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Opinions: H3 aftermarket fab lacking?

Chocflip201

In the Rocky Mountains
Messages
585
Location
Utah
Something like tube doors or tube fenders I could offer in either steel or aluminum, whichever that person would want.
 

Happy Hummer

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,465
Location
Wisconsin
I'm going to pick another total different path...
I'd love to see a mount and bracket to adapt a strong steering system.
The rack and pinion is a weak design. And before all the Fane fare about the add on bracket gets started let's just say a turd is a turd lol. I'd love seeing a serviceable UCA made of t6066 Al.
Chris
 

Chocflip201

In the Rocky Mountains
Messages
585
Location
Utah
If I do a UCA it will be heat-treated chromoly 4130.

If I do steering it will be a "hydraulic assist" system using a double ended ram and retaining the factory steering rack, but with HD tie rods.
 

amrg

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,317
Location
Qatar
If I do a UCA it will be heat-treated chromoly 4130.

If I do steering it will be a "hydraulic assist" system using a double ended ram and retaining the factory steering rack, but with HD tie rods.

Would that UCA allow for more travel? I think everyone would be interested in more travel upfront, it reduces wheel spin/tire hopping upfront when climbing and this is when alot of damage happens at the diffs! I was reading about the silverados mid travel kits, 11" is really good to be honest!
Plus Id like to go baja in my h3 here!
Wouldnt this be costly though?
 

Chocflip201

In the Rocky Mountains
Messages
585
Location
Utah
No not necessarily by itself, the benefit of a UCA would be strength, serviceability, and it would be part of a modular system that would allow for coilovers.

The coilovers would eat up a lot of the problems with the torsion bars, would would essentially get rid of the issue of the LCA always resting on the bump-stop. So if you were to do control arms and coilovers, (still using the factory geometry) you could get a couple more inches of travel, but the main benefit there would be ride quality improvement and strength. And ditching all the torsion bar stuff.

The UCA is designed to contact a bump-stop that's on the frame from factory. This is so you don't over extend the capabilities of your shocks and CV halfshafts. If you ditch the shocks for coilovers, you are then only limited by the travel capabilities of the CV halfshafts and steering linkages. A level 2 system would of course address all of those issues.
 
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Chocflip201

In the Rocky Mountains
Messages
585
Location
Utah
Also, by switching to coilovers and increasing the up travel, be aware you may need to clearance more fender for 35" tires. You may rub when baja'in. Or go to 33's.

Something else that I could make would be a bolt-on assembly for air-bumpstops, to replace the factory design. But that would pretty much only be for coilovers too.
 
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atvspeed4

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,211
Location
massachusetts
Since we already went down this road with the upper control arms... You have three options for the upper balljoint, either a heim (like Bebe is running), a uniball or a cartridge style joint that you can rebuild. All of these options require a custom machined bolt or pin to work with the factory knuckle. (This is not difficult but takes time and $$$) Next issue we found was that when you change the shape of the upper control arm to try and clear a coilover the tire will rub the control arm bad! at full lock. The upper control arms we made were about 0.22" wider at one point and the 35s rubbed hard. We finally have a working set of upper control arms but in the end they are at a price that no one would pay (they are pretty bad ass though)
 

RamRod

Well-Known Member
Messages
3,914
Location
AB, Canada
Tube fenders!!!!!!

That is a pretty trick front suspension you posted there, wouldn't mind installing something similar into my T!
 

Highatop

Well-Known Member
Messages
600
Location
Florissant, Co.
I like the idea of tubed doors and fenders. I would think, front half doors would not be that hard to fab and would be able to mod them, cover w/ sheetmetal or open or even canvas.
Just a thought and I'm sure there is more to it but, I like the idea...
 

Chocflip201

In the Rocky Mountains
Messages
585
Location
Utah
Sounds like tube doors are first on the list. Who would be interested in 4? (All doors) and who would only be interested in the front 2 doors? Just trying to find out if it's worth it to R&D rear doors if nobody would want them anyways
 

Highatop

Well-Known Member
Messages
600
Location
Florissant, Co.
Me, front. I would think, the rear doors would or maybe have to incorp w/ the tube fenders? But front first w/ the idea of the rears to match later maybe?
I think, if you can keep cost down from manufactin and then to us. This could be a winner...Keep us posted...:corn:
 

Chocflip201

In the Rocky Mountains
Messages
585
Location
Utah
I'll get some ballpark prices posted up for steel and aluminum.

All will be 100% TIG welded, with option of powdercoat or raw.
 

digglesworth

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,789
Location
illinois
I'd be interested in seeing some sketches if you had any... Of any possible projects your thinking about..... I think tube doors would be sweet but not real high on my priority list. Personally speaking.
 

Spectre

Active Member
Messages
44
Location
Chicago, IL
Keep in mind the mirrors are mounted to the doors. You would probably have to incorporate them into the tube somehow.

Could be interesting. I avant wait to see what the cost comes out to be.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk
 

Chocflip201

In the Rocky Mountains
Messages
585
Location
Utah
Keep in mind the mirrors are mounted to the doors. You would probably have to incorporate them into the tube somehow.

Could be interesting. I avant wait to see what the cost comes out to be.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

Yes I'm aware :D
 

Highatop

Well-Known Member
Messages
600
Location
Florissant, Co.
Ok, mirrors solved. Back to the doors. For me, I think I would like to have sheetmetal on the inside to help seal the door for water crossings and catch some mud too, from gettin inside. Some anyway...
Frame showin on the outside would be just fine. Just another option if, you want an outside skin.
Also, the latch...Strong enough, to help seal and easy open...
Just somethin else to think about...:huh:
 

Chocflip201

In the Rocky Mountains
Messages
585
Location
Utah
Sealing against water wasn't on my design list, but sheeting a portion of it was. Here in Utah technically the law requires; mirrors and some kind if sheeting to prevent things from rolling out of the passenger compartment.
 
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