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H3 New here! Got a issue with my H3

Hummerzzz

Member
Messages
6
Location
North Carolina
Great group, love everything I've read so far. I have an 06 H3. Bought it for $2k with bad engine, body and interior are near perfect with 140k miles. Upon tearing it down, it was a burnt intake valve. I've since rebuilt engine with hardened valve seats, runs great! I've put a couple hundred miles on it and now have developed a issue. When I come to a stop it will shut off. Sometimes in park when I turn the steering wheel, the engine RPM's lower and sometimes shut off. I've checked the bolts on intake and checked seal on throttle body (vacuum leaks). The mass-air sensor has been cleaned with appropriate cleaner and I have a new air filter. I have not checked the VVT solenoid yet. I have new, beefy battery terminals and even ran my own ground wires from battery to block and block to frame. I have no check engine codes. Battery voltage is around 14.3 with engine on and new battery. I understand that we don't have a IAC valve, the ECM adjusts idle itself via throttle body. Any ideas of what the issue is?
 

Iwillnc

Well-Known Member
Messages
242
Location
NC
I’m an H2 guy but a buddy has an 06 H3 and his had a similar issue. We took his throttle body off and gave it a really good cleaning and that took care of his turning off issue and made the idle a lot smoother.

Good score on the truck though!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Hummerzzz

Member
Messages
6
Location
North Carolina
When I had the engine apart I cleaned the throttle body really good. It idles smooth and runs great. I do want to mention that sometimes when it wants to stall it catches itself and revs to keep from stalling.
 
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alrock

El Diablo
Staff member
Messages
10,677
Location
Scottsdale
I dunno. I had an issue like that on a motorcycle and it ended up being a vacuum leak though I know you said you already checked that.
 

Jeepwalker

Well-Known Member
Messages
979
Location
WI
Mine had the same issue for a while. Cleaned the throttle body, changed the spark plugs to new ...and cleaned the MAF and that resolved it. You may want to take another look at the TB just in case. And clean/replace the PCV ..which can also do that. Also worth checking the vacuum hoses and re-look at the sensors since you had the engine out. Although you probably already did that. Sounds like you know what you're doing.

Also, sometimes I've seen the main rubber intake hose which goes to the TB can 'fold' under during installation and be out of place under the clamp at the TB. It would be easy to do and impossible to see it wasn't sealing 'right'. The PO of my vehicle had it like that when I bought it and I didn't notice it for quite a while. That would allow air to be sucked through the gap of the hose and the main computer to 'think' it was getting less air than was going past the MAF. And would screw with what the fuel mapping. Less noticable at higher speed than at idle when less air is going past. So worth pulling off the hose and checking that.

If you have a scanner, double-check the temp sensor is reading right. Finally, MAF's don't always respond to cleaning. I had a vehicle a few yrs ago where the MAF was at the lower end of the 'good' range, after cleaning a couple times, but still idled like crap. It wasn't right on the edge ..I assumed it was fine. After exhausting every other possibility, resetting the computer, etc ...I finally broke down and bought a new Bosch MAF and BINGO! instantly ran great. It bought the voltage reading (via the OBD) into a higher range. So, on that vehicle, in that instance, it must have been too low in the range. But before you do that, quadruple-check the other things on my and other guys' forum posts. You could unhook the MAF too and drive it and see if that runs ok (in open loop mode) to see.

In addition, you may also ohm out the coils. Put a vacuum gauge on the intake and watch needle, see if you have any lingering intake leaks. Wave a propane hose around in the engine compartment to see if it levels off. Check injector seals, etc. But start with the TB/hose/PCV, etc. Problems are usually the small things.

That's about all I can think of. Let us know what it turns out to be...
 
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Hummerzzz

Member
Messages
6
Location
North Carolina
Excellent response sir. I will look at each of those items. I will double check the throttle body. I do have a MAF sensor, upstream/downstream O2 sensors and an oil pressure sensor on order. PCV system is cleaned, even under the valve cover. New plugs, coils and alternator. Where can I find the specs/tolerances for each sensor? I don't have a service manual but may need to look into getting one.
 

Hummerzzz

Member
Messages
6
Location
North Carolina
Wanted to give update on my issue. It was a loose/not positioned correctly boot that connects to the throttle body. I sprayed starting fluid in small bursts around the connections and found it. I repositioned the boot and tightened the clamp. Been driving it for a week with zero issues. Idles and revs better. Clearly it was getting unmetered air from the leak. Thanks for everyone's help.
 

650Hawk

Well-Known Member
Messages
548
Location
SoCal
Glad you found it; good info for the rest of us, too.

I had a Civic once that had the same symptoms. Turned out there was a split in the intake boot that would open up when the motor shifted a bit depending on RPM. Took awhile to figure that one out!
 
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