H3 alpha non adventure rear locker install questions

[ABNTROOP]

So, I doubt I'm the first person to tread this ground, but I'd like to install a rear locker on my rig, and I'd like it to be OEM, I've found the locker itself, and the replacement bezel piece with the added rear locker button, any idea on the wiring harness, plug ends, 12V relay? I'd just like to avoid having obviously aftermarket buttons, and since I'm already reaching up there to change other ****, OEM suits me.

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

the one thing I HATE about my H3 Alpha Adventure is that stupid rear locker. Hmmmm... could I say that any clearer? Here's why, the computer only allows the rear locker to be engaged in 4 lo and under 30 mph - which is awesome wherever they designed this rig. In the PNW where we have this thing called "mud", all wheels spinning is what gets you through. And don't start about traction control - it stops at 5 mph... then it burns up your brakes.

In short, a switch would be awesome so that the driver (yeah, I hate nannies) can decide how and how much to risk.

But I digress, why not an ARB? as a benefit you get an air compressor with the install.

Thanks, though, you reminded me to ask my mechanic friend at the Hummer (now Cadillac) dealership what wire to cut to allow full-time rear locker.

 

[alrock]

I don't know if it can be done as I believe that panel ties into the BCM and its programming.

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

I don't know if it can be done as I believe that panel ties into the BCM and its programming.

You may, very well, be right; however, I'm just starting to get irritated enough to create the code to crack the BCM - or I should say, hire someone to do so... the idea that GM or anyone can tell me after the warranty expires what I can or cannot do with non-emissions related stuff just rubs me the wrong way...
they want to save themselves warranty repair, that's fine. But the moment the warranty is done, they don't get a say in how I use or modify my vehicle - and I suspect that I'm not the only person who feels that way. E.g. you don't want blondstar; you should be able to absolutely end any of its ability to enter your car's systems. Don't want Big Brother checking the black box (part of the airbags), you should be able to tell it to get stuffed.

 

[2010H3TAlpha]

You may, very well, be right; however, I'm just starting to get irritated enough to create the code to crack the BCM - or I should say, hire someone to do so... the idea that GM or anyone can tell me after the warranty expires what I can or cannot do with non-emissions related stuff just rubs me the wrong way...
they want to save themselves warranty repair, that's fine. But the moment the warranty is done, they don't get a say in how I use or modify my vehicle - and I suspect that I'm not the only person who feels that way. E.g. you don't want blondstar; you should be able to absolutely end any of its ability to enter your car's systems. Don't want Big Brother checking the black box (part of the airbags), you should be able to tell it to get stuffed.

It was so easy with the Tacomas back when I had one, cut a wire, locker anytime in the sand/mud/etc! Let me know if you figure something out, I would like this myself.

 

[Kyle]

I thought all you had to do was run your own switch and wires to the rear locker and then add a resistor to the oem wires so it thinks there something still there so it doesn't throw a code. Then use the new switch to turn the locker on and off as you please!

 

[ABNTROOP]

I guess I'll simplify and just settle for wiring this e-locker up separate and still swapping out the bezel so I can use that switch independently. As long as it looks stock, I'm game.

 

[ReconH3]

I thought all you had to do was run your own switch and wires to the rear locker and then add a resistor to the oem wires so it thinks there something still there so it doesn't throw a code. Then use the new switch to turn the locker on and off as you please!

What he said. Just run a new switch independently to the locker. I don't know if the resistor is necessary but I just spliced the wires together, and it got rid of error code.


"Ex Umbris Venimus"

 

[f5moab]

Not sure why you would need a resistor. As for the switch, using the factory switch could prove to be difficult and a pain since when pushed in it signals the TCCM via the circuit board internal to the switch assembly.

 

[ABNTROOP]

Even if the BCM isn't programmed (I'm assuming it has to be) to accept that certain button since I would be swapping that button cluster out? Not even sure what my system will think with a new set of inputs or if it will recognize them. Haven't looked at the back of that set to see of each one is a separate plug, or of its one master plug that hooks into the back of that board. If so, I may have a different connector with less pins or some other scenario to deal with?

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

looks like I need to spend some quality time with a wiring diagram - seems to me that moving the "in" wire to the BCM to the "out" wire from the BCM is all that would needed to completely bypass the system... then connect the two wires together so the computer can shake it's own hand...

before this discussion, I was going to put an e-locker in the front, then run the wires from the rear to the front.... and replace the rear with a real locker like a tru-track or detroit locker

 

[f5moab]

Take the BCM out of the equation, it has nothing to do with the switch assembly. (The BCM supplies vehicle condition information such as speed to the Transfer Case Control Module; and will store any trouble codes issued by the TCCM.)

The switch assembly has only ONE connector. It is a 16-pin connector with the following pinouts:
1 4 LO LOCK Indicator Control

2 Seat Belt Indicator Control

3 Passenger Air Bag On Indicator Control

4 Not Used

5 Ignition Voltage

6 Passenger Air Bag Off Indicator Control

7 Ignition Voltage

8 Differential Lock Indicator Control

9 4 HI LOCK Indicator Control

10 Neutral Indicator Control

11 4 HI Indicator Control

12 Instrument Panel Lamps Dimmer Switch Signal

13 Ground

14 Traction Control Switch Signal

15 Switch Signal

16 5-Volt Reference

Notice that pin 15 is "switch signal" and that is the switch signals for all the 4x4/locker buttons; 4HI, 4HI LOCK, 4LO Lock, Neutral, rear locker (if equipped).

Each signal sends a unique voltage signal to the TCCM; and this unique signal is deciphered by the TCCM to determine what mode was requested by the driver....

I'm not sure if the TCCM is unique for each application; somewhere in the back of my mind I believe it is since I do not remember a category in the Tech 2 for programming the TCCM. (Maybe someone can step in and answer that, it's been 5 years for me since I last screwed around with a Tech 2.) If it can be programmed, then added the circuits to the rear locker solenoid would not be difficult. In this case, the BCM would also most likely need a new program (again not sure) to make sure the TCCM is fed the correct data from the BCM and the BCM understands what to do with any additional info (locker on/off) from the TCCM.

It is not as easy as it sounds to use the original switch assembly. Honestly, adding a simple on/off switch with a relay (relay is probably not necessary, but I like relays and feel they make the circuit more stable and safer) would make this very simple. I fusing a relay, you could even get one of those light accessory switches that fit into the bottom of the center i/P trim panel; unless they are already used.

 

[ABNTROOP]

Yep, those holes are already filled, so I guess I'll leave we'll enough alone and see about finding a switch I like, and a location I like for it.

 

[f5moab]

TCCM wiring

4x4 Switch Assm wiring:

Rear locker switch wiring:

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

hmmmm.... good information - is it different voltages or different signals ala modular wiring harness that's all the rage with the high-end hot rod builders?

 

[alrock]

Okay, so I was wrong about the BCM. Geez, first time I've been wrong (in the past few minutes).

Anyway, my locker switch is in one of the blanks normally used for roof/grill lights, to the left of the 12V accessory outlets

 

[zackcrum]

So did anyone figure out how to wire the rear locker for use in other than 4lo?