H3 OEM Roof Rack Cross Rails installation problem

[geonaut]

I am seeking help with an apparently straightforward issue that nonetheless bugs me.
I have bought the following OEM roof rack cross rails for my 2008 H3: http://www.autotrucktoys.com/hummer/OEM-Hummer-H3-Roof-Rack-Crossbars-PRD24395.aspx


The problem is that the side rail groove under the Rail Flange is too narrow. As a consequence, the cross rail guides do not enter in the groove, and I am unable to slide the cross rail onto the rail.


I attach the installation guide for reference. View attachment H3 Hummer SPO Roof Rack Cross Rails.pdf


I am puzzled about this. Did different versions of the H3 come with different side rails? What can I do now? I'd hate to throw away the 439$ (!) already spent on this, and my wife's already making comments about lack of technical skills...

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

I don't think they came with different rails; but I do know they have to be absolutely square to the vehicle to slide back. The other thing to check is to make sure the J hook (what grips the rail) is actually dropping down to allow it to slide.

 

[alrock]

If you can post pics of the problem that would be helpful. For example, can you place the crossbar on the roof at the rail so we can see the problem directly?

 

[digglesworth]

A lot of people say to assemble them loosely for easier installation. I believe the j hook is attached through the rail into the foot. If its loose, the hook will be loose and allow the foot to slide. Get a helper to keep it square and push both sides evenly. That hook has to fit in the notches in the tracks.

 

[geonaut]

Thanks a lot guys - I will work on this tomorrow and let you know of any progress. Sorry for the late reply on this. Hurt my knee playing soccer...

 

[geonaut]

Thanks a lot guys - I will work on this tomorrow and let you know of any progress. Sorry for the late reply on this. Hurt my knee playing soccer...

Sorry for being late in coming back on this. My sports injury set me back a few days. Pictures are unfortunately not possible: once you place the stanchion on the rail, you can't see anything. The problem remains that the space between the "washer" at the end of the pin and the pin base is no more than 5-6 mm, while the rail itself is about 7 mm thick. Seems to me like poor manufacturing by GM... Should I work on the plastic pin base to increase the space, or is there another trick?

 

[alrock]

Maybe a dumb question, but I assume that the end cap on the crossbar has been removed and the lever on the outside of the crossbar is fully extended out 90 degrees, meaning it is now parallel to the crossbar. And I assume that when you move the lever on the crossbar, that pin with the lower retaining washer is moving up and down, right?

If that pin isn't moving, then I suspect you need to return the crossbars to the seller. Your rails are standard - there's no variation between years. I never had an issue taking mine on and off.

 

[digglesworth]

I don't have my crossrails yet but I think those notches in the track play a role in attaching the base. Either the j-hook goes in the notch or maybe the pin/washer goes in the notch. I'm not sure since mine have not arrived yet.

 

[geonaut]

Maybe a dumb question, but I assume that the end cap on the crossbar has been removed and the lever on the outside of the crossbar is fully extended out 90 degrees, meaning it is now parallel to the crossbar. And I assume that when you move the lever on the crossbar, that pin with the lower retaining washer is moving up and down, right?

If that pin isn't moving, then I suspect you need to return the crossbars to the seller. Your rails are standard - there's no variation between years. I never had an issue taking mine on and off.

In fact the pin with the washer rotates but does not move up/down while rotating. I was wondering about that but hoped it would nonetheless tighten on the rail... With that suggestion, I will in fact go back to the retailer... Thanks.

 

[geonaut]

I don't have my crossrails yet but I think those notches in the track play a role in attaching the base. Either the j-hook goes in the notch or maybe the pin/washer goes in the notch. I'm not sure since mine have not arrived yet.

The pin/washer goes in the notch. As suggested by alrock, it seems I have faulty bars, as the pin/washer on my set actually does not move up or down when I rotate the lever...

 

[digglesworth]

Good to know. Glad you found out what the problem was. Hope they take the faulty rails back for ya...

 

[Hunner]

I don't have my crossrails yet but I think those notches in the track play a role in attaching the base. Either the j-hook goes in the notch or maybe the pin/washer goes in the notch. I'm not sure since mine have not arrived yet.

I have read you mention a J hook several times. It's been awhile but I don't remember a J hook.

I went up to the Hummer museum but it's 12F up there and could not find my extra cross bar to get a picture of the bottom side.

See if this old post has any info that might help.
http://www.hummer4x4offroad.com/forum/showthread.php?543-Hunner-Roof-Cross-Bar-Mod

 

[digglesworth]

From the pics I've seen, there's a tab bent into a hook that is in the center of the foot... The rail has a hole in each end with a bolt that goes through the rail, though the foot and threads into the tab. When you slide the foot onto the track, the plunger has to go in the rail and the j-hook has to catch one side of the track... Ill see if I can find a pic.

 

[digglesworth]

Can't seem to upload the pic from my phone. The plunger is offset to one side. The hook is in the center right underneath where the rail comes into the foot.

 

[digglesworth]

Got my set today I ordered off eBay. Went out with one of the bases to see how it was going to fit. It fit like crap. The latching mechanism was loose as hell. I pulled up on the base and slid it back and forth to feel the plunger drop in the notches. It was loose any way I put it. I might try Hunners trick of putting an extra washer on the plunger and see of it helps. I can see the plunger moving up and down when I move the lever but its not a ton of movement. I'll try and post a pick of these bases but since the forum update, I can't select pics from my phone.

 

[digglesworth]

well I cant get a pic up. for whatever reason, theres a breakdown between my phone and my email... the bases I have are identical to the ones geonaut posted directions for. if anyones got an oem one off the vehicle, id love to see 2 pics with a ruler next to the plunger with the lever open and with the lever closed to see how much the plunger actually moves... im actually thinking about getting some edge guard for doors to put on the bottom of the base where it sits on top of the roof trim... might give the base a little more grip on the trim. the notches in my track are not real pronounced. I don't want to have any issues with these rails sliding... I wish I could see under the base where the plunger meets the track and see if theres a gap in between them and how much... might be able to use a thin fender washer and a rubber fender washer and get it real snug... the weather here sucks so this isn't going to be a fast process...

 

[digglesworth]

I think I'm gonna ditch the lever/plunger mechanism altogether... I'm gonna slide a carriage bolt and washer down the track with the bolt sticking up through the hole in the base where the plunger is supposed to go. I'll slip a washer and nut on the bolt and be able to snug it down. It won't be as simple as opening the lever to release the base but once I get em in place to mount my megawarrior, I won't be moving them around... And the nut and bolt should be able to get the base nice and tight without the risk of snapping a lever getting it too tight.