Daily driving H1?

[3Hummers]

That is a pretty old thread and EXH1X5 is an idiot. He clearly does not know what he is talking about. I prefer the older H1s because they are all mechanical and don't have the electrical issues that later models have. Far simpler machines for anyone to work on. What is simpler than a 6.2 or 6.5 NA diesel matched to a TH400 of 4L80 tranny? GM put millions of them out there in vans, suburbans, trucks, etc The older AC units are hard to replace now but that is it.

 

[06 H3]

I don't think I ever heard 3hummers call someone an idiot...so if he says they are I'm sure they are! lol

 

[Kurt]

I'm with David, the older ones were the best for reliability, even the dealer techs said since fuel injection came into play, the majority of H1 tow ins were usually due to the fuel system/PMD and related sensors

If I had my time back I would have gotten an 1992-1996 NA. But that's all water under the bridge now

 

[3Hummers]

I do still have my mint 98 Kurt. So far I have not had any issues with it except the #8 cylinder and a heater core replacement. For being 25 miles off paved roads, climbing ledges, etc I will be in my 92.

 

[Paranormal]

As a newbie H1 owner, I can tell you that those numbers are astronomical, almost paranormal...LOL
It has been two months since I purchased my H1 and I have performed all the maintenance, A,B,C plus more and it was a few hundred dollars. I relocated my PMD just in case, cleaned my battery terminals due to an unexpected electrical issue. I thought I needed a new right front halfshaft so I ordered one from Dave (HPG). After taking the access cover off to access the 9/16 bolt that holds the shaft in place, I noticed that it had backed out. I tighten it and no more halfshaft noise. Thankfully, HPG took the shaft back. I then proceeded to remove all the wheels off, change the gear hub oil and tighten all the bolts. What I' am trying to say is, if you buy a truck that you know needs work, yes, get ready to pay for the work if you cannot do it yourself. Maintenance is not much more than any other truck, you don't have to change the gear hub oil and differential oil constantly. If you maintain your truck there will be less of a chance for things to break. Two things I had to repair were my CTIS tees and my Speed sensor, both items cost less than $100. The rest of the stuff like my Rhino tire carrier, spare tire and PMD relocating kit were extras but did not need to do right away.

 

[GreatDaneHummer]

Is this a reasonable price for this H1?

https://www.carsforsale.com/vehicle/details/19050907

 

[3Hummers]

Wheels and tires need to be replaced. Any flex at all and you will be cracking the hood. Looks like it needs some front end work. Low mileage H1s are getting really hard to come by. Hubbard is a quality seller. Truck is likely in good condition but not enough pictures. They also don't sell things cheap. With a brushguard and correct tires and wheels that is a fair price for a 2002 wagon with low miles. To put the correct items back on would cost 6-7K. I did not see any under carriage or interior shots. Likely Hubbard has it well detailed.

 

[GreatDaneHummer]

Would a 2" lift take care of the clearance issues with the tires or is it more the pushed out offset that is a no no on the H1?

 

[3Hummers]

I am not a fan of the offset. A lift would help the clearance issues but a suspension lift would give you a really crappy ride. You could do a body lift and get better results. Look at the front tires, I would want that checked out. 2002 heavy duty brushguards used to be 600-700. I bought a set of Alpha wheels( same two piece Hutchisons that this truck should have with a different finish ) new Toyos and new lighter AMG beadlocks installed and had about $7200.00 in them not too long ago. You can buy a takeoff set for 4-6K with 50-70% tires on them. I would use that as a negotiating tool. The usually have multiple H1s so they might be able to swap a set from another truck.

 

[Paranormal]

The truck, for being a 2002 with all the after market add ons is actually a good price. Hubbard usually sells H1s on the higher end of the price range, surprised about this one. Front end needs attention, the wheels are pointing in opposite direction. The offset is wrong, additional stress on the suspension/steering. H1 is a heavy truck and not all wheels are made for it. CTIS has been disconnected because of the wheels, probably expect leaks in the future if you decide to install the right wheels but you can always not use it. I like the interior, looks sharp. I prefer a bone stock, unmolested truck. Even though I like most of those add ons, I rather do them myself so I know that it was done properly and I would know where to look for problems. If you like the way the truck looks, I think it is a very good deal. Buying all that stuff that is on it will cost you a few grand. If you are planning on correcting what 3 Hummers and I mentioned, it is also going to cost you a few grand. Comparing it to my 02 wagon, I paid 75k with 32K miles, bone stock. All I had to do was take the black paint off the wheels that the dealer installed to cover up the bad clear coat. After a week of hard labor, my wheels look brand new. Good luck with the hunt!

 

[Kurt]

I never did get why places would swap out the 17" 2 piece wheels with cheaper big rims. I know a few places that do it keep the originals for that exact reason. It's so expensive to replace it kills the value.

On the other hand you can get a set of cepeks for around 1600 + another 1200 for the tires. You'd need CTIS lines and shields so that's another 600 on top of that. They may have the OEM stuff kicking around.

 

[GreatDaneHummer]

Is there a way to buy brand new OEM wheels?

 

[Expendable]

Is there a way to buy brand new OEM wheels?

Not cheap. comes to about $2000 per wheel.

http://www.hummerpartsguy.com/WHEEL-ALUMINUM-2-PIECE-1700-NEW_p_7055.html
http://www.hummerpartsguy.com/WHEEL-ALUMINUM-2-PIECE-1700-NEW-_p_6575.html

 

[GreatDaneHummer]

No joke, would need to spend $12k to get the 6 I would want, then another $500 per tire so $15k for a set of 6 ouch.

 

[Kurt]

You used to get blemished wheels for half off.. that was a little secret but I think that P/N has been exhausted a few years back.

Hutchinson was surprised at what AMG marked up the wheels for... if they sold them direct you would get them for 400-500$.

Here is a similar wheel for the H2 and 8 lug ford/dodge/gm diesel trucks.

http://www.rockmonsterwheels.com/products.php?product=gmtruckshd

It's a close enough fit for the H1, I'm tempted to try it, the offset would be slightly off like running H2 wheels on an H1.

 

[GreatDaneHummer]

For that kind of money just get ahold of Stazworks and have them build you custom made double beadlock wheels or use some of their actual heavy duty military wheels remade?

 

[Paranormal]

Look on Ebay for wheels. There are always people selling different kind of stock wheels for the H1.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hummer-H1-2...ash=item236ab6d43e:g:GfkAAOSwq7dXFgyw&vxp=mtr

 

[Expendable]

For that kind of money just get ahold of Stazworks and have them build you custom made double beadlock wheels or use some of their actual heavy duty military wheels remade?

just buy used (takeoffs) or get Cepek wheels. only aftermarket wheels approved for use on the H1. proper offset, load rating, etc. about 500 each new, also depends on the options. comes in 17" and 18" sizes. couple of different designs. 8 hole or 12 spoke design. regular, simulated beadlock and even beadlock avail.

http://hummerproducts.com/hummer-wheels.asp#&panel1-1&panel2-1

http://www.ebay.com/itm/H1-Hummer-Wheels-/230373123157

 

[3Hummers]

That eBay set is rough but that is the idea. Those old MTRs have been out of production a long time and the production dates will likely be 7-8 years old.

 

[GreatDaneHummer]

I would never run MTR's anyways. I favor Mickey Thompson Baja Claw TTC tires now. They are just too good off road and make me smile everytime I look at them.

 

[Kurt]

For that kind of money just get ahold of Stazworks and have them build you custom made double beadlock wheels or use some of their actual heavy duty military wheels remade?

Rockmonster is Hutchinson, so you're getting the "other" version of the OEM 20 bolt 2 piece wheels but for the H2/Ford/Dodge 8 lug trucks. That and they're 17-18" options and aluminum.

If I wanted 16.5" steel wheels I'd just get another set of 24 bolt wheels and hope to find one that is true

 

[3Hummers]

I haven't had good luck with Goodyear tires over 35". I really liked our Kevlar MTRs in 35" for the H3. I went with KM2s on replacement because I couldn't find a full set of the MTRs when I needed them. Anything over 35" and I wld be eluctant to go Goodyea.

 

[GreatDaneHummer]

I do like the Nitto Mud Grapplers lately... They just look so cool

 

[Mb30sdl]

If you want better sidewall protection go with Toyos open country, similar tread but not as soft and higher sidewall rating.

 

[3Hummers]

I have two sets of the Toyos on my H1s. Great tires.