How would you lock in a straight-across trade with an out-of-state dealer?

[SedonaBound]

I've found a dealer out-of-state who may be interested in a straight-across trade of my '10 Wrangler Rubicon for a H3T. It's looking promising but I'd hate to drive the Jeep 500 hundred miles and find out the dealer being was less than straight with me, or tried to do a bait-n-switch. This is a GM dealer's used car dept. How would you get assurances on this deal before driving 1000 miles round trip?

 

[Bigunit]

Have the dealer write-up a sales contact, have both parties sign it and then place a deposit. This will lock-up the sale/purchase, terms and the prices of both vehicles. Use a credit card for the deposit so you can cancel or later dispute the charge if the deal doesn't happen.

 

[Best4x4]

I didn't do an out of state deal, but I did buy my Alpha site unseen. Saw it online, emailed dealer, made a few calls. Got my trade in offer, signed it, along with the Alpha price, and emailed it back to them with a copy of my insurance, and drivers license. I did a 500.00 deposit, and then the next day I drove 5.5HR to the dealership, test drove my Alpha, signed the papers, handed em my keys and title, got my Alpha keys and temp tag. I was out of there in 20min. Best buying experience ever!!!

 

[3Hummers]

What they said, and a lot of pictures exchanged by both of you before the trip.

 

[Green 1]

The dealer may think the Rubicon is an easy sell compared to the T. Millions of Rubicons on the road not many T's. Unless the dealer has not see any pictures of your truck I doubt he would back out. But before I drove 500 miles I would lock the truck up as stated before. You do not want to drive 500 miles and see someone driving off the lot as you drive in.

 

[Best4x4]

Actually that was the answer I got from the dealership where I traded my 08 FX4 SuperCrew in on the Alpha. They said Hummer's don't sell well due to everyone still thinking they're all gas guzzlers. He said my Alpha had been on the lot for 2 weeks and they had already taken 5k off of it. He said my 08 FX4 would be sold in 3-5 days. Sure enough it was sold in 3 days.

It just depends on the market. Some area's are trucks, some SUV's 4x4's, or cars. Moritz Chevy where I got my Alpha was totally honest with great communication, very easy to deal with, and I got a full tank of gas, a new key and remote to make me have two sets, new tires, and floor mats.

I'd never be worried to buy out of state or out of town. As long as they communicate well, work with you on the prices, and answer all of your questions there shouldn't be any issues.

I honestly sent Moritz an email saying I'll trade you keys for keys. Since I had already done the price comparison. Within 30min I was called and asked when I could get up there!! Zero price haggling issues and I actually got more than what I thought I'd get. I just paid for the title fee and that's it.

My wife's H3 deal was similar except they wouldn't budge on their H3's price. I only mentioned one trade in, showed up test drove it while they looked at my LJ. They were within 2k of being even. Then I said oh I have another trade in... That made it to where the tt&l was completely paid for. All I had to pay was 87.00 for some dealership inspection fee. I know for a fact they didn't see that coming!! My friend that drove my second trade in was just stunned I only paid 87.00!!

 

[SedonaBound]

The internet guy says I'll find out tomorrow if they can trade even, when the manager is there. That sounds a bit fishy on its face...so who approves their weekend deals?

 

[reaper]

I'd really think the best thing may be to see if another forum member might be willing to go test drive it to make sure the T is as-promised, along with the other recommendations. I sure wouldn't mind if it was in Denver.

 

[SedonaBound]

I'd really think the best thing may be to see if another forum member might be willing to go test drive it to make sure the T is as-promised, along with the other recommendations. I sure wouldn't mind if it was in Denver.

Good idea. Its in El Paso TX. They requested pics of the Jeep, so the deal is progressing. The intermittent rain here isn't helping though.

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

Once the deal seems done, write up a simple "this is our understanding" - that understanding should be IN PLAIN LANGUAGE and detail what the expectations of both sides are; then sign it; DATE IT (dammit); and email it to them. They should reply with "yep, that's the deal we think it is" as well. Once you have that, you're about as safe as you're going to get.

Or, to put it in legalese.... you have Offer and Acceptance, for Value. Whatever you do, leave writing like a lawyer to me (a lawyer).

 

[Best4x4]

Before doing anything make sure the prices of both vehicles are correct. They should send you either an offer on your trade in (after they've got the VIN & you've sent pictures). Then if the trade in value is good, sign it, and email it back. Then the same goes for for the H3T price. Once that is done then you'll be asked to put a deposit on the H3T. That only holds the H3T from being sold. Then if you get there and the H3T isn't as advertised you can simply walk away.

I'd just check the front diff cross-member for being blown out, CV's for torn boots, and any evidence it was abused off-road. Then drive it and check all the interior stuff out. H3's are pretty darn reliable rigs if taken care of. If your Jeep has any aftermarket stuff on it you're better off removing it and selling it yourself for $$$. Those aftermarket parts actually take away vs give you money.

 

[High Country H3T]

I hope your deal goes through. You will love the H3T. I often wheel with a Rubicon and he doesn't go anywhere I don't and driving to the trail head in the H3T is much better than his Rubi. Depending on whether your H3T is an 09 or 2010 model you may also have warranty left. Mine doesn't expire til next April. It really came in handy recently when I blew a CV half shaft In Red Creek at the Verde River (driver error). Repaired under warranty. I bought mine sight unseen from Michigan on EBay. Had it shipped to Phx. It was in better condition than I had hoped for. Good luck.

 

[SedonaBound]

Before doing anything make sure the prices of both vehicles are correct. They should send you either an offer on your trade in (after they've got the VIN & you've sent pictures). Then if the trade in value is good, sign it, and email it back. Then the same goes for for the H3T price. Once that is done then you'll be asked to put a deposit on the H3T. That only holds the H3T from being sold. Then if you get there and the H3T isn't as advertised you can simply walk away.

I'd just check the front diff cross-member for being blown out, CV's for torn boots, and any evidence it was abused off-road. Then drive it and check all the interior stuff out. H3's are pretty darn reliable rigs if taken care of. If your Jeep has any aftermarket stuff on it you're better off removing it and selling it yourself for $$$. Those aftermarket parts actually take away vs give you money.

Good advice on the sales agreement. Thanks.
How do I check the front cross-member; where and how does it blow out?

 

[Best4x4]

The bushing cracks and breaks. Push up on the front drive shaft if u see the diff move at all it's worn out. Easy fix though!

 

[Can007]

You don't see to many H3T around! I hope youget it

 

[Steve #1]

Good idea. Its in El Paso TX. They requested pics of the Jeep, so the deal is progressing. The intermittent rain here isn't helping though.

H3TBone Lives in El Paso. He'd probably check it out for you.

 

[SedonaBound]

I'm also wondering how to handle a title transfer from an out-of-state dealer. Do dealers have a clear title doc or just keep the signed title from the previous owner? I wouldn't feel comfortable bringing a 3rd party TX title back to AZ. Should I let them take care of the title transfer process?

 

[Bigunit]

Yes, let them take care of it. They should have and give you a clear title doc.

 

[Best4x4]

It depends are you financing the remainder of the deal or paying cash? If you're financing the title would get sent to your bank/CU and of coarse titled for the proper state. If paid cash you'd be sent the title after a few weeks, then you'd go and have it transferred to your state.

 

[3Hummers]

I think Tbone moved back to the Dallas area.

 

[SedonaBound]

I think Tbone moved back to the Dallas area.

No forum activity since September; no answer to PM.

 

[Ghostbuster]

There are vehicle inspection services. It would probably cost $100-$200. They will do a detailed inspection, test drive, and take detailed pictures. They would probably even check on other things if you asked them to... like the front diff mount stuff. That dealer might offer some type of return poilcy as well.. The dealer I bought my 3 from has a 72 hour/ XXX miles return period if you don't like it for some reason. They even have a 10 year/100,000 mile powertrain warranty on all vehicles they sell, new and used.

I just did a quick google search for used car inspection services, http://www.autoexam.com/ It's in Houston... but this is just an example of what I was talking about...

Best of luck to you.

 

[08H3]

Personally, I'd drive the 500 miles for the peace of mind of a face to face transaction. If it were a couple thousand miles, that would be different, but a thousand miles round trip is nothing. I've driven that to look at cars before.

 

[Ghostbuster]

Personally, I'd drive the 500 miles for the peace of mind of a face to face transaction. If it were a couple thousand miles, that would be different, but a thousand miles round trip is nothing. I've driven that to look at cars before.

Yeah he just needs to drive his Jeep to the dealer already...

 

[SedonaBound]

May not have to worry about El Paso...they want way too much cash along with the Jeep even though the book values of the H3T and JKR are virtually identical.