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New motor

06 H3

a.k.a. "The Jackal"
Messages
9,496
Location
Meridian, ID
Thanks guys! I have it home now, already put 50 miles on it. the battery light is still on even with the new battery. I emailed jamie and he is emailing me instructions, I need to wire in something to the battery control module.

My oil light just came on as I got home, the motor isnt knocking and I have oil in it. I am assuming its electrical, I emailed Jamie about it and will get that taken care of too.

I wont drive it to work yet, but its running and now its time to get the bugs out!
 

06 H3

a.k.a. "The Jackal"
Messages
9,496
Location
Meridian, ID
302 horsepower compared to 220. Torque was 225 on the 5cyl gotta check for the v8...

Power is insane. I feel confident to say it would walk away from a 5cyl on 32s and I'm on 37s
 

whylee

Well-Known Member
Messages
98
Location
Reno NV
I can vouch for the power part. The 5.3 is a pretty peppy motor. My Alpha had plenty of power in stock form, but im glad I supercharged it anyways.
 

High Five H2

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,627
Location
West Texas
looks just like my engine bay. you have 5.13 gears, right? you should go street race rice rockets for money. no one will expect it.
 

RamRod

Well-Known Member
Messages
3,914
Location
AB, Canada
I can vouch for the power part. The 5.3 is a pretty peppy motor. My Alpha had plenty of power in stock form, but im glad I supercharged it anyways.

From the sounds of the first test drive it would be about 100 smiles/gallon :giggle:
 

06 H3

a.k.a. "The Jackal"
Messages
9,496
Location
Meridian, ID
thanks guys! I am going to add a mechanical oil pressure gauge. I killed the inline 5 because by the time my oil light came on it was too late. Dont want that to happen again. I am thinking about those oil filter sandwhich plates that have a threaded insert for the oil pressure line
 

06 H3

a.k.a. "The Jackal"
Messages
9,496
Location
Meridian, ID
Ive been doing some searching around and whats your guys opinion? I can drill/tap the oil cooler block off plate above the oil filter, use a sandwhich plate adapter or drill and tap on the top of the motor by the OEM Sensor. Is there any benefit to having the pressure read from the top of the motor vs the bottom? The bottom seems easier.
 

4speedfunk

Well-Known Member
Messages
4,250
Location
Tardville
Oil pressure warning light sending unit should be on the back topside of the motor (item #3 in the diagram). On past motors I have removed the oil light sensor...installed a tee fitting...then put the light sensor back in place (usually sideways due to the tee). Then on the other end of the tee I install the mechanical gauge sending unit. That way I get to keep both...the light and a mechanical gauge.
attachment.php
 

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CaseyS

Well-Known Member
Messages
755
Location
Louisiana
What he said. Don't drill and tap anything, please. One slip and you puncture through the oil galley or cross thread the tap and you have just hosed up your block.
 

abearden

Well-Known Member
Messages
609
Location
N. Idaho
As someone who has dealt with the same setup on my last two motors, go with the T fitting and an electronic sender. Way easier than attempting another solution. Cleaner too.

Also, not something you need now, but in the future you may want to replace the pot metal push fitting on the upper cooling line with a stainless barb fitting if your motor is equipped with one. One of the only major problems I've had, but not sure if they got away from it with the newer motors.
 

Mr_Rich

Well-Known Member
Messages
661
Location
Yucaipa & Santa Maria
Ive been doing some searching around and whats your guys opinion? I can drill/tap the oil cooler block off plate above the oil filter, use a sandwhich plate adapter or drill and tap on the top of the motor by the OEM Sensor. Is there any benefit to having the pressure read from the top of the motor vs the bottom? The bottom seems easier.

I think that's a roarin' good idea. Now that you're at this point you want to protect your investment. On the F-body oil pans there is a fitting that is retained by two M6 bolts just above the oil filter. Does your oil pan have this fitting? Check out Street and Performance. In one of my LS books there is reference to just that part that is already drilled and tapped.
 

06 H3

a.k.a. "The Jackal"
Messages
9,496
Location
Meridian, ID
yes, there is a piece like that, are you referring to this?

This isnt my picture but it looks like this



As for drilling and tapping I really really didnt want to do that into the top of the block and was a last option. I havent looked at the piece in the picture closely under my truck yet but it is removable so if I had to drill and tap it that is a WAY safer option.

a T fitting is an option too...Thanks for all the input so far guys and to anyone else reading this, dont consider this v8 related. I5 guys can benefit from this too knowing your engine vitals is important. Its crazy we live in a society where we have ditched a good ole gauge in favor of a big red tea kettle looking light. Its also just as crazy that you can lose pressure and destroy a motor faster then that light can turn on so having a gauge is a good thing to add.

I havent driven it since the oil light came but I did have to move it out of the driveway and the oil light didnt come on. I did do a google search and this issue seems more common then broken H3 front diffs (that comment is for you 4speed :)) there are literally hundreds and hundreds of posts that just continue on about vehicles with 5.3s that had their oil light come on then they turn off the motor start it back up and it goes away and its fine. Supposedly those sensors go out and malfunction like nobody's business but I am not driving it till I get a gauge on it. Im not gonna take a chance even though its running fine and has oil.
 

06 H3

a.k.a. "The Jackal"
Messages
9,496
Location
Meridian, ID
I may want to go to the location where Mr. Rich is talking about. Putting a T fitting will work but I may get false readings even from the T fitting due to the lifter valve oil filter.

http://www.silveradosierra.com/gallery/image.php?album_id=30777&image_id=138897

This gets clogged and then you dont get accurate pressure. That picture is quiet extreme but I am assuming my issue is either a clogged filter or a bad sensor because the motor is running the same way as it did when I put the first 45 miles on it compared to the last 5. I had the light killed the motor immediately, no knocking but did kill it to be safe. Checked oil all is well. Started it back up. light is gone, drove a few miles turned back on. Killed it again, then it went off and on while running.
 
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