Looking for a suspension lift

[Stoic Bluejay]

So I just threw 35s on and need to find a suspension kit. Obviously Rancho has discontinued and I've called everywhere I can find in the USA and Canada for the Rancho kit without any luck. I'm also having issues with the wheel alignment by .05. The two shops I took it to say the torsion bars are too cranked to get a good alignment. Obviously the Rancho would fix that bringing the H3 to OEM specs. It's been lifted about around an inch and leveled. Any ideas would be great. So I leave it to you Sages of knowledge and experience to help guide. Thanks.

 

[Ghostbuster]

I think hundreds of people have put 35s on and cranked the torsion bars. They are just fine. I'm pretty sure most if not all were able to get a good alignment.

That is just info I have gathered over the past three years.

 

[ZoroTheGreat]

If you're cranked too much you could try switching to a pair of H3 Alpha torsion bars. I've heard that they're compatible with the base model and are stronger to compensate for the extra weight of the V8. Also I could be wrong but I think 4 wheel parts might have rancho lifts.


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[Traxx]

Discontinued so a used kit may be your only bet.

 

[4speedfunk]

Torch.

 

[GreatDaneHummer]

With the Rancho kit discontinued this is why you are seeing so many solid axle swaps being done. There is absolutely no lift kit other than torsion bar adjustments and a 1" body lift that is available for H3 owners. If I am wrong please speak up guys*

Solutions:

1.) 4speedfunk (CJ) at Thorparts makes a very nice easy* (all things relative) solid axle kit that can be installed by a local fab shop or you can do it yourself with the right tools. There is great support on the forum here with many already taking on this challenge with impressive success. Costs around $7k or so for everything depending on options if I remember correct.

2.) Dynatrac will work with you to get Dana 60's front and rear. They make an impressive product but it also comes with a very high price tag at $20k just for the axles. I am not sure if they have maintained the ABS / Traction control on the ones they did for Recon. Shops like Off Road Evolution I can only guess at a good $15k plus in labor / suspension to install such an axle package like Recon has.

3.) Junk yard build and forget the abs / traction control bolting up some Dana 44's or 60's with a basic 3 link in the front and SOA in rear.

4.) Torq Motorsports has high end 14 Bolts with ABS / Traction control for the H3 being worked on currently but this will be an expensive route like the Dynatrac in the $12k range for a front axle and $6k* for the rear. (Final pricing not provided on rear*) Again this will need some good labor / suspension package like Recon.

5.) Currie makes a great Dana 44 HP decked to the 9's that can use Thorparts ABS hubs with RCV shafts etc. High price but will get you close to a basic dana 60 in a light weight easy package.

My 2 cents for what its worth.

 

[alrock]

Lower the torsion bars.

 

[Traxx]

I would just buy another higher mileage H3 to chop into pieces for trail use before spending that kind of money on an axle swap.

With the Rancho kit discontinued this is why you are seeing so many solid axle swaps being done. There is absolutely no lift kit other than torsion bar adjustments and a 1" body lift that is available for H3 owners. If I am wrong please speak up guys*

Solutions:

1.) 4speedfunk (CJ) at Thorparts makes a very nice easy* (all things relative) solid axle kit that can be installed by a local fab shop or you can do it yourself with the right tools. There is great support on the forum here with many already taking on this challenge with impressive success. Costs around $7k or so for everything depending on options if I remember correct.

2.) Dynatrac will work with you to get Dana 60's front and rear. They make an impressive product but it also comes with a very high price tag at $20k just for the axles. I am not sure if they have maintained the ABS / Traction control on the ones they did for Recon. Shops like Off Road Evolution I can only guess at a good $15k plus in labor / suspension to install such an axle package like Recon has.

3.) Junk yard build and forget the abs / traction control bolting up some Dana 44's or 60's with a basic 3 link in the front and SOA in rear.

4.) Torq Motorsports has high end 14 Bolts with ABS / Traction control for the H3 being worked on currently but this will be an expensive route like the Dynatrac in the $12k range for a front axle and $6k* for the rear. (Final pricing not provided on rear*) Again this will need some good labor / suspension package like Recon.

5.) Currie makes a great Dana 44 HP decked to the 9's that can use Thorparts ABS hubs with RCV shafts etc. High price but will get you close to a basic dana 60 in a light weight easy package.

My 2 cents for what its worth.

 

[GreatDaneHummer]

The thing each of us has to ask ourselves is what is the realistic goal of doing a swap? If you just want to put on bigger tires and mall crawl in style then a simple Dana 44 will do this. If you are wanting something that is a show truck etc like Recon then the Dynatrac axles can be justified. If you just want something to use on trails and don't care about the body etc then go junk yard style with whatever you want. You want to compete in hard core off road ie King of the Hammers then contact Torq Motorsports and have axles that will outlast your truck. For me personally I learned what I wanted after going off road with my H3. When I was in Colorado on the Alpine loop I had trouble getting up some of the loose rock climbs and I was scared to push my truck. I didn't want to keep braking things on the side of a mountain. I would like axles that I can push the gas and not worry about it on 37" tires. A nice built up Dana 44 will do this and more.

I would just buy another higher mileage H3 to chop into pieces for trail use before spending that kind of money on an axle swap.

 

[sonicstage]

I cranked my t bars with 35s and my alignment is perfect with enough clearance in the wheel well


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[4speedfunk]

Bluejay...No lift is needed for 35"s. Many guys run them on stock (or stock-ish H3s) and they have proven this is a pretty reliable and practical set-up. It a Saturday afternoon, 5-step process...

1. Bolt the 35"s on.
2. Crank the T-bars to 23.5".
3. Align it yourself (tape measure and a piece of string)
4. If it rubs...don't turn that sharp! (its just the sway bar)
5. Wheel the piss out of it.

Ignore all this SAS b.s. unless you have wheeled to the point where the stock IFS won't hold together. The SAS is huge commitment in time and money, and its not something you should solely do, just to lift your truck. The Rancho is a nice kit and I'm sad to hear it has been discontinued...but, its not the end of the world. Given the cost of the kit (plus wheels), the bang-for-the-buck factor pales compared to the 5-step driveway lift. Instead of spending $4000 on a Rancho & wheels, spend $500 on an Outfitter Design steering rack kit, and differential bushing kit. Best money you can spend. It keeps your components in place, and allows for a more precise alignment.

Speaking of the alignment...
I have been horribly disappointed in the last few alignments I've hired out. Not only in the results but, also in the knowledge of the alleged "techs" that operate the alignment rack. You don't need a rack. You certainly don't need a "tech". Just hit up Google or YouTube and learn to do your own. Its not hard, and I can promise...you care far more about your own truck than some hung-over, booger-eatin, kid that has somehow passed a vocational course and got the title of "alignment tech" at the local Big-O.

(His parents made him enroll because the DJ-ing wasn't really panning out).

 

[woodwardsh3]

A 1 inch body lift is easy and cheep. I run 35'' tires with front cranked to 23.5 and a 1'' body lift just because it was easy to do.

 

[Gunner_45]

Out of curiosity, what is the measurement between the center of the wheel and the fender lip?

 

[Mb30sdl]

The thing each of us has to ask ourselves is what is the realistic goal of doing a swap? If you just want to put on bigger tires and mall crawl in style then a simple Dana 44 will do this. If you are wanting something that is a show truck etc like Recon then the Dynatrac axles can be justified. If you just want something to use on trails and don't care about the body etc then go junk yard style with whatever you want. You want to compete in hard core off road ie King of the Hammers then contact Torq Motorsports and have axles that will outlast your truck. For me personally I learned what I wanted after going off road with my H3. When I was in Colorado on the Alpine loop I had trouble getting up some of the loose rock climbs and I was scared to push my truck. I didn't want to keep braking things on the side of a mountain. I would like axles that I can push the gas and not worry about it on 37" tires. A nice built up Dana 44 will do this and more.

Dynatrack axels are not a mall crawler crap. They are KOH proven and will outlast rest of your truck.

 

[06 H3]

It's not only dynatrac, plenty of people run junkyard axles and spidertrax axles with lots of success. To be honest I see more spidertrax axles on the podium at koh then dynatrac

 

[GreatDaneHummer]

Where did you get from what I said to equal Dynatrac axles are not mall crawling crap? "If you are wanting something that is a show truck etc like Recon then the Dynatrac axles can be justified."
To me this would mean they are premium axles that are something you would want to show off...

Dynatrack axels are not a mall crawler crap. They are KOH proven and will outlast rest of your truck.

 

[Panzer07]

I think anything can be justified regardless of use and taste as long as u have the silver...

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