H3 New Rear view + some questions

[davidh3]

I made a deal with Paladine71, I bought his Gobi Spare Tire Delete Kit 6 months ago, Now that I have a long Summer Break, I have enough time to give my H3 a new look. If possible, Rancho project will be done during this Summer.

1:

new look, I really like Black & Red color combination.
2:
Q: how to clean this mess? Can I just flush it with water? Any suggestions??

3:
Q: I want to install roof marker covers on the top of side pillars(you know what I mean), But, I don't know how to pill off those two side plastic pillars, and don't know where to drill new holes.




Appreciate any comment given by you guys. Thanks!:cheers:


Extra pics

new body color grille:


HD decal from Valve store:

 

[deserth3]

I'll let someone else touch on the engine. I know you're not supposed to get water in the alternator. Which is almost inposible with a real dirty engine.

Front A pillars. First raise the hood and take off the fake air intakes. Justr pull straight up. They're held on by those silly plastic clips that hold the inner door panel on.
Under the rubber weather molding there are 2 screws you have to remove. The weather molding just pulls off.
Then pull the bottom of the pillar forward. There are two plastic clips in the front that hold into the metal. Also there is a hook type thing that uaualy get's broke if that holds the top to the next piece of molding.

 

[cgalpha08]

For the engine bay cleaning, you can go at it with a power washer, but be careful of getting the electronics wet. Then take it to a detail shop and they will steam clean it all nice and pretty!!

Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk 2

 

[Steve #1]

2:
Q: how to clean this mess? Can I just flush it with water? Any suggestions??
View attachment 4687
Appreciate any comment given by you guys. Thanks!:cheers:

Hose it off with LOW PRESSURE. Spray everything with scrubbing bubbles and let it sit a few min. Rinse and may need to hit it again with the scrubbing bubbles.

 

[ReconH3]

After you wash engine, spray alternator with WD40. Then start the engine and spray it some more. With the engine running it helps suck in to parts inside that spray doesn't reach. Spraying while stopped also let's spray get to parts that centrifugal force wouldn't allow.


"Ex Umbris Venimus"

Sent from my iPhone

 

[08SolarFlareH3]

There are three markings on the back of the A-pillar molding already marked for drilling holes for the marker lights.

 

[davidh3]

updated

 

[4u33er]

Where I can buy the Gobi spare tire delete kit?

 

[alrock]

PM Timgco. He's with High Country Performance 4X4 and should be able to help you. I anticipate they will be listed as a forum sponsor shortly.

 

[Timgco]

Where I can buy the Gobi spare tire delete kit?

PM sent.

 

[4speedfunk]

Steam cleaning works awesome for engine bays. Buy a Wal-mart shower cap, and place it over the alternator during the cleaning. Also might be a good idea to pull each coil pack and put some tape over the spark-plug wells (assuming its a 5-cyl.). When you get done with the steam...liberally spray the whole engine bay with silicone spray or your favorite tire dressing. Silicone is a natural water repellent and it will chase any moisture out of the tight areas. It also makes mud & dirt less prone to stick and thus makes the next clean-up easier. This is how used car dealers get nice, shiney engine bays on 100K mile cars.

The H3 requires some special attention to the plug wells. Before you re-install the plug boots, take a peak down inside each plug well. Don't freak-out if you find a bunch of rust down in there...thats normal but, you gotta get it outta there. A shop-vac and a small brass tooth brush works good. Use PB-blaster or WD-40 if you got some stubborn rust. Once you get the wells and boots clean and dry...put a pea-sized glob of electrical grease inside each boot...and spray some more silicone on the outside of each boot...then snap em back into place on the plugs. This silicone will help chase moisture away from the wells, and also lubricate the rubber boot so it slides completely into the well. Doing this will keep your spark where its supposed to be (inside the chamber), and avoid random mis-fire codes that is so common with the 5-cyl.