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Oil Filter Bypass Valve

RVR

Member
Messages
8
Location
Ohio
Anybody replaced one? Located in the oil filter base beneath the removed filter.

Shop manual sez: "Using a suitable tool, pry the oil filter bypass valve from the engine block". Then you just press the new one in.

'Suitable tool'? Thanks a lot shop manual. Like what?

I tried a small screwdriver under the inside lip, but it didn't budge.

2008 H3 w/3.7L I5
 

alrock

El Diablo
Staff member
Messages
10,674
Location
Scottsdale
I could be mistaken, but with our spin-on canister filters isn't the bypass filter part of the oil filter assembly? For a cartridge type filter, like on some Jeeps, the oil bypass filter is mounted to the engine. What am I missing?

What led you to trying to do this repair and what part # have you purchased as a replacement?
 

RVR

Member
Messages
8
Location
Ohio
I could be mistaken, but with our spin-on canister filters isn't the bypass filter part of the oil filter assembly?

If you have a V8, yes. If you have a I5, no.


What led you to trying to do this repair...

Just finished an engine rebuild, and decided to install a new oil pump and oil filter bypass valve.


what part # have you purchased as a replacement?

AC/DELCO #25014612

I didn't purchase it here, but it has a pic and description:

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...ypass-valve/25014612/6059110?q=25014612&pos=0
 

RVR

Member
Messages
8
Location
Ohio
Dirty oil is better than no oil, so probably a good idea for anyone with an I5 to replace it, assuming somebody can figure out how.

UPDATE:

Apparently on cold starts in cold weather, the bypass valve can open for a short period because of the increased viscosity of the oil until the temperature rises. This is because the bypass valves utilized in the I5s kicks open @ 21psi, whereas a lot of those within filters don't open until 11psi, simply to circumvent a clogged filter.

With those applications with bypass valves within the filters, you're getting a new bypass valve every time you change the filter, but to my knowledge, mine has been there since my engine was assembled in August of 2007, so we're coming up on 13 years. The odds of failure are obviously distinctly higher.

This could result in damage to main or rod bearings, cams, lifters, and more.
 
Last edited:

JPaul

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,436
Location
Way up north, UT
That is really interesting, I had no idea there was one. I just checked the FSM and sure enough there is a oil filter bypass valve in the block at the oil filter location. It's different from the oil pressure release valve in the oil pump which provides a release if the oil pressure gets too high at the pump.
 

RVR

Member
Messages
8
Location
Ohio
Filter Base.jpg

Found this on an old Caddy forum.
 

amrg

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,317
Location
Qatar
I had a problem with the bypass valve staying open at warm temps, causing a low pressure warning to come up esp when I have ac on (makes the engine run warmer)
Did everything initially (oil change/oil flush/oil filter/replace oil sensor/connector/dropped oil pan to check pickup tube and screen) and the last diagnosis was an oil pump. Engine out and on the ground, torn down and the oil pump was in good condition, turned out the valve was clogged internally. Cleaned it, replaced slightly scratched connecting rod bearings and put the engine back in. Runs great!

Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
 

RVR

Member
Messages
8
Location
Ohio
I had a problem with the bypass valve staying open at warm temps ... turned out the valve was clogged internally. Cleaned it...

So I take it you removed it in order to clean it? If so, with what? The shop manual was uncharacteristically vague.
 

amrg

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,317
Location
Qatar
I honestly have no idea, i had the engine at the mechanics and he did the internal work. My agreement was for him to open up, let me know which parts to get and he will do the instal. His statement was that the valve was clogged with alot of sludge from the oil (buildup over the years) and it stopped the valve from doing its job once the oil was warm. This lead to the warmer and thinner oil bypassing which caused the low pressure. I guess he washed it or something. I didnt buy him a new part.
The bearings had minor scratches and he told me just replace them since we are already there, the crankshaft bearings were still perfect.
I did alot of research later onn and found out some people had success using seafoam to clean up some of the crap inside the engine. Its not a bad idea honestly.

Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
 
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