H3 Any h3 engine gurus?

[med]

Have a 2006 h3 adventure w/ 180,xxx miles. I had a check engine light on and before I could get it checked the transmission took a dump. Lost 3-4 so I got it rebuilt. This is the kickoff of my recent adventure..lol. So got it back and it would barely run so to the mechanic we go. Oxygen sensor, crankshaft sensor, and camshaft actuator replaced. They changed the oil and said it was very dirty and a bit low. I had gone over my change mileage but not by much. Anyhow they said there was metal in the oil. Then basically said they couldn't fix it. It starts and runs great when cold, no banging or knocking. Even when at operating temp going down the road it runs great. But the bastard will not idle when it warms up. It'll drop rpms and then fall on its face. He told me there wasn't enough oil pressure to operate the actuator and that causes it to die. Then pretty much said the motor was junk... even tho there are no noises, banging etc. It just won't idle at operating temps. Anyone ever had this issue? I sure don't want to spring for a new motor. I'm going to try to get a second opinion next week. I'm 1800 in the hole at this moment and still have a ride that's broke. No check engine light or codes at all. Thx

Also the h3 had set up about a yr before I bought it. The lady that had it was a traveling nurse. Gas got high so she parked it and bought another ride. One last thing the temp gauge is also registering much cooler than before. It used to register about 3/4 of the way up when at operating temp, now the gauge is staying right at the halfway mark between high and low.


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[4speedfunk]

First, check battery cables and ground straps.
Second, check for a vacuum leak (use a cigarette or incense stick), around the intake hose. Intake manifold bolts are know to simply fall out.
Third, hook it up to a diagnostic machine (not a cheap hand held), and check to see if any parameters are way off. This can help track down a problem.
Also, do a compression test while it's warm. This will tell you if it's the dreaded head gasket issue.


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[mjferencak]

Clean your throttle body

 

[med]

Clean your throttle body

I thought about that but figured surely the shop that worked on it had done that (I know what happens when you assume..lol). Excluding that thought though, wouldn't a dirty throttle body/map sensor cause an issue all of the time? It runs great until the motor warms. It's when the motor has been running 5-10 minutes that the idle issue occurs.


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[Happy Hummer]

I'd start by cleaning throttle body, mass air flow sensor, check small black hose under air resonator, do a comprehensive leak down test and compression test.

 

[mjferencak]

I was running down the interstate one morning and lost complete power going over a bridge. As I slowed to 20mph it regained power. Got home turned it off and cranked it again later on and it idled super rough then coughed and idled fine. Thought it was coils so I bought new ones. Installed them and still had a rough idle. Got on here and some told me to clean the throttle body. It was super dirty and once I did it ran great. It gets cleaned ever three months. Best of luck to you.

 

[med]

I pulled the vent hose from the air box and used a flashlight to check the tb and it was clean. Guess the mechanic did it after all. I had to carry it back to the transmission shop 3x because it wasn't fixed. . I took it in because it would drop out of 3rd into 2nd..sometimes. Sometimes it wouldn't shift into 3rd. Sometimes it shifted perfectly. It was always random. Never quit shifting right and stayed that way. Told the shop this and they decided it was the clutches and rebuilt it. Picked it up after it was "fixed" and it wouldn't go into 3rd. Carried it back. They were going to check a wiring harness and called later that day and said it was good to go. Picked it up late Friday after hours and it would barely run. Finally limped home. Unhooked the battery for bout an hour and let the computer reset. Ran great... but the check engine light came back. Went to get a pizza a couple days later and on the way home the transmission fell into 2nd and died. Limped it to their shop and sounded like wires arching under it and could smell a burning smell. In a couple days it was supposedly fixed but would not run right so they delivered it to the guy that does our mechanic work and here we are. I trust the mechanic that worked on it as he has a reputable shop and have used him quite a bit in the past. But anybody can be wrong every now and then and I'm not gonna go spend 5k on a new motor because one dude said it was smoked. Transmission shifts out good and motor runs good. But will not idle when it warms up and there is no check lights present. So you see it's been one big ole **** sandwich from the start. I noticed though after getting it from them the 2nd time that my door locks were locking and unlocking by themselves intermittently, with the motor off. Just noticed a few minutes ago after testing with a new battery that my clock was randomly coming on and off erratically with me sitting in the drive with the motor off. I think they may have screwed some wiring up or fried something.


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[4speedfunk]

Battery cables?


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[Mr_Rich]

That sounds like a bigger problem than just battery cables to me. If the truck sat for a year I would suspect rodent damage. Combine that with some possible abrasion and who knows what kind of electrical problem you have to chase. I've had small (rodent) footprints disturbing the dust in my engine compartment in Calif. which is unusual for the area. I haven't detected any chew marks or anything like that on my wiring but it's something to look closely for IMO. I think a critter was just looking for a warm spot to sleep for the night.

 

[Guerrero]

A important thing is....the problem with the motor die at idle....was before or after the transmission rebuild?

In a car and specially in a H3 it is very important not only the car but the person that repairs it. Maybe the transmission shop did something that causes all problems. Is that the case?

 

[amrg]

Before replacing my battery terminals, all doors would lock/unlock suddenly while on the highway! the dash would also die for a split second at the same time.

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[med]

Had a cam shaft sensor light and oxygen sensor light when I carried to the trans shop. Never had an idle issue until they got it. All wiring under the hood looks original. No new tape, no stripped off tape. Looks untouched. I'm guessing there may be a issue with what they did under it. Taking it to a super sharp dude this week and hopefully he can find some answers. All of this started with a trip to the transmission shop. Actually had the original issue occur after I picked it up the first time and the transmission had been rebuilt. So I'm also wondering if it wasn't an electrical issue from the beginning and the rebuild was possibly uncalled for. But hey it's just money right? Smh


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[med]

I think I'm going to change the oil more or less for a flush since some metal was found and having a supposed low oil pressure issue. No lights or warnings tho. Is there a weight that would be better to go back with considering the circumstances? I think the sticker from when the shop changed it says 10w-30.


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[amrg]

Stick with 10w30 and dont go any heavier.
I have done a flush, the oil light came up twice the first 50 miles, im now at 400 miles and the oil light didnt come up again since.
If it stays that way ill do a second flush at 1200 miles and keep monitoring.

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[med]

10-4. I'm having to wait a few days before I can get in with another shop to get a second opinion. Still trying to figure why I haven't got a light or code of the issue is actually low pressure.


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[med]

New interstate battery and oil pressure sensor replaced ( there was oil in the plug). No change. Done spending money until my next shop appointment.


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[Simplelife]

Have you tried taking out the map sensor .. mine did the same cold runs good then warmed up it would stall at every light . I took out the map sensor and just blew air in it and it worked perfect again.

 

[med]

Update*

Got my h3 back. Looks like the motor is just wore out. The guy got it running for now tho. There was a miss in #3. He replaced the plugs and there was a little oil in that plug that had leaked from the valve cover over time. He also drilled a small hole in the butterfly to allow a little more air in and that bumped the idle up just a bit. Did an oil change and it was clean this time, just a small trace of metal. Replaced oil with 50 wt and I'm on the road again. For how long who knows. My initial thought was to sell or trade but I can't stomach the thought of sticking an unsuspecting working man with a ride with a suspect engine. Guess I'll run it til it quits and then do a motor change. Appreciate the remarks and advice. Do most try to find a used motor or drop a new one in?


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[Chimpy]

What exactly was the prognosis that has determined that the engine is "just wore out"? Low compression? Something just seems obviously odd that your problems showed up after the transmission shop did their thing. Anyone can call themselves a mechanic, heck, a person that graduates from medical school with a low "C" average still gets the title of Doctor.

 

[med]

It certainly is strange that this all occurred when the trans went in for a rebuild. Not sure if you've read the complete post but long story short the oil pressure was the issue. When at operating temp it would die and not idle. First mechanic ( both have reputable shops) found what he said to be a large amount of metal when they changed the oil. As posted the 2nd guy just saw trace amounts when he changed it. Apparently there isn't enough pressure to operate some actuator. 1st guy said the engine was done. 2nd guy basically said the same thing but he got it running .

I really like the h3 and plan to keep it. Just trying to form some kind of game plan for the future and what to expect when it dies for good. My last vehicle was a 98 Ford Explorer and it took me 10yrs to put 50k on it. I drive a corolla back and forth to work. So I mainly just run around in the h3 on weekends and during hunting season. If I have to put another engine in and can get it done right, I should be good to go for a good while.


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[amrg]

Did you consider replacing the oil pump first before going up in oil weight?
And why jump to 50 wt? Stock is 10w30 so maybe add a little of 10w40 instead of a big jump?

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[med]

The 50 was his deal. I thought about driving it a bit and draining the 50 and seeing if it would run with the 1040. Like I said I'm no mechanic. I'm trusting these guys know what they're doing. I really don't have another option and hate to just throw parts at it. Is there a way to verify if you have a faulty oil pump? The 2nd guy that looked at it I would assume checked that out. He's a really sharp guy.


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[amrg]

Not a mechanic myself but this is how i am working through the repairs.

First, replace oil sensor and replace oil

* drove 4K without issues. 1k during summer and 3 during the fall/winter/spring. Oil light came back once summer hit hard (115* +)

Second, oil flush and new oil filter

* Drove 800 miles no issues then oil light came back on

Third, another oil flush and new filter

*I am yet to drive the car and see what happens

Next step would be to replace the oil pump. From my research, heavier weight oils would damage our engines(or modern engines) anf its a bandaid for worn out engines. Hope I dont reach that step myself.



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[med]

I've never gotten an oil light or check light regarding the oil pressure.


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[Chimpy]

Well I hope whatever you decide to do, everything works out in your favor. Good luck and keep us posted.