good buy if this is your second 3 and you know all the ins- and outs, but not really for a first time buyer that just wants to enjoy the truck and do some wheeling.
 

Ordieh

Well-Known Member
Messages
152
Location
Georgetown texas
Since you live in Illinois, check out the CHAMPIONSHIP EDITION that is at Highline Auto Sales in Willowbrook Ill. The dealer has it listed as an ALPHA but it is definitely a CE instead (only 500 made for the US market). Apparently the dealer doesn't know what it is! If the CARFAX checks out, it is a bargain at $17995. Good luck
 

Acer4LO

Well-Known Member
Messages
801
Location
Illinois
Since you live in Illinois, check out the CHAMPIONSHIP EDITION that is at Highline Auto Sales in Willowbrook Ill. The dealer has it listed as an ALPHA but it is definitely a CE instead (only 500 made for the US market). Apparently the dealer doesn't know what it is! If the CARFAX checks out, it is a bargain at $17995. Good luck

Check your online finds post. I explained the situation over there.
 

GoHack

Member
Messages
6
Location
SoCal
Hi,

Returning H3 owner.

I just bought a 2008 Base Model, w/the i5 engine and rare 5 Spd. M/T, w/97K miles on it, in excellent condition. It's identical to what I once owned, w/more mile on it.

Checking the under body, there were no leaks, or broken seals and/or boots, of any kind.

I immediately started going through it, having no maintenance history on the vehicle.

Completed so far:

Engine oil/filter change (full synthetic, AMSOIL 5W-30 w/a NAPA Platinum oil filter)
New Air Filter
Cleaned the Throttle Body
Flushed and replaced the engine cooling system
Engine Tune-up
New Battery
Replacing the entire powertrain oils, w/synthetic if available, w/the transmission, transfer case, brake fluid, and hydraulic clutch fluid completed so far.
New tires, Uniroyal All-Season Truck (stock 265's), including spare. From my experience off-roading, Washington state and California, you don't need aggressive off-road and oversized tires, except in the most extreme conditions. But everyone has their own opinions, and I have mine. ;)
Front Wheel alignment
Checked the radiator for any chaffing up against the mounting cross piece. There was very little, but as a precaution, took a door edge protector, and cut some pieces from it to put over the sharp edges around the radiator.

Left to do:


Front/Rear differentials and power steering fluid change.
Shocks (front and rear)
Serpentine belt and belt tensioner/pulley replacement
New Water Pump
New Brushes for Alternator, if bearings feel OK. If not, a new alternator.
Drive Shaft Universals (front/rear)
I'm missing the covers for those two storage areas inside over the rear wheels, so I need to get replacements there.

The A/C is running excellently, in fact it sometimes gets too cold, even w/outside temperatures of over 100F. ;) So I don't need to worry about that.

Future Upgrade(s):

All aluminum radiator w/new hoses


So far, mileage wise, I've gotten as much as 21 mpg highway w/it, w/the A/C running full bore no less, w/a low of over 17 around town. Surprisingly, they don't use ethanol in the fuel here in California, thus the better fuel mileage and engine power. ;)
 
Last edited:
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