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Bad battery terminals?

06 H3

a.k.a. "The Jackal"
Messages
9,496
Location
Meridian, ID
What can these symptoms be? Cbetts mentioned battery terminals last week at bishop. Whenever I start the H3 it will randomly not start. It tries to turn over but it acts like the battery is dead but then I go to start it again and it starts up rightb. Then it will be fine for weeks then it will do that again. At bishop I got some random 4WD service and stabilitrac system fail on the DIC. No issues, drove normal. Id turn it off and turn the car back on and the messages were gone. Then I left bishop and stopped for gas. I go to start it and it seems like a dead battery, doesnt even turn over...The key was locked into the ignition then I go to pop to the hood to jump it with my battery jumper box (very useful. Can jump your car with no other vehicle) and when I popped the hood I hear all the electrical starting to work. Hop back in the car and starts up on the first time. That never happened again until tonight(a week later) same exact scenario. Popped the hood to jump it and the electrical kicked on. Is this the battery terminals? I am just shy of 80k on an 06 H3 and have the stock terminals. Are all these issues related? I have luckily never had electrical issues before and have always had the H3 start on the first turn over and want to keep it that way...any advice would be great.
 

M22KLARS

Unsafe At Any Speed
Messages
2,315
Location
Minnesota
If you have the stock terminals that's where I would start. Ditch them and get a nice set from RidgeDemon. Upgrading your factory terminals on these H3's is one of the best mods you can make.
 

06 H3

a.k.a. "The Jackal"
Messages
9,496
Location
Meridian, ID
I will email him now, Hopefully that cures it...I will keep this thread updated on if it continues when I get the terminals. Any other ideas on what it could be feel free to post up
 

H3-ING

AdventureTime
Messages
156
Location
Newport Heights
X2
go with the Tsunamis from RidgeDemon:cool:

bat.jpg
 

f5moab

Mr. Beretta
Messages
1,997
Location
In hiding.....
Another option is to go to a RV store (or a good parts store, I got mine at Checkers) and get the RV battery cables that are crimped onto the wires. These RV type posts have an extra post for installing accessories such as lights, winches, etc.
 

06 H3

a.k.a. "The Jackal"
Messages
9,496
Location
Meridian, ID
I have had the exact same problems.

Can someone post a how-to.

I'm a little nervous about cutting off my stock terminals.

Atleast im not alone with this issue. I ordered the tsunamis from brodie last night. There is a how to he posted up recently. Let me get the link.

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk
 

06 H3

a.k.a. "The Jackal"
Messages
9,496
Location
Meridian, ID
Another option is to go to a RV store (or a good parts store, I got mine at Checkers) and get the RV battery cables that are crimped onto the wires. These RV type posts have an extra post for installing accessories such as lights, winches, etc.

Didn't think about that. Already ordered my tsunamis but im not too worried everyone loves them. Ill just have to use a distribution block instead of having that extra post

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk
 

f5moab

Mr. Beretta
Messages
1,997
Location
In hiding.....
Not much to it. Jus get a big pair of snippers and go at it. (Make sure to disconnect first:))

If you get the crimp on style, the auto parts store usually has a crimper tool to use. I actually did mine in about five minutes in the Checker parking lot. Helps to have two people, one to hold the wires into the connectror, and one to work the crimp tool, but not necessary.

Not sure on the other type.
 

f5moab

Mr. Beretta
Messages
1,997
Location
In hiding.....
Nothing wrong with the Tsunamis, just offered a less expensive, and in my opinion, just as good of connector. Plus it has the nice accessory studs on each terminal.

Hell, tin foil might be better than the factory terminals.
 

05Mudiak

Well-Known Member
Messages
731
Location
Lake Charles, LA
Ahh crap thats what I was supose to do before I left:mad:. man thanks for posting this to remeind me of what I forgot to do. lol Well I have new terminals from Ridge Demon sitting at the house and was supose to swap them out but I totaly forgot hopefully the factory ones hang in there until I get back. ugh.
 

06 H3

a.k.a. "The Jackal"
Messages
9,496
Location
Meridian, ID
UPDATE: I was having issues with start up. Not a dead battery but it would act like the terminals werent connected until I waited or popped the hood and wiggled em around. I threw on the tsunami terminals and starts right up everytime! Easy Fix and can handle running alot to the battery. Highly recommended and will get a tsunami distribution block sometime soon. Thanks again Brodie!
 

alrock

El Diablo
Staff member
Messages
10,667
Location
Scottsdale
Don't have any opinions to offer yet. Haven't upgraded my terminals but I need to as the top of the post is stripped out, meaning I can't secure any accessory wires to it.
 

alrock

El Diablo
Staff member
Messages
10,667
Location
Scottsdale
I just installed the Scosche battery terminal on the positive side tonight. I picked it up for $10 from Amazon. http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000KIV23Q/ref=pe_175190_21431760_cs_sce_dp_1

Nice easy install. The Scosche terminal has four inputs which seemed to work well as the H3 harness has three wires and I have a fourth wire that goes to a distribution block for my accessories. I imagine you could bundle all three wires into the largest hole but it seems that it could be a bit squirmy.

The plastic cover doesn't go on well if the battery cover is in place so you may want to consider ditching the battery cover if you haven't done so already. The hex screws all seemed to make a nice tight connection to the battery and to each wire.

i-jsFQRcd-L.jpg


i-msJPwSt-L.jpg


i-dF5JbLZ-L.jpg


The truck started after this install so I must not have screwed things up
 
D

Dennis

Guest
Rock..thanks for posting that..That was what I posted below almost exactly like yours...Mine are in the mail to me, I paid $18.98 for two

AU016-tem3-1.jpg



My question is this to the open forum...

I noticed alrock didn't solder up the ends before he insterted his cable ends, he just left them bare...My question is this...Would it be better to solder up the end (tin) before sticking them into the terminal holes and screwing down the set screws or leave them Raw bar copper ends like alrock did?
 

M22KLARS

Unsafe At Any Speed
Messages
2,315
Location
Minnesota
Nice Alex!

My question is related to what Dennis asked... Will the ends get corroded faster all naked like that?
 

alrock

El Diablo
Staff member
Messages
10,667
Location
Scottsdale
Well, corrosion really isn't an issue here so I don't know. Would solder stand up to the clamping of the hex screws? I think I would use dielectric grease to seal the holes and thus the ends of the cables. It's what I had previously used on semi-exposed relays to keep them from corroding.

(For the uninitiated, dielectric grease is non-conducting but it should cause any issues with conductivity as the connections between the surfaces should still be sufficient.)

Hmm, I think I may need to do this tomorrow.
 

Hunner

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,334
Location
Arkansas
Is it possible all those wires not crushed by the allen head screw on either side of it, not under pressure to make contact, effectively reduces the gauge of wire transmitting voltage and amps?
 

alrock

El Diablo
Staff member
Messages
10,667
Location
Scottsdale
Hunner, I certainly am not enough of an electrical engineer to know but aren't all of the non-crushed wires still in contact with the other wires? And there's still a lot of wire making contact with the terminal surface. If we look at the previous setup there were three wires in the one crimped connection, meaning about 1/3-2/3 of any given wire had direct contact with the terminal surface.

No issues with the first use of the truck but time (or someone with better electrical knowledge, like you) will tell.
 

theBroken

Well-Known Member
Messages
143
Location
Michigan
Is it possible all those wires not crushed by the allen head screw on either side of it, not under pressure to make contact, effectively reduces the gauge of wire transmitting voltage and amps?

The bottom of that allen bolt is shaped like the end of a bullet but it has little teeth on the tip. The allen bolt also has a divot in the tip like a hollow point bullet. As it turns in it frays out the cable strands. The cavity the cable inserts into is shaped like an ellipse. As the bolt pushes into the strands it pulls them apart and spreads them up the back and side walls of the cavity. When the side walls get filled up with cable strands it then starts to put pressure onto the bottom of the cavity clamping the rest of the cable. So it's not just making contact where it's tightened down but it's contacting each surface inside including the bolt itself.
 
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