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H3 How to replace upper control arms???

hodges81

hodges81

Well-Known Member
Messages
60
Location
BECKLEY, WV
Trying to replace my upper control arms on my 2006 h3 but having trouble with both top bolts coming out. Tried look into repair manual but it just says, "take them out". There's a brake line stopping one and seem like the shock is stopping the other.

Just dont want to do a bunch of extra work thats not needed.
Thanks in advance
 
alrock

alrock

El Diablo
Staff member
Messages
10,673
Location
Scottsdale
Unfortunately, the brake line does need to be moved. As for the shock it depends on the shock that you have. If it has a flexible plastic cover you can squeeze it out otherwise you may have to at least remove the lower shock bolt

Two annoying but necessary steps. Neither is hard
 
4speedfunk

4speedfunk

Well-Known Member
Messages
4,250
Location
Tardville
Those bolts will have cresent-shaped eccentric washers welded to them. These are there to adjust camber. You should be able to simply pull them out (or tap them out with a small hammer)...but they can be stubborn. We're talking about #40, #41, #4...and #37, #3, #40...right? If I recall...you should be able to rotate the one and it will clear the brake line.


070426TN06-102.JPG
 
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06-3

Well-Known Member
Messages
60
Location
Edwardsville ,Illinois
Interesting This thread appeared...I took my H3 to the shop for tranny ,diff and transfer service and the tech found the upper control arm bushing on the drivers side roached ! it must be a catchy virus !:fan
 
rsc

rsc

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,087
Location
Tulsa
A simple job made difficult bacause of the tabs on the eccentric bushings. Why couldn't GM have moved the brake lines 1/4 of an inch?!?
 
hodges81

hodges81

Well-Known Member
Messages
60
Location
BECKLEY, WV
I removed the brake line and after I finished the first side the other was a breeze. Just needed to work with it for a minute cause it wasn't hard just confusing due to piss poor designing. I actually inserted more grease into the boots with a grease needle carefully inserted under the boot seal. Hopefully it'll help a little.
Finally all front suspension has been replaced now its time for the shift-fork replacement.
 
Last edited:
digglesworth

digglesworth

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,789
Location
illinois
Any pics? I'd be curious to see. Did you do the lower bushings and ball joint? I'm trying to psych myself up cause I gotta do this real soon. I have a nasty shimmy driving down the highway. Seems to be the worst between 60-65...
 
hodges81

hodges81

Well-Known Member
Messages
60
Location
BECKLEY, WV
No I didn't take any pics but I will take a wheel off for ya tomorrow and show ya what needs to be taken off and where its located. I'M going to change my oil so why not... LOL!
BTW I did both upper arms.
 
rsc

rsc

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,087
Location
Tulsa
I had to wait about 3 months for them to be in stock earlier this year and they were $125 then. Everyone had left sides but no right sides. :/
 
MTUH3

MTUH3

Well-Known Member
Messages
315
Location
Plymouth, MI
My bushings are pretty toasted too. I have knew uppers and lowers sitting waiting for spring.

I still need to find new Torsion Bars and the Specific Rancho Lift kits parts I need. Hopefully by trail riding season next year I will have a 100% replaced suspension.
 
H3slate

H3slate

Brush raked
Messages
983
Location
Tualatin, Oregon
I replaced my upper control arms. The biggest hurdle is getting the brake line out of the way so you can remove the bolts. I would recommend replacing the lower control arm ball joint while you are in there.

Sent from my XT907 using Tapatalk
 
digglesworth

digglesworth

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,789
Location
illinois
So how do you go about getting the brake line out of the way? Do you have to disconnect it, requiring a bleed when you're done?
 
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