Lifted back to stock

[Maria80386]

So I bought someone else’s lifted H3, CV Boots are leaking, it’s got low mileage 35” tires on it, and some sort of front lift.

How hard ($$$) is it to get rid of the lift or leveling kit? I already know what stock rims are tires are gonna run. I expect to do a radiator soon as well.

What is the Brain Trust’s recommendations on immediate maintenance items and a radiator? This young pup 2008 hasn’t had her 50,000 mile service yet.

I’ll post pics of what I see as the lift once the sun comes out again.

 

[alrock]

Congrats on the new to you H3.

Yes, let's see what constitutes that lift. It's likely torsion bar keys and bump stop extenders. If you don't know where the torsion bar keys are, follow the long rod (the torsion bar) coming out of the back of the lower control arm of the front suspension. At the aft end of the torsion bar, it goes into a "key" that's held in place with a large bolt. Easy to remove, but you'll need to get the original style keys.

Radiator - OEM ones are not that much more than standard aftermarket and they are built better. Yes, people have issues with them but often closer to 100,000 miles. The cheap ones I've had fail earlier, and I haven't seen the benefit of a $600 radiator for my H3.

Change all fluids: oil, front and rear diffs, transfer case, transmission (at least a drop and fill with new filter), coolant, brake fluid, power steering fluid. New spark plugs (AC Delcos are on sale at rockauto.com and you can get a $3 per plug rebate on iridiums from AC Delco). New serpentine belt. Maybe new fan clutch.

New air filter. Pull off air box on top of engine (wait, is this a V8 or I5) and assuming it's an I5, check the short rubber hose at the back end that goes from the valve cover to the airbox (do this during spark plug change). If that hose is super-soft and pliable (or super hard), replace it.

Check the radiator hoses for pliability and wear. Check water pump for excess play and/or leaks. Check front wheel hubs for excess play.

CV boots - is it a tiny leak in the middle of the boot? Clean it with brake cleaner and seal with RTV. If replacing, I highly recommend OEM but they are much more expensive than aftermarket. Put in new axle seals (OEM) at the same time. It's typically easier now to replace the CV axle than just the boot.

Depending on your comfort with wrenching, most of this could be done in your driveway. If not, be careful as I just gave a HUGE list of things to check and a shop could take you deep.

Your blinker fluid and muffler bearings are probably fine

 

[H3Hummer]

well congrats for that lucky find, not even 50k service, wow. I think Alrock did answer all your questions

 

[Maria80386]

Any leads on shops in the Phoenix/Scottsdale area? I’m up in Fountain Hills and while I know the recommended steps are mostly easy, I’m waiting for a few bones to knit before I can twist wrenches.

This nifty Alpha find had already run out of blinker fluid, I’m sourcing a can of that today. Loud unhappy noises from the CV joint says I’ll be bring up the cost of ownership a bit and thinning out my wallet. Yay, weight loos, but in the wrong area.

Any ideas on what kind of a front lift I’m dealing with:

 

[Jeepwalker]

It's probably going to need all the usual stuff. If not now, then soon. That's part of buying an older vehicle: UCA, Other suspension/steering joints, Rear end seals (??), sunroof seal, water pump, radiator, steering rack bushings, CV shafts, U-joints, Wheel bearings/hubs, front drive shaft, steering intermediate shaft, etc. There's a long list of H3 items that don't last 200k. That's ok if it needs those things. Then you'll be good to go for a long time once they're replaced. Just use good quality components, like Delco. So many people come back and complain on the forum that china-brand xyz failed in no time...just dig deep & do it right the first time.

and while yer at it, I'd have a compression and oil pressure test done. Burnt valves in the center cylinders are fairly common. Might as well get all that stuff figured out from the get-go. Don't go playing home chemist and using thick oil. These have cylinder oil squirters and thick oil isn't the way to go on these Atlas engines. Overall, sounds like a nice truck. Good luck.

 

[Jeepwalker]

Also, depending on the lift amount (sorry if I missed it), you might be able to take er in to a spring shop and get the leaf springs de-arched. Yeah, that's a thing and it's simple and easy for a spring shop to do. And cheaper than buying new. But if they're certain aftermarket springs, then you might be better off buying new.

What don't you like about your wheels? What are you looking for? You could paint them silver (for now) if black isn't your color. If you do a good job with quality automotive base/clear paint (not spray can), they'll look almost like factory painted rims. I bought a spare (really nice) set of chrome OEM's in great condition off marketplace a couple yrs ago. Set of 5. There are still kids out there who pimp or donk these H3's out, and sell the wheels. I see nice sets of factory H3 wheels come up from time to time that aren't too expensive ...if you bide your time and strike fast when you see a set.

 

[alrock]

Don't go playing home chemist and using thick oil. These have cylinder oil squirters and thick oil isn't the way to go on these Atlas engines.

Wow, you just can't let this idea go, can you? I'm sure you can find another dozen or so threads to post this up into while you're at it, especially considering this one didn't even bring it up as a topic.

 

[alrock]

Any leads on shops in the Phoenix/Scottsdale area? I’m up in Fountain Hills and while I know the recommended steps are mostly easy, I’m waiting for a few bones to knit before I can twist wrenches.

This nifty Alpha find had already run out of blinker fluid, I’m sourcing a can of that today. Loud unhappy noises from the CV joint says I’ll be bring up the cost of ownership a bit and thinning out my wallet. Yay, weight loos, but in the wrong area.

Any ideas on what kind of a front lift I’m dealing with:

I've had good luck at Apex Automotive, Dave Dyer is the owner.

Regarding any lift and the front end: can you measure from the center of the wheel hub to the bottom of the fender and give us that number? Also, turn the wheels to the right and give us a pic of the suspension from behind on the driver's side. I'm curious as to the bump stops. Last, if you can get a picture of the spindle that would be great too.

 

[Maria80386]

What don't you like about your wheels? What are you looking for?

I have to get a running start in order to jump up high enough to get in. Those I play chauffeur to also need to use a small forklift to get in. Other than that, the tires are near new and run great. I’ll be getting those measurements on lunch break.

Thanks Guys! I appreciate the info. This is number 4 for me, and the lowest mileage yet.

 

[Jeepwalker]

Wow, you just can't let this idea go, can you?

Ha ha ...just trying to help a fellow H3-er out . It was one of several recommendations. I'm not stuck on it, but general recommendations was asked about in the original post. They're just recommendations, he'll take them as such, I'm sure. There's a lot written on on other vehicle forums, where Atlas engines were used, and rebuild forums. It used to be a well-discussed topic on Hemi forums too. It's not an insignificant topic IMO.

OP, post a picture of the before/after when you get er de-lifted!

 

[Real4WD]

.

 

[Maria80386]

Regarding any lift and the front end: can you measure from the center of the wheel hub to the bottom of the fender and give us that number:
Front: 25 inches
Rears: 24 inches

Digging deeper, looks like bump stops, both CV joints, and probably both torsion bars and keys need a little remove and replace.

 

[rascole]

Was this a mid west or east coast ride? All that under coating is PITA to work around. I don't see a lift on that, the torsion bars must cranked to the max with that CV angle in the picture and those are 33"s not 35". Post a picture of the rear leaf spring hanger and a side shot of the H3 to show what the stance is. The CV's are easy to replace, the upper control arms should be done while you are at it along with shocks.

 

[650Hawk]

You don't appear to have a "lift" per se. Previous owner likely just cranked up the torsion bolts. Crawl underneath and crank them back down. 23.5" fender lip-to-center of hub is the max that it should be; stock is a bit lower. Then replace the bump stops with new ones; they should just about be touching the LCA at rest, as they are actually designed to be part of the suspension. Those tires are actually only about 33", pretty much the stock height for an Adventure model.

 

[Maria80386]

Nice. Thinking of Rancho shocks. They’re doing great on my other Hummer.

Any ideas on where to find bump stops? I see generic on eBay and the Trail Duty, but the new old stock sites are not listing them.

Pics to follow.

 

[rascole]

I preferred the Trail Duty, firmer and slightly longer so the active suppression is better than stock.

 

[Maria80386]

Apex is happy to help. Bringing her in Saturday for a once-over, maybe a once-over, hard over, and done, driving-wise.

 

[650Hawk]

As for shocks, I like my Fox's, but they are a bit on the stiff side on the road.

 

[Jeepwalker]

OP: Does your H3 have the Adventure Package, or Base? Adventure pkg H3's came with mono-tube shocks from the factory. Mono-tube's pretty sure that's what the Fox shocks are (as are most off-road shocks ...and Bilsteins). I replaced mine (stock height) with OEM Delcos and the vehicle rides good (stock). I mean those Adventure H3's were stiffly sprung anyway when new, but the Delcos didn't make it ride any stiffer than stock. But Fox or Bilsteins would be good too (assuming they fit your end height). Bilsteins would be great and last forever. But be sure to select for the adventure pkg or not, depending on what you're looking for. I've had Bilsteins on other vehicles, but have not tried them on my H3.

 

[H3Hummer]

I put the longer Bilsteins 5100 séries all arround , no issues with those.

 

[Maria80386]

Looks like I have the Bilsteins. They are a nice ride.

Two front half axles, eventually a ball joint or two, some door seals if I can find them, a rear exhaust manifold bolt, and some upper window and rail trim. Lucked out with this.

Thanks Alrock for the recommendation for Apex. He hasn’t started work yet but our mutual inspection of the H3 revealed it is in far better shape than I expected. I think the .10 miles we went off-road during the test drive was the most off-roading this Pavement Princess has seen. Once I’m happy with her mechanically, I’m busting her off-road cherry to the top of the Four Peaks, hopefully before the monsoon hits.