Zack, I will gladly take it off your hands & thank you. Will send you a pm with contact info. & other details. Thanks again.
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H3 Front diff crossmember bushing fix
- Thread starter alrock
- Start date
Zack, I will gladly take it off your hands & thank you. Will send you a pm with contact info. & other details. Thanks again.
06 H3
a.k.a. "The Jackal"
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- 9,503
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- Meridian, ID
Uhhhhhh this is a tough one...
Can I phone a friend?
Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk
Luis, I've got three crossmembers going out to you today.
SGT-Wright
Well-Known Member
- Messages
- 354
- Location
- Washougal WA
What year did they change CM types?
I believe that all original production H3/H3Ts (2006-2010) came with the originial "first-generation" CM design/version. The new version was designed as a replacement part/upgrade as a result of the first generation/version failures.
Anyone who takes their H3/H3T in for a replacement CM will get the second generation CM put on their rig at the dealer. If you can, try to convince the dealer to give you the old "worn out" CM because it is better made and the metal is thicker than the second generation "fix" and will make a better/stronger replacement part/upgrade with the fiix that we are working on. Trust me on this one.
Anyone who takes their H3/H3T in for a replacement CM will get the second generation CM put on their rig at the dealer. If you can, try to convince the dealer to give you the old "worn out" CM because it is better made and the metal is thicker than the second generation "fix" and will make a better/stronger replacement part/upgrade with the fiix that we are working on. Trust me on this one.
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- 10,672
- Location
- Scottsdale
I don't know if it was so much a model year change as maybe a running supply change. I would guess around late '08 as I've gone through about 5 cross members and a couple were old style then they were all new style.
UPDATE: 3 crossmembers arrived at my office today - compliments of ZACK - who unselfishly donated these for the "cause"! :cheers: Thank you Zack. They will be delivered tomorrow to Dwayne to undergo the CM upgrade/transformation. Thank you. We are off to a great start for supplying these to H4O members and now have a great starting inventory of CMs to get us going with the member-exchange program.
The first "new style" "Scorpion version" front diff crossmember with Dwayne's new bushing design is ready (Alrock's crossmember was the original style CM).
I'll try to pick it up today and post up pics. The plan is to install and test it on my T before we start offering these to forum members. We have 2 new style and 2 old style CMs to start with (all thanks to Zack! :cheers
, so we will be able to supply both, depending on your preference. We may have to weld a UCP tab on the new style CMs so you won't have to worry about your UCP not bolting down on the passenger side of the CM (that's what I had the dealer do to my new style CM when I had the CM replaced a few months ago). This is looking like a pretty good and dependable solution to a common issue/failure with our H3s. Dwayne did a great job with the bushing design.
I'll try to pick it up today and post up pics. The plan is to install and test it on my T before we start offering these to forum members. We have 2 new style and 2 old style CMs to start with (all thanks to Zack! :cheers
, so we will be able to supply both, depending on your preference. We may have to weld a UCP tab on the new style CMs so you won't have to worry about your UCP not bolting down on the passenger side of the CM (that's what I had the dealer do to my new style CM when I had the CM replaced a few months ago). This is looking like a pretty good and dependable solution to a common issue/failure with our H3s. Dwayne did a great job with the bushing design.
auggie mathis
Well-Known Member
- Messages
- 119
- Location
- suger land tx
I cant wait for these to come out. Thanks for all your efforts
H4O EXCLUSIVE: The ScorpWorks H3 Bushing Fix for the Front Diff Crossmember!
Dwaine, is ready to start supplying the H3 front diff crossmember ("CM") with the "ScorpWorks bushing" fix already installed. I went to his shop yesterday to get one installed on my T for trail testing in Moab in April. Therefore, price and core details will be posted as soon as we put some more testing real-world miles on Alrock's and my CM. I tell you, he is a perfectionist & sure does great work. He also stands behind his work 100%. He is so sure that the bushing will never wear out (he feels that other parts will fail first, such as the CM bolt that goes through the bushing sleeve/into the bottom of the front diff, the front diff support bushings that hold the diff onto the frame or the CM itself, before the bushing does. As Alrock previously explained, the OEM bushing setup is a metal sleeve that is keyed to the diff with the sleeve sitting in vulcanized rubber so that the diff "floats" up and down in the rubber providing the mall-goer with reduced noise, vibration and hardness as opposed to a diff that is attached to a frame or subframe. The cushioning is provided by how the sleeve clings to the rubber; the OEM bushing provides indirect support to the diff as the sleeve does all of the work. Unfortunately that rubber is not designed for offroading and eventually splits leading to a diff that will then rock excessively and even clang against the crossmember. The Energy Suspension kit used by others who have done a DIY fix consists of 2 bushings that are not the proper size to provide the required snug fit on the H3's CM and a metal sleeve. However, the Energy Suspension bushings are much firmer than the OEM one. Dwaine's guess is that the OEM is about 40 durometer and the one he will be using in the Scorpworks bushing will be 80-90 durometers and is not likely to ever wear out.
Therefore, he will back the ScorpWorks H3 front CM with the ScorpWorks bushing already installed, with a free "lifetime replacement guarantee" if it ever fails (assuming you pay shipping to send him your CM). Here are some pics and more details:
First, here is a side-by-side pic of the 2 versions of the H3 CM - the one on the left, th eoriginal CM version ("CM #1"), the one on the right, the newer CM version ("CM #2"). Notice that CM#1 came with the UCP passenger-side tab already welded on (towards top of pic) and CM #2 did not.
The OEM CMs come with the bushing and the metal sleeve molded together and pressed into the CM and are not a serviceable part (that’s why the dealer will replace the entire CM to fix the worn-out OEM bushing) and as many have found out, a DIY fix is very difficult because it’s really hard to remove the old bushing because of the way the metal sleeve is pressed/fused into the bushing and into the hole in the CM AND the bushings in the Suspension.com kit are not the proper size and will NOT work without further modification. Here's a pic from the bottom of the OEM CM with the original bushing & sleeve still in it.
Dwaine decided to take the keyed head off the OEM sleeve (that is pressed onto the thin OEM internal metal sleeve), machine the new thicker sleeve to accept the OEM keyed head and then tack welded them together for even more strength. The new sleeve with the welded on keyed head is on the bottom left corner of this pic.
He then machined the top and bottom bushings for proper fit (the smaller one is the bottom bushing that goes on the underside of the CM). NOTE: All future ScorpWorks bushings and CMs will come with a red bushing instead of black!
He then put the top bushing in place, then the bottom bushing, then the spacer washer that he fabricated.
Then,pressed them together.
After that, he fabricated a UCP tab and welded it onto the CM. All #2 CMs will come with the UCP tab already welded on. We removed the old CM and replaced it with the new one in less than 20 minutes and used the OEM bolt, captive nut on top & the OEM concave washer that goes onthe bottom side of the CM in the OEM configuration sits open so that only the part of the washer rests against the OEM sleeve. The top height of the ScorpWorks bushing matches exactly, the top height of the OEM “floating” bushing design so that the OEM driveline angles remain at the OEM specs.
Pic of OEM bushing height.
Pic of new ScorpWorks bushing height.
Great job Dwaine and thank you for making these for us. :cheers:
Dwaine, is ready to start supplying the H3 front diff crossmember ("CM") with the "ScorpWorks bushing" fix already installed. I went to his shop yesterday to get one installed on my T for trail testing in Moab in April. Therefore, price and core details will be posted as soon as we put some more testing real-world miles on Alrock's and my CM. I tell you, he is a perfectionist & sure does great work. He also stands behind his work 100%. He is so sure that the bushing will never wear out (he feels that other parts will fail first, such as the CM bolt that goes through the bushing sleeve/into the bottom of the front diff, the front diff support bushings that hold the diff onto the frame or the CM itself, before the bushing does. As Alrock previously explained, the OEM bushing setup is a metal sleeve that is keyed to the diff with the sleeve sitting in vulcanized rubber so that the diff "floats" up and down in the rubber providing the mall-goer with reduced noise, vibration and hardness as opposed to a diff that is attached to a frame or subframe. The cushioning is provided by how the sleeve clings to the rubber; the OEM bushing provides indirect support to the diff as the sleeve does all of the work. Unfortunately that rubber is not designed for offroading and eventually splits leading to a diff that will then rock excessively and even clang against the crossmember. The Energy Suspension kit used by others who have done a DIY fix consists of 2 bushings that are not the proper size to provide the required snug fit on the H3's CM and a metal sleeve. However, the Energy Suspension bushings are much firmer than the OEM one. Dwaine's guess is that the OEM is about 40 durometer and the one he will be using in the Scorpworks bushing will be 80-90 durometers and is not likely to ever wear out.
Therefore, he will back the ScorpWorks H3 front CM with the ScorpWorks bushing already installed, with a free "lifetime replacement guarantee" if it ever fails (assuming you pay shipping to send him your CM). Here are some pics and more details:
First, here is a side-by-side pic of the 2 versions of the H3 CM - the one on the left, th eoriginal CM version ("CM #1"), the one on the right, the newer CM version ("CM #2"). Notice that CM#1 came with the UCP passenger-side tab already welded on (towards top of pic) and CM #2 did not.
The OEM CMs come with the bushing and the metal sleeve molded together and pressed into the CM and are not a serviceable part (that’s why the dealer will replace the entire CM to fix the worn-out OEM bushing) and as many have found out, a DIY fix is very difficult because it’s really hard to remove the old bushing because of the way the metal sleeve is pressed/fused into the bushing and into the hole in the CM AND the bushings in the Suspension.com kit are not the proper size and will NOT work without further modification. Here's a pic from the bottom of the OEM CM with the original bushing & sleeve still in it.
Dwaine decided to take the keyed head off the OEM sleeve (that is pressed onto the thin OEM internal metal sleeve), machine the new thicker sleeve to accept the OEM keyed head and then tack welded them together for even more strength. The new sleeve with the welded on keyed head is on the bottom left corner of this pic.
He then machined the top and bottom bushings for proper fit (the smaller one is the bottom bushing that goes on the underside of the CM). NOTE: All future ScorpWorks bushings and CMs will come with a red bushing instead of black!
He then put the top bushing in place, then the bottom bushing, then the spacer washer that he fabricated.
Then,pressed them together.
After that, he fabricated a UCP tab and welded it onto the CM. All #2 CMs will come with the UCP tab already welded on. We removed the old CM and replaced it with the new one in less than 20 minutes and used the OEM bolt, captive nut on top & the OEM concave washer that goes onthe bottom side of the CM in the OEM configuration sits open so that only the part of the washer rests against the OEM sleeve. The top height of the ScorpWorks bushing matches exactly, the top height of the OEM “floating” bushing design so that the OEM driveline angles remain at the OEM specs.
Pic of OEM bushing height.
Pic of new ScorpWorks bushing height.
Great job Dwaine and thank you for making these for us. :cheers:
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- Messages
- 10,672
- Location
- Scottsdale
Wow! That's so incredible, I'm stoked that we may now have a permanent fix. To clarify on the "Lifetime Warranty" - that's for the bushing itself, right? It excludes the bolt, sleeve, crossmember. etc.itself since those are re-purposed parts?
I was blown away by how badly yours broke a few weeks ago when it rendered your truck undriveable.
I was blown away by how badly yours broke a few weeks ago when it rendered your truck undriveable.
Alex,
You are correct & thanks for the clarification. The "Lifetime Warranty" will cover the bushing, ScorpWorks-supplied washer, internal sleeve w/the keyed head and the labor to press-fit/preload it back onto the CM. It excludes the CM front diff bolt, nut, concave washer (essentially all the OEM front diff mounting hardware) & the crossmember itself - since those are, as you say, re-purposed parts. Not a bad deal, since it covers the main part that has proven to be a recurring H3 problem subjest to well-documented premature failure.
I still have no idea how I could have sheared off the bolt that secures the front diff to the cross member, as that is one big bolt & appears to be well-protected by the splash/skid plate - I'd have to guess it was the result of a lot of torque & extreme weight/force applied to it at the same time!
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Sounds like a result of too much fun!
Great job guys. "always seek out those with higher knowledge" I have a spare one in good shape. When it's time though I will be in touch. The one on the Alpha is still in good shape.
When the one on the I-5 went they told me they had to return that to GM for warranty credit, I tried.
Great job guys. "always seek out those with higher knowledge" I have a spare one in good shape. When it's time though I will be in touch. The one on the Alpha is still in good shape.
When the one on the I-5 went they told me they had to return that to GM for warranty credit, I tried.
gbrock1031
Probationary Member
- Messages
- 3
- Location
- Montrose, CA
I could really use a new cross member with the new bushing set up. I have a 2006 H3. How do I go about ordering one and sending in my core? What is the turn around time? Cost? etc? Thank you! What a great fix.
H32NV
Well-Known Member
- Messages
- 322
- Location
- Golden, CO
front diff crossmember bushing redux. ver. 3.0
ohhh I got somethin for you all!
My before pictures look much like alrock's. But the after. Whoa buddy. 1/4" Plate, a hydraulic tube bender, Mig Welder, grinder, and a urethane bushing kit. I ended up flipping the vertical mounted bolt into a horizontal mount bolt, and to do it I cut and welded-in some steel tubing horizontally through the cross member, press-fit a urethane bushing, beefed up everywhere...now im just sorting out how to mount the original UCP. Pics coming!
ohhh I got somethin for you all!
My before pictures look much like alrock's. But the after. Whoa buddy. 1/4" Plate, a hydraulic tube bender, Mig Welder, grinder, and a urethane bushing kit. I ended up flipping the vertical mounted bolt into a horizontal mount bolt, and to do it I cut and welded-in some steel tubing horizontally through the cross member, press-fit a urethane bushing, beefed up everywhere...now im just sorting out how to mount the original UCP. Pics coming!
- Messages
- 10,529
- Location
- Central Texas
Great job guys. Zach, thanks for stepping up!
FYI, here is a pic I took of the ScorpWorks CM bushing fix that Dwaine put on Alrocks CM #1 back in early November 2011 and what it looks like after about 4 months of use (onroad & about 5 days of challenging offroad trail rides).
The bushing looks brand new and doesn't look like it's moved or worn at all!
The bushing looks brand new and doesn't look like it's moved or worn at all!
H32NV
Well-Known Member
- Messages
- 322
- Location
- Golden, CO
I took mine in under powertrain warranty, and they would not cover the CV joint boot, or the CM. So I just did it myself. I have had this covered before, and I called GM, it seemed like I was talking to a new recruit over in a foreign country, they said the same thing, CV boots and the CM arent covered under GM's powertrain warranty...
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- 10,672
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- Scottsdale
I've had my CV boots covered under powertrain warranty . Agree that they won't cover the crossmember. (As for CVs, I'm talking both the propshaft (whole unit) and the halfshafts (boots only) as both have been replaced under warranty.
. Agree that they won't cover the crossmember. (As for CVs, I'm talking both the propshaft (whole unit) and the halfshafts (boots only) as both have been replaced under warranty.
PreferredChassisFab
Yosemite Sam
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- 168
- Location
- Tucson, AZ
Polyurethane material for new bushings just arrived and it is RED.